s99sdp Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Hello All, Forgive my stupidness, I'm not a mechanic, just a heavy duty pen pusher. My Mk3 Spitfire sits very low on the rear drivers side. It also makes a huge clunk/grind from the rear drivers side when the car first moves off then again when the forward momentum stops. I'm assuming its a bush that needs replacing somewhere? I've replaced both rear shocks AND the spring and all the remaining bushes seem ok but can anyone give me some advice from my terrible explanation of the problem? Thanks in advance for your help. SP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Changing the spring (and shocks) made no difference to the lopsidedness? In that case it my be the front of the car causing the issues. Jack the car up with a jack under the diff to get the wheels off the ground. And then see how the front springs are. Another thought, this can be caused (but unusual) by bent or damaged diff front mounts. Obvious when you think that the spring is bolted to te diff. If that is notsitting correctly by a tiny amount, the rear spring will be a long way out. Clunk may be the tie rod from the heelboard to the bottom of the vertical link. Damaged bushes unusual, but damage to the heelboard, or loose bracket attached to heelboard, does happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JumpingFrog Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Check that the driveshaft flange bolts are tight, this is often the source of a clunk, won't affect ride height though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Another thought. When you tightened the spring eye bushes up, you did have the car on the ground, or at least the spring in normal ride position (ie not hanging in the air) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s99sdp Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 5 minutes ago, clive said: Changing the spring (and shocks) made no difference to the lopsidedness? In that case it my be the front of the car causing the issues. Jack the car up with a jack under the diff to get the wheels off the ground. And then see how the front springs are. Another thought, this can be caused (but unusual) by bent or damaged diff front mounts. Obvious when you think that the spring is bolted to te diff. If that is notsitting correctly by a tiny amount, the rear spring will be a long way out. Clunk may be the tie rod from the heelboard to the bottom of the vertical link. Damaged bushes unusual, but damage to the heelboard, or loose bracket attached to heelboard, does happen. Hello Clive, thanks for responding. There's absolutely no difference whatsoever after changing the shocks and spring, drivers R/H is still almost on the floor and the CLUNK on acceleration and deceleration is still there. The front end is perfectly level but I will go through all your suggestions, well, I'll get someone who knows what the'yre actually doing to go through them 😂. Thanks again Clive, I'll update you after we've checked all this out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s99sdp Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 5 minutes ago, JumpingFrog said: Check that the driveshaft flange bolts are tight, this is often the source of a clunk, won't affect ride height though... Thanks for that, I'll add that to the list. SP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s99sdp Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 4 minutes ago, clive said: Another thought. When you tightened the spring eye bushes up, you did have the car on the ground, or at least the spring in normal ride position (ie not hanging in the air) It was hanging in the air but to be fair it was up on axle stands so both wheels were hanging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Most spitty leans iv e come across are front end , differing springs spring pads and bent anti rolls Agree with clive , jack front in the middle does the rear lean ,, jack the rear in the middle does the front lean Always good to have someone with good hearing on the outside to determine where the clunk is coming from Dont run them over !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s99sdp Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 4 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: Most spitty leans iv e come across are front end , differing springs spring pads and bent anti rolls Agree with clive , jack front in the middle does the rear lean ,, jack the rear in the middle does the front lean Always good to have someone with good hearing on the outside to determine where the clunk is coming from Dont run them over !! Thanks Pete, easy advice to follow there (especially the running over bit), I'll give that a go and come back here. SP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Having someone with half an idea on the outside is always a good call Especially for the things like failed tyre banding where it looks good till youre on the move and that drastic vibration is suddenly obvious But not to the driver The old ideas are best !!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s99sdp Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 My Dad's 72 yo and he knows his way round these older cars so we can work our way through all these suggestions. Thanks everyone for chipping in, it's greatly appreciated. Once we've found the issue OR worked our way through them I'll come back and update you. Thanks again. SP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Quote, "drivers R/H is still almost on the floor" !! You've replaced the rear spring? 'Cos my first thought was for that bad a sag broken leaf(ves)! I'd get the back end up, with axle stands under the uprights, so it stands at normal running height, try hand spinning the wheels to look for the grind, and/or trying under power. KEEP CLEAR! And when the engine's not running, get under with a pry bar, big screwdriver or other lever and look for looseness. JOhn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Regarding the clunk - Have you checked that both rear trunnion bushes are not badly worn. I've seen them worn so badly that the trunnion bolt has worn the hole in the vertical link oval, which can cause the type of clunk on/off the power you've described. Just a thought... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s99sdp Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 John & Trigolf.. Thanks for the additional suggestions. I'll work through all these points to see if we can rectify the issue. As the car is currently at my fathers we currently do most of the work on it at weekends so that may be the first time we get to start on the list. Thanks again and if any other ideas come up please post them, every suggestions is gratefully received. SP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 It’s a mk3 so presumably NOT swing spring, and there is a noise from the same corner. Probably the problem is not at the front. I’m liking the trunnion theory best. Damage/wear to either the trunnion itself or the vertical link where the bolt goes through Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 4, 2018 Report Share Posted December 4, 2018 Do check the open drive shafts are the same tape measured lengths not 1/2" different on one side Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s99sdp Posted December 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2018 Nick - Pete, Thanks for these suggestions, I'll add these to my list and get back to you with how we've got on.....or not 🤣 SP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s99sdp Posted December 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2018 UPDATE: Sorry for the late reply....Over the past few weekends I've been doing other bits on the car and in real life. Finally today we managed to convince my stubborn father to start working down your list of suggestions. My cousin came along to give me some moral support and after a very long inspection we found a broken universal joint and a brand new shock absorber that wasn't working. It was useless! Now the coincidence is that it was the same side that was dropped before the shocks were replaced but in the mean time we've changed the spring so.......... I intend to return the shocks for new ones and fingers crossed that will be the end of the lop sided car. We're going to change the universal joint and look at the driveshaft at the same time and just hope that isnt knackered too. Who amongst us thinks that will resolve it? Personally I'm about 60/40 against it working but at least I'll have two working shocks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 30, 2018 Report Share Posted December 30, 2018 Depends how bad the uj has failed, if its that bad it must have made a right racket driving They can damage the yoke , then your in for a new shaft. Shockers are static so should not affect the height, , gas filled will but not static telescopics If the uj is adrift then it will affect the height Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s99sdp Posted December 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2018 Thanks Pete. The shock was basically performing no function and could be compressed to complete compression without any effort at all. The plan now is that we'll exchange the shocks and re fit, replace the UJ and check the rest from there. Fingers crossed that will be the end of it but I fear it wont be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 31, 2018 Report Share Posted December 31, 2018 its a classic . they have the ability to when you find the fault is never cures the problem im sure theres pills you can take that help this syndrome Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s99sdp Posted December 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2018 Didn't realise there were 2 UJ's! Luckily the guy who runs the place I got them from did. One's in and we'll do the other tomorrow. Drivers side was a nightmare to get out. This is all new to me so its a hell of a learning curve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 31, 2018 Report Share Posted December 31, 2018 Do take exceptional car fitting the new circlips, make sure the grooves are clean and the clip it tapped fully home Theres a good few Tee shirts for circlips popping out within 100 yds of home on initial road test It can happen even when you know this, the little sods are out to surprise you Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s99sdp Posted December 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2018 The final clip on the one we fitted today was a nightmare. Im not 100% confident that it's in perfectly but we did all we could short of dynamite to get it in. I'm just a heavy duty pen pusher but I'll take plenty of time on the second UJ tomorrow so hopefully that one will go back together easier and give me some confidence. SP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 31, 2018 Report Share Posted December 31, 2018 Makes an amazing racket if it pops out, and you then loose a cup, driving on can cause serious damage, to the yoke On rebuilds measure the gap between the circlip ears all to be the same, any closed up are suspect Happy new year rules Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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