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New Garage and Workshop


Paulfc

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Hello,

Work has started on my garage extension which will include a workshop area. It’ll be an elongated version of my existing single garage, and so share a common dividing wall, as I can’t afford to have it opened up to create a conventional double garage open space. I want to create the best working space I can and would appreciate any advice/experience/learnings folk may have who’ve done a similar job and in particular on sealing and painting a new concrete floor? 
 

Many thanks,

Paul

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ive sealed and painted but the longest lasting is a roll of vinyl checker   plate    from cost co.  roll out trim  job done  its lasted 8 years of work ok so far easy clean and pretty tough

mine is a single style garage with a 8mtr timber workshop tagged on the back  its worked well   ( its carpeted with industrial stuff but swmbo wont vacuum it )

Pete

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Dividing wall no bad thing - confines dust and noise to one side.   Mine has a broad valley gutter between the two roofs, which provides a storage corridor below between them, very useful.

My floor is painted with - garage floor paint!  I chose International brand. Hard wearing, in places were it does go, like the alcove I keep the tools trolley in where disregard wheels go.over it repeatedly, it's easy to repaint the worn bits.    Let the new concrete weather for a few weeks, lay the dust with a cost of PVA, then paint with a roller on a stick.

John

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  • 1 month later...
A little late replying to this post but first consideration is to establish is the floor has a DPM ( damp proof membrane ).
 
If so allow the floor to dry to a minimum of 75%RH ( test with a digital hygrometer if possible).
Alternatively place an old rubber car mat on the floor and if after a few days there isn't a visible damp patch you are probably nearly there- give it another couple of weeks before painting.
General rule of thumb for drying is an inch a month given reasonable conditions.
If any sealer paint is applied before the floor is dry it will probably lift due to the moisture trying to escape.
You may like to smooth the floor before applying the sealer / floor paint. Look at F Ball www.f-ball.com  for a suitable product.
 
If the base doesn't have a dpm you will need to apply one to the surface if you are intending to paint but this can be an expensive option.
So you may then look to use a loose laid vinyl sheet as previously suggested. Moisture will build up under this over a period so remove and ventilate in the summer.
 
You may find a floor paint that can be applied to a base that doesn't contain a DPM but check the technical blurb.
Again if you are looking to smooth the floor first make sure the latex compound can go under a DPM ( F Ball 1200 Pro would be suitable).
 
No connection with manufacturers - but too long in the industry !🙄
 
Phil
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Thanks Phil! A timely response as the weather has delayed things with the roof being felted today and a self leveller after Christmas. The construction includes a DPM and I’ll take on board all you’ve advised. Many thanks for taking the time out to respond with such detail.

Paul

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1 hour ago, Phil Hayden said:
 
 
No connection with manufacturers - but too long in the industry !🙄
 
Phil

...and as such your advice on building and renovation work will be very welcome. It's good to have a wide range of experts and advisors on the forum. You never know what we'll be planning next.

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Hi again Paul,
brief note..
If a self leveller is being used ensure the base is primed first. The primer should be out of the same stable as the levelling compound.
Most floor failures are due to poor preparation...dusty floors.
If the floor has a DPM and is sufficiently dry either a water based leveller or a latex based can be used, water-based are generally harder.
Good luck and a Merry Christmas
Phil
 
 

 

 

 
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