Waynebaby Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 Hi All, I thought I'd share my expensive lesson in not making assumptions when adjusting the operating lever on a Type-D overdrive solenoid. My last solenoid died an overheated smelly death in a very short space of time, despite me setting the operating lever travel using a 3/16" rod as shown in the attached picture. Being too lazy to dig out my ammeter, I'd assumed that the adjustment was correct only to discover after a few miles of O/D operation that this wasn't the case. Yesterday I adjusted a replacement solenoid using the rod as before but this time double-checked with an ammeter. The current drawn by the solenoid was a constant 19A rather than the ~2A maintenance current which is drawn when the plunger is fully home and depresses the micro-switch. It took another turn on the adjustment nut before the switch was consistently closing. A clear case of check twice, change once! Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 so the setting alignment was with holding the solenoid armature from bottoming on the end switch Dave Twigger the OD man does say the setting is not without the need of some manipulation ....theres got to get a fair wear on the lever and the spool valve lift on a D type its all pretty mechanical operation of the hydraulics think your check was a good call Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VixenPPP Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 The time had come to have a look at the O/D . To the best of my memory it was working, next day it wasn't. No unhealthy noises and no slip in reverse. As advised by Canley, I took the plate off to look at the solenoid arm, started her up ( she's on axle stands ) put her in 3rd and tried the lever switch on the column. No movement at all. With the engine off and in 3 and moving the switch I can hear a faintish clicking which seems to be coming from the battery area. If you look at the pic. Showing my inexperience , is the the O/D engaged ? If it is , does this mean I'm best not to reverse the car ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 as the solenoid push rod is up against the front stop the OD is definitely disengaged when the solenoid does energise the lever moves rewards and as a std setting a 3/16" drill should pop thro the lever hole and enter a similar hole in the case this is as new setting and some small adjustment may be needed as wear takes its toll on the lever and the spool valve it lifts to make things work so to set it up you do need power to the solenoid then adjust the nut to give the stroke to align the 'holes' any clicking may be the relay D type must have one , normally by the battery/coil zone but can be fitted anywhere if its a retro fit OD. the solenoid takes approx 10amps to pull in then the re is a switch at the inside sealed end of the sol. which cuts one coil out and current when running 0.5amps relies on the full travel of the sol. armature the solenoid does not move very far just a few mm . should have read first post first Ha ! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 As Pete says, the faint click you hear is the relay, but that solenoid is not engaged. It's probably a wiring fault between the relay and the solenoid - if that blue wire with a red crimp is the solenoid connection then I definitely don't like the look of it. Time to get the multimeter out and look for where the volts aren't getting to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VixenPPP Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 Once again thank you gents. Some learning curve this is ! Ah some good news, accidentally caught the O/S indicator and it's working ! ....Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VixenPPP Posted June 18, 2020 Report Share Posted June 18, 2020 Hi all...More about the Overdrive solenoid on my 1970 Vitesse. Yes the ' dodgy ' wire from the crimp to the solenoid is of a smaller guage than the Y/P wire from the relay. It's not a problem with removing the lower screw on the sol. because it's not there ! The top screw was not loose but certainly not tight. I noticed a very slight movement on the solenoid itself . I'm going to replace it. I've managed to borrow a pump to clear the water in the pit. I'll have a go with the dreaded screw and see what happens. Where's the solenoid earth ? I started not much further than scratch here you understand... Regards. Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 18, 2020 Report Share Posted June 18, 2020 I think you should sort out the electrical problems before doing any adjusting. You're likely to just make things worse, otherwise. The solenoid earths through its mounting to the gearbox. If the fixings were loose and/or missing then it won't work. Sort that out first. Then if that doesn't fix it, check for voltage on the blue wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted June 18, 2020 Report Share Posted June 18, 2020 As stated above I would check voltage on the blue wire, I had a similar overdrive not working which turned out to be dirty/misaligned contacts in the relay so the relay clicked but no contact was made, just needed a bit of a clean and adjust and has worked fine ever since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VixenPPP Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 Hi all..Thanks for your help gents so far. With the old O/D solenoid in a chorroded state I've have a new one from Moss. Incidentally the two screws have been replaced by bolts. I've not fitted the solenoid yet. As far as I can see there is no power to the solenoid wire from the relay. I'm getting normal volts from the fusebox and ignition. I have the cover off the relay and its chorroded but the points are closing ok. I've cleaned everything up. Still no power to the sol wire. Will the stork or inhibitor switch affect this ? The sol wire will be replaced. What amps would I need for wire and fuse ?... Regards Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 in glass fuse rating a 17/35 would be well adequate and any std auto wire will be fine it does takea flash load of 10+ amps but only for a fraction of a second the main holding coil on a D type runs at less than 0.5 amps whilst its in its running engaged position . a J type takes only less thebn 0,5amp there is no pull in coil just a holding coil . and doesnt need a relay Dtype sol on drivers side J type sol on passenger side the SA141 type inhibitor switches can be full of green corrosion and the relay, if replacing consider fit the relay inside the car not in the engine bay. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 Inhibitor switches can be taken apart and serviced. There are several designs some easier than others to dismantle but all seem to be soft aluminium housings that can be opened with a punch or small cold chisel. From my experience the seal around the plunger can leak allowing oil in when they are screwed into the gearbox. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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