Phil C Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 I'm currently fitting CV driveshafts to my Vitesse restoration and they came with retaining nuts as per the photo. I have not come across this type before but I guess the thin edge of the nut is tapped down into the recess once torqued up??? Any good or should I source nyloc equivalents? Personally I like to see a split pin but may be that's just my age! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 yes just drift the flange into the slot, removing these nuts is best to drill the dimple out , as other means doesnt work and just wrenching it off will tear the end threads to bits presume rotaflex the hub endfloat is 0.005 - 0.0025" which if ok should remain the same as youre just swapping the shaft pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 My CV shafts came with the same nut and slot to peen the thin nut section into. I'd suggest you will need to check the end float - unless you can ensure on the bench that the rear flange / spacer / distance pieces dimensions to the hub seating position are the same between the old and new shafts. Of course, if you're replacing the bearings at the same time, you will need to set it all up from scratch... Gully 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil C Posted October 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 Thanks Guys, I had never seen that type of nut before. I thought that's what I had to but sought confirmation before getting the hammer out😳 Also new bearings so shimming too which is a pain but at least the hubs are on the bench. I'm following the advice note from Canley's technical archive but with only 3 thou shims available it is proving difficult achieving the exact end float. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 26 minutes ago, Phil C said: Thanks Guys, I had never seen that type of nut before. I thought that's what I had to but sought confirmation before getting the hammer out😳 Also new bearings so shimming too which is a pain but at least the hubs are on the bench. I'm following the advice note from Canley's technical archive but with only 3 thou shims available it is proving difficult achieving the exact end float. Phil Hi Phil , I rebuilt my rotoflex setup on my mk2 Vitesse a couple of years ago and had difficulty in achieving the correct endfloat . I purchased mine from http://www.leacyclassics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Shims+&cat= . My situation was I needed 18 thou of shims which would have been 6 shims . From memory I purchased a 10 thou shim from them . Hope this helps Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil C Posted October 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 Thanks Paul. I had the opposite problem. One hub had zero end float so with one shim now has 3 thou - which I'm guessing is close enough 🤠 The other had - 8 thou so with three shims resulted in 1thou end float - which I am also considering close enough..........unless someone advises otherwise? If I had a lathe (which I don't) the skill to use it (which I don't) I suppose I could machine the end of the hub and get it perfect ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 On nicks we simply used a sand disc in a pillar drill and faced with rotating the hub removed a few thou , its not hardened Just need to keep it flat and square to the bore ,, not hard to achieve even with an file' Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qu1ckn1ck Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: On nicks we simply used a sand disc in a pillar drill and faced with rotating the hub removed a few thou , its not hardened Just need to keep it flat and square to the bore ,, not hard to achieve even with an file' Pete Just like the REME (Rough engineering made easy) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 Worth noting that Richard Bliscoe (who advertises in The Courier) has all the various distance pieces available, so with the combination of those and the 3 thou spacer it should be relatively straightforward to achieve the specified half to 2.5 thou end float (without grease). Pete and I found it's as much feel as measurement when you get close! Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 I’ve actually got the same locking nut system on the cv conversion I got from jigsaw. As stated earlier, trial and error to get adequate end float with various shims from Leacey classics but haven’t peened over yet. I was wondering if threadlock might be better to allow removal if necessary at a later date? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qu1ckn1ck Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 3 hours ago, Gully said: Worth noting that Richard Bliscoe (who advertises in The Courier) has all the various distance pieces available, so with the combination of those and the 3 thou spacer it should be relatively straightforward to achieve the specified half to 2.5 thou end float (without grease). Pete and I found it's as much feel as measurement when you get close! Gully I bought all five of the different thickness distance pieces plus several 0.003" shims prior to the work on my hub but at the end of the day we didn't use any of them. If anyone is desperate for a particular distance piece I can possibly help. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil C Posted October 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2019 20 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: On nicks we simply used a sand disc in a pillar drill and faced with rotating the hub removed a few thou , its not hardened Just need to keep it flat and square to the bore ,, not hard to achieve even with an file' Pete Genius Pete. I have a pillar drill so will give this a go. I also love the plywood packing seal locater solution as I didn't want to be pulling off the bearing (again!) - how easy does the seal locate or is there a knack required ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 11, 2019 Report Share Posted October 11, 2019 17 hours ago, Adrian said: I was wondering if threadlock might be better to allow removal if necessary at a later date? Given the importance of this nut and the pressures it may endure during driving I'd prefer a more solid approach to keeping it in place. Personally I'd secure the nut by hammering the edge down into the slot as originally designed, but then I'm a worrier. Threadlock might work but I wouldn't want to find out the hard way...! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 11, 2019 Report Share Posted October 11, 2019 phil, the packers push the seal back in easily be prepared for a tug to get them extricated the nut needs the 100/110 lbft it should sit ok but if there is a slack fit on the splines it can shuffle the nut so staked or stiff nut is advisable Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted October 11, 2019 Report Share Posted October 11, 2019 You could use a nycrolec nut ? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 11, 2019 Report Share Posted October 11, 2019 i guess any stiff nut will work , if the 110 lbft gets beaten then any locking method will fail apart from split pin or staked being a physical lock Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil C Posted October 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2019 Thanks all for you input. Armed with the advice provided I feel better prepared to refine the end float further. Both the hubs and drive shafts are new providing snug fitting splines so I think the nut type provided will be ok. .....however what were Triumph thinking when this design was on the drawing board 🤬🤬🤬 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 14, 2019 Report Share Posted October 14, 2019 it always struck me as very odd when they had a number of CV shaft designs across the BL range , some good some not so good , but the permanently stressed rotaflex is stressed before it starts to turn and the inside out arrangement must have been dreamt up after a skin full used on Imps and much better straight forward design amongst others that used them including boat propeller shaft drives Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted October 14, 2019 Report Share Posted October 14, 2019 It was probably introduced by management (maybe someone looked at their executive speed boats) whilst the plant was on one of its many strikes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 14, 2019 Report Share Posted October 14, 2019 ive delt with these guys on other metalastic devices https://www.robush.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Rotoflex-.pdf you can buy direct from them Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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