Rotoflex Lowering Block Removal

[Gully]

Hi all,

A couple or so years ago the rear spring was replaced on my rotoflex GT6. Knowing the new springs have a habit of giving positive camber, I specified a half-inch lowering block. Over the first 6 months the spring was fitted, the rear gradually lowered to the point where the block could be removed and retain negative camber. I've procrastinated about doing the job for a while, but really should get around to it. My question is how best to go about the removal?

I really don't want to take the spring out completely, so have been mulling over the following approach: 

1. Jack up the rear of the car

2. Remove the spring holding plate and studs from the top of the diff

3. Carefully partially lower the car so the spring lifts sufficiently from the diff to remove the lowering block

4. Jack up the rear again, replace the studs and bolt down the holding plate (ensuring the locating pip locates in the top of the diff)

Will this work? The car has CV shafts in place of the rotoflex couplings, so less force involved there!

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

 Gully 

[JohnD]

Never a good idea to work on the car unless it is securlely suported.  You will have to be under at times - a jack is NOT safe! 

Better, IMHO to put it up on axle stands, then when you want to lift the spring, place the jack - two jacks, far better - under each rear upright and lift.   I'd leave two studs in until the last minute, as guides for the spring

John

[Pete Lewis]

Knowing the cv joints on yours certainly reduced the spring fighting mode of normal rota flex when we did the bearings and hardly needed the chunky lifter bar

I reckon your plan would work bear in mind johns concerns , and may be add a longer stud should the spring need pulling down to meet the diff face

Pete

[Clive]

I don't think that jacking the car up will take all the tension out of the spring,even with the lowering block. But with CV's it is all rather easier than with the rubber rings. You may need to release the spring eye bolts.

And the spacer blocks can be a pig to move. Certainly the 2 times I have tried it a serious whack with a hammer was required. They seem to be a very snug fit into the diff "groove"

[Mjit]

As clive says usually a very snug fit in the diff. and usually the spring's an equally snug fit in the block.  You also have to make sure you have enough vertical lift at the middle of the spring to get the spring locating peg clear of the locating hole in the spacer block.

I can't remember if it's a 1/2" or 3/4" in my Spitfire but as a result of all the above I've always found it's a full strip-down so you can wang around on the spring enough to get things to separate from one-another.

[Gully]

Thanks for the inputs everyone. It hadn't occurred to me that the block itself could be a challenge to remove from the diff - I'd assumed it simply sat there as a spacer. If it's a full strip down it can wait (as it has for the past year or so!) - I don't have a spring lifter and hoped it would be a few hours work on Saturday.

John - thanks for your concerns, but I always use axle stands or ramps if I'm going under the car.

Gully

[Anglefire]

Gully, I have a spring lifter you can borrow - I'm going to be down your way in the next few weeks (Stevenage and Ware) so could drop it in - If you would like it sooner, I can get it to my Sisters at the weekend in Leighton Buzzard. 

[Gully]

2 hours ago, Anglefire said:

Gully, I have a spring lifter you can borrow - I'm going to be down your way in the next few weeks (Stevenage and Ware) so could drop it in - If you would like it sooner, I can get it to my Sisters at the weekend in Leighton Buzzard. 

Many thanks, Mark, but I have access to a lifter from our TSSC Area tool collection - just not got it to hand for this weekend when I was considering doing the work. Really appreciate the offer though - that's what makes this forum and the people on it so valuable.

Gully

[Anglefire]

No problem. 

6 hours ago, Gully said:

that's what makes this forum and the people on it so valuable.

Exactly my thoughts too!

[Pete Lewis]

Two lifters said Zebedee

Visions of a big   boing!!  

Shout if you need any help 

 

Pete

 

[Gully]

Just to close this off, I borrowed the Herts & Beds area's spring lifter and on Sunday stripped the spring out, removed the block and refitted the spring. Supported the rear of the car on axle stands under the chassis and used my trolley jack to support / position the lower wishbones as I removed and then later replaced the spring eye bolts. The lowering block lifted straight off the diff, but needed a couple of firm taps with a hammer to remove from the spring. A stack of block paviors held the spring lifted into the right position to get the spring eye bolts in!

Hardest part of the job was getting the last two new studs into the diff. I double nutted the old ones out and new ones in, but the spring is a tight fit between the rows and needed a little manoeuvring to get the angles right for the threads to pick up. I followed the workshop manual advice of putting the front (nearest to you when looking from the rear of the car) three studs in before the spring and the other three after the spring is in place.

I'm happier with the stance of the car now - camber is great and it no longer looks squat at the rear. Seems more compliant over bumps too, but how much of that is the block removal and how much my dialling the Gaz shocks back one notch I couldn't say.

Thanks for all the inputs,

Gully

 

[JohnD]

Gully,

Well done!  Most satisfying for you to get succh a major job done so smoothly, and so it should be!

BUT, if "Block Paviours" mean what I think they do, the sort of brick that might be laid on your drive, they aren't safe, especially when used in a "stack".

Bricks can break, and if stacked, slip apart.   Fine, just fine for chocking the wheels, but a stout baulk of wood is a better choice.    Keep an eye on skips and at the 'Recycling Depot' for old rafters, railway sleepers (!) etc.    Excuse me, but I'm a committed dumper diver for scrap of all sorts!

John

[Clive]

11 hours ago, Gully said:

 

I'm happier with the stance of the car now - camber is great and it no longer looks squat at the rear. Seems more compliant over bumps too, but how much of that is the block removal and how much my dialling the Gaz shocks back one notch I couldn't say.

Thanks for all the inputs,

Gully

 

Must say it is easy to have the rear shocks set too hard, can make the car feel very skittish and "odd"

An idle thought, but was the rear tracking correct before you removed the block? If it was fitted and tracking not set, it could give odd steering as you would have some toe-out. If you have not yet checked, I would do so. 2 bits of straight wood/metal (I use metal bar as wood is rarely straight!) and a tape measure is all that is required.

[Gully]

6 hours ago, clive said:

Must say it is easy to have the rear shocks set too hard, can make the car feel very skittish and "odd"

An idle thought, but was the rear tracking correct before you removed the block? If it was fitted and tracking not set, it could give odd steering as you would have some toe-out. If you have not yet checked, I would do so. 2 bits of straight wood/metal (I use metal bar as wood is rarely straight!) and a tape measure is all that is required.

The tracking was set when the spring was first fitted and the car then was sitting pretty much as it is now. It's 'settled' over time, so is now back where it was when set up. I've done around 80 miles since removing the block on various types of roads and no issues with bump steer or odd steering!

Thanks,

Gully

[Gully]

15 hours ago, JohnD said:

Gully,

Well done!  Most satisfying for you to get succh a major job done so smoothly, and so it should be!

BUT, if "Block Paviours" mean what I think they do, the sort of brick that might be laid on your drive, they aren't safe, especially when used in a "stack".

Bricks can break, and if stacked, slip apart.   Fine, just fine for chocking the wheels, but a stout baulk of wood is a better choice.    Keep an eye on skips and at the 'Recycling Depot' for old rafters, railway sleepers (!) etc.    Excuse me, but I'm a committed dumper diver for scrap of all sorts!

John

Thanks, John.

Ideally I would have had a third axle stand to support the end of the spring lifter handle and that's what I'd recommend to anyone else doing the job, but I didn't! Fortunately I have a flat, level drive and a good supply of unused block paviors, which I would always prefer over, say, a frogged brick - they're designed to be strong in compression (vehicles) and I used a block of wood under the handle to avoid any point load that could have triggered cracking. With the lifted spring load being static and downwards through a single plane, I was content with the compromise, but careful and attentive! My biggest risk was knocking the stack myself. All that said, there was no need at any time for me to place my hands in the path the spring (and lifter) would have taken if quickly released and that was the deciding factor on proceeding. My selection of timber off-cuts would have been a much worse option and probably needed a flower pot as a foundation! :-) 

Gully