Pete Lewis Posted July 2, 2018 Report Share Posted July 2, 2018 The dizzy being bolted to the block takes on the same temperatures as the block It maybget a bit of air cooling but hardly anything dramatic 74c is Low , 82c is standard for uk and europe . Jiggle pin a small pin with a sort of ball end that sits in a hole in the rim of the stat, to allow air to bleed out on refills The hole is sealed by the ball when no flow amd opens a littlemwith flow and a shut stat A 3mm hole drilled works just as well Yes its also worth popping a hose partly off the heater top hose to just let any air escape Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted July 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2018 (edited) Yes the middle three journals, I don't want to run it too much and ruin another cam Pete would that be the hose on the heater control valve, I forgot to say I'm running Evans Waterless Coolant I've removed the stat at the moment, will the air bleed it's self into the overflow bottle with no stat in Edited July 2, 2018 by Guppy916 update Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 2, 2018 Report Share Posted July 2, 2018 Whatever hose is the highest point just part it a liitle may get some air out, only takes a few seconds Should circulate ok its same as havint the stat fully open When fitted they open close all the time , sort of modulate to control the hot ouput against the cool input They work a lot more than most appreciate . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted July 2, 2018 Report Share Posted July 2, 2018 2 hours ago, Guppy916 said: I've removed the stat at the moment, will the air bleed it's self into the overflow bottle with no stat in I think they don't work well with no stat in - as there is no back pressure - though don't ask me why Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 10 hours ago, Anglefire said: I think they don't work well with no stat in - as there is no back pressure - though don't ask me why If you consider the design of the water pump housing, I could imagine that having no stat fitted might encourage too much of the flow to only circulate round the radiator and pump, without really passing through the block. It wouldn't work well if that were the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 And its a circulator not a pump it need s complete circuit of coolant to work same as central heating pumps etc. And flow , yes it will always take the easiest route Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted July 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Hi guys, Pete no jiggle pin in my stat, just off to my local motor factors for a new 82c stat and gasket, I don't know if I mentioned it to start with, the block has just been bored +20, oil galley plugs removed, one core plug each side of the engine removed, and put into a ultrasonic cleaning tank, when I got it back I flushed it out with the pressure washer, water ways along with the oil ways, then when dry I flushed petrol through the oil ways just to make sure no water was hiding in them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted July 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 new 82c stat with jiggle pin fitted, road test after lunch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted July 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 just bashed these two plugs in and flushed the block through, all clean water coming out, and if I fill it through the hole from the head feed it still flushes out of these two and the front of the block , so I don't think I had a coolant problem, unless the problem is in the head ? although the head has been in the ultrasonic bath, perhaps it's worth popping the head off yet again ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 this is not a cooling problem its a lubrication / oils supply, / no supply /bore and journal size / loading failure the cooling jacket is well above the gallery oil feed , cant see its connected with the failure Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 On the matter of oil supply to the cam... did you by any chance have a spawn-of-the-devil external rocker oil feed fitted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted July 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Oh Mr NonMember yes I did, and with no restrictor I haven't fitted it this time, so I don't know why I'm still getting a chuffing hot dizzy body, is this the start of it happing again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Guppy, is there anyone else with the same engine that could measure the temperature of their Dizzy to see how it compares with yours? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted July 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Hello Mark, I have asked the same question but not had a reply, I should think any Mk3 GT6 will do, if it's got a 2.5 fitted all the better, and possibly a TR6 now to push my luck any body around the Winchester area could pop in for a coffee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 An old work mate does have a Tr6 (and 3a and lr series 2) - I’ll see if I can get hold of him tomorrow and ask him to check. Though I’m not sure how much he drives the 6 as it is totally concourse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Why do you think its not supposed to be hot ???? its hot its bolted to a blasted hot engine being a ally case it might well feel and measure more Its designed to run at engine temperature Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 As Pete says, the original issue was an absence of lubrication to the middle two can bearings. There is no good reason why this should repeat on a completely different block and build unless there is something badly wrong with the oil gallery cleaning technique. I always pull all the gallery plugs and the dizzy drive bush and hand clean them individually with rifle brushes and carb cleaner. The only possible way to "cock-up" in the dizzy drive area is not to correctly set the drive gear end float. Too tight might cause excessive heat in that area and put extra load on the middle two cam bearings but I think the signs would be obvious afterwards. 70 - 90C block temps sounds pretty normal to me. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted July 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 HI Pete because when i went to adjust the dizzy/timing ,it was to hot to handle I had to wear a garden glove, you know the rubber type, it melted the rubber, I just felt that was above too hot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Ha its gloves you need to replace not the dizzy Think you need to relax a bit , smile drive and dont get paranoid its all going to happen again None of us have ever come across that level of local heat ( think hugh might ) Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted July 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Hello Nick I'm happy that the oil ways are clean, I didn't pull the dizzy drive bush but did clean the bore, I dropped the oil pump drive into it, then shimmed the pedestal until I had a 10 thou clearance with the pedestal bolted down, and if you stick a screw driver into the dizzy drive slot you can just feel and see the free play, I don't remember doing this on the first rebuild, could that have been the problem with the first build ? Pete I had to bin them if the wife had seen them, we wouldn't be having this chit chat, they were her new one's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugh Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 After running for a while dizzy will be close to block temp 80-90c too hot to handle and will melt some types of rubber gloves, get hold of an infrared temp gun (non contact type) bet its about block temp if so don't worry, have seen 15 or so cam/bearing failures all with the direct in block type cam and they can generate 150c or so on the block in the cam bearing area due to bearing friction, just check with the temp gun for a few days bet its OK, more revs needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted July 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Hi Hugh, new infrared gun being delivered Monday, your "close to block temp" is that taken from in-between the oil way plugs, "more revs needed" I was only running 1500/2500 for the very first few miles, Thanks Hugh this is now starting to put my mind at rest, is the 150c a normal running temp over the journals, and I take it more revs means it's getting more oil George Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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