Vitesse twin Stromberg interconnecting pipe

[Jeff]

Hi Chaps

Can anyone tell me what the correct hose is for the connection between the 2 carbs on my Vitesse 2.0 mk 2

It appears to be some sort of air or vacuum connection.

Should it be normal rubber, like fuel line?

The existing has gone very hard and I am servicing the carbs, but can't find any information

Thanks

[NonMember]

Those are the late CDS type Strombergs. If you look at where that pipe attaches on the front carb, you'll see there's a barrel type affair that isn't on the rear one. This is the choke mechanism. The pipe is an interconnect - it supplies the cold start enrichment (extra fuel) to the rear carb.

The original is made of a clear, flexible plastic. Rubber would be OK but use R9 rated stuff because it does carry fuel.

[Colin Lindsay]

17 minutes ago, NonMember said:

Rubber would be OK but use R9 rated stuff because it does carry fuel.

Spot on - I was just looking for a supplier and all of the companies who supply a replacement are selling black fuel hose.

[Guest]

Gates Barricade fuel hose will be ideal and I think 1/4" ID will be fine.

The issue with that type of plastic pipe is that it gets so hard it will eventually shatter.

[Jeff]

Thanks very much. I knew I would get the right answer here.

 

[Jeff]

Does anyone supply a kit for both carbs? I have seen kits at Rimmers and Paddock, but not sure if they contain everything.

The carbs are in good condition ( well they were when the car last ran 9 years ago)

Would I need to replace the float valves?

Are there any other parts that may need replacing that are not included in the kits?

Thanks again

[Colin Lindsay]

9 minutes ago, Jeff said:

Does anyone supply a kit for both carbs?

Would I need to replace the float valves?

Are there any other parts that may need replacing that are not included in the kits?

Most kits are sold for one carb only so you'll need two, and they're basic stuff - diaphragm, maybe the needle valve, o-rings and gaskets. (I've found a few suppliers online now to check and their kit is exactly the same as everyone else's - see photo for parts)

They don't usually include float valves, or the case screws and washers, but these are always available elsewhere. You can round the screws off very easily when splitting the carbs, so take care - No2 Pozidrive does it. I'm pretty sure the linkages are unavailable - the plastic clips you tighten onto the spindles to link both carbs - so take care with those. (Unless someone knows of a source?)

Most parts are readily available from Gower and Lee or the Carburettor hospital, amongst others. http://www.carburettorspecialists.com/products.htm

 

[dougbgt6]

Colin,

Hmmmmm, the Rimmer's kit is for both carbs, and include float valves, there's one in your picture! My experience is/was there's loads of bits left over as the kits are universal. It is cheaper to buy just the bits you need, but if you're a novice that may not be practical. The kits don't include needles and there are two sorts of Stromberg jets, Rimmers kit has just one, the wrong one for me. They wouldn't exchange them as I'd opened the kit  

The old valves had a small ball bearing arrangement, the new a sort of flap. The ballbie looked more substantial to me, but I can see how it could become worn and leak so I fitted the flap jobs.

Doug

 

[Qu1ckn1ck]

Also Burlen Services.

 

[dave.vitesse]

Burlen Ltd 01722 412500 are the main source of Stromberg parts and kits. The kits come with new float valve, but if yours are working OK then you may not need to replace them. The 'O' sealing rings, jets, may need replacing due to age.

The plastic pipe is original and is used to connect the second carb to the choke box on the first carb. The plastic pipe should now be replaced with a rubber type.

Dave

[Colin Lindsay]

43 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

Colin,

Hmmmmm, the Rimmer's kit is for both carbs, and include float valves, there's one in your picture!

I meant floats!! FLOATS!! Need more coffee.

Some suppliers will stipulate that the repair kit is for ONE carb only - the one on my photo only has one diaphragm, and I didn't want Jeff buying a kit only to find he's an entire carb short, so it pays to check.

[Jeff]

Thanks again gents.

Do the jets need replacing? Theoretically, they shouldn't wear as nothing touches them.

[dougbgt6]

13 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I meant floats!! FLOATS!! Need more coffee

I wrote jets instead of valves, had to edit it. A sign of the times! 

Jeff,

Stromberg needles are biased so jets could be worn.

Doug

[dave.vitesse]

17 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

I wrote jets instead of valves, had to edit it. A sign of the times! 

Jeff,

Stromberg needles are biased so jets could be worn.

Doug

The Vitesse jets are not biased, only the late GT6 Mk3.

Dave

[Pete Lewis]

couple of things to tink about  

if thinking of a new diaphragm  some are far too thick and  stiff,   if the old is swelled a wash in petrol will restore  it to new 

give it a stretch look for small holes .. if holes its past repair 

strom jets are not normally a worn problem  even with biased needles ( sprung to stop fuel leaving from the front ) when it comes the gaskets some kits have about 5 options included  these cater for some small float chamber changes over the years , you can fit a new one and find a corner leaks where the shape has quietly been altered  

floats are solid and dont suck up fuel  never needed , 

some floats have two valve arms and its easy to refit it upside down and mess up fuel levels 

[dougbgt6]

8 minutes ago, dave.vitesse said:

The Vitesse jets are not biased, only the late GT6 Mk3. 

Dave

I learn something every day!

Doug

[Pete Lewis]

yes CD and CDS  are fixed needles so jets need centering  have bottom jet adjusters 

CDSE  and CDSEV are biased needles  and needle adjustment is by long hex key down the dash pot tube  jets are a light pressed in fit so they are not adjustable

[Jeff]

Thanks again for all the replies.

Pete, what do you mean by " the jets need centering" ?

Also, I was surprised to see no gasket between the faces of the outer choke assembly. Should it have one?

The gasket between the choke and body seems to have poor alignment of the holes

[Pete Lewis]

there are no gaskets on  the valve faces , while its off a rub with some lubricated fine wet and dry to reduce any old scoring is worhtwhile.

on a bottom jet adjustable CD carb and SU  to make sure the jet is central in the jet , there is to start with a simple test , raise the air piston it should drop witha nice

firm clunk onto the bridge ,if it does its likely  fine  , if the drop comes to a stop without a clunk the needle is making contact with the jet assy,

to sort is a little more work , you need to screw the jet adjuster to level the top of the jet with the bridge, undo the big nut on the jet 1/2 turn and with the piston fully down and the jet wound upm give the brass jet holder a tap and nip up the big nut lightly  does the piston now drop ok ? 

if so turn the adjuster nut back to its original position or  the basic setting turn back down 2 to  3 full turns and tune from there 

takes 5 mins to do but 10 mins to type 

 

Pete

[Jeff]

The jet is drilled concentrically and the jet retaining nut has to be tight. I remember the procedure on the SUs, but the jet hole was off centre I recall.

I can't see any way the position can be changed, it is centred with a bush

[Jeff]

Hi Pete

Ignore my last post.

I have have just had another look and realise the top bush can move quite a bit, so needs to be centred.

I wonder why they didn't just align the hole with the needle?

[dave.vitesse]

Picture 1 undo to centralise jet. Picture 2 Jet height/mixture adjustment.

Dave  

[Pete Lewis]

Dave  , can you get some nail varnish ????

yes good pics    we need some NUTS 

Pete

[Jeff]

Thanks again chaps

A veritable mine of information.

I just need to ensure the gasket kit contains all the parts I need, some don't and some suppliers don't have an image, so need to get on the dog and bone.

Colin, how do you manage to store and maintain so many cars?

[Iain T]

Jeff,

I stripped both of my CDS150's down a few months ago and bought a service kit from Rimmers. The box said it was actually a Burlen product, as it has been said they supply a lot of other retailers, but the diaphragms were very thick and stopped the air piston from dropping onto the bridge. Although I could force it down it naturally sat about 2mm off the bridge. I phoned Burlen who although I purchased the kit from Rimmers replaced both of the diaphragms FOC and were nice and thin and worked perfectly. Top tip if the new diaphragms look distorted, mine did, then don't fit them they will give you no end of trouble, needle centring, not dropping correctly,  just insist on replacements.

As to the choke mechanism as Pete says there is no gasket between the two removable parts only from the carb body to the part with the brass tube in it. I used 1000 grit wet and dry to clean up the surfaces of the disc and all mating surfaces (but it still weeps fuel!). Make sure you put the wet and dry on a flat surface like glass, I used a quartz worktop while my wife was out, to ensure you take an even amount off. 

Iain