Tanky Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 Hi all again, I spoke to Rimmers yesterday about valve stem seals. (I hope that's right) little rubber seals on my valves. I wanted replacements as I have them fitted. Rimmers say they shouldn't be fitted as it was an aftermarket botch and they left the factory with none fitted. Any advice, should I replace them or remove them and leave them off....? Also, my valves were heavily coated in coke, I suspect that this could be the cause of my misfire....thoughts? Lastly, the PO said it had been converted to Unleaded and I have some paperwork to support it, but I'm not convinced, is there any harm in me adding additive if it has been converted? Many thanks all, I really appreciate your advice.. Charlie Many thanks all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 If you have the head off it's easy to see if it has been converted, as you will be able to see the valve seat inserts on the exhaust ports. Valve stem seals were never fitted at the factory. https://enginetekniks.co.uk/unleaded-conversions/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 there are a number of stem seals knocking around some are an 0 ring fits inside the guide and others are a cap fits over the guide, the valves on our engines rely on a small level of lubrication to avoid seizure so never fit guide seals unless you wish for impending failure even bronze guides often sold as an upgrade will give early life seizures so in the course of happy driving do what Triumph designed and it will do what you want for years , yes only the exhaust will have a hard ring insert , and may have the vale itself of a later spec to suit , but def. no seals your deposits are not bad a bit of mixture and cheap fuel sooty do you run on 95ron** or 97+ ???? why is the head off ??? some of the seats look a bit dull but what made you feel this needed a strip down ??? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 I changed Herald guides recently, and to be honest the basic steel guides were the best, given the mileage I'll be doing, so if you're buying replacements consider the use your engine will be getting before you waste money on the bronze or even stainless versions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanky Posted April 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 Hi Pete, nice to hear from you again. My Spit is undergoing a complete rebuild and respray, so it made sense (to me anyway!) While the engine and gearbox were out I might as well change the head gasket I also had an annoying oil leak from the sump. If you remember from previous posts of mine, I had a misfire when the engine was hot and it was suggested, amongst others that it might not have been converted to unleaded and the valves might not be seating properly due to being coked up.... The valve seals are little black hard rubber 'O' rings. So if you as a Triumph Jedi say leave them off, so be it..... And yes, I run it only on 97.... Please keep the advice coming.... Cheers all...... Charlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 thats some odd advice valves will gain deposits be they leaded or unleaded makes absolutley no difference poor mixture .timing valve clearances and crappy fuel ,poor air cleaners, bad breathing, wrong plugs valve timing lots of short runs on choke will make soot and carbon on the back of the valve no matter whats lead or unleaded you valves look pretty clean compared to some real growth that can occur with years of poor running . oil down the guides and bad breathing will add some good grott Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 When my brother and I bought the 1500 engine that's now in my Spitfire, to fit to a Herald estate with utterly shot crank, we took the seller's word that it was a runner and just fitted it. OK, we took the head off for transport but didn't even de-coke it. When we finally got it back together and fired up, it ran beautifully for all of three seconds before conking out with no compression on any cylinder. Now that was a heavily coked engine! We're talking nearly half an inch of soot build up - so much that after a while sat idle and then getting shaken back to life, the heavy deposits on the back of the inlet valves worked loose and jammed them all open. And that was in 1989 so it had never seen unleaded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: lots of short runs on choke will make soot and carbon on the back of the valve no matter whats lead or unleaded you valves look pretty clean compared to some real growth that can occur with years of poor running . oil down the guides and bad breathing will add some good grott Pete My early 1200 engine before I stripped it down... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanky Posted April 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 These are the things I'm talking about! Valve stem seals, am I right? Or am I being an idiot again? Cheers Charlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 Yes, those are valve stem seals, fancier than the ones I've seen suggested and might actually stay in place. But as Pete said, 5 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: the valves on our engines rely on a small level of lubrication to avoid seizure so never fit guide seals unless you wish for impending failure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanky Posted April 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 Nough said methinks! Thank you all, as ever, appreciated. Charlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 hopefully destined for the bin. you also have to ensure a seal does not impede the valve drop there aint a lot of room between the collets and guide top on full stroke a seal may cause interference ...just to add a a thought Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted June 6, 2022 Report Share Posted June 6, 2022 On 11/04/2020 at 21:37, Pete Lewis said: hopefully destined for the bin. you also have to ensure a seal does not impede the valve drop there aint a lot of room between the collets and guide top on full stroke a seal may cause interference ...just to add a a thought Pete You are right here Pete. As per my 2500 engine post. Probably what my problem is. I will remove them if discover that they are fitted. (By the rope method). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 6, 2022 Report Share Posted June 6, 2022 compressed air down a dummy spark plug is a lot easier than roping Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firefly Posted June 6, 2022 Report Share Posted June 6, 2022 When I erroneously fitted them to my vitesse engine that I put in my MGB, I made a slimline chisel out of a thin screwdriver. Working between the spring coils, I was able to cut the seal vertically, and then drag it out with some pointed nose pliers. Make sure the seal spring doesn`t disappear and join the tappets etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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