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Door Gaps Vitesse Saloon


Paul H
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Looking to improve the door gaps on my Vitesse mk2 saloon . Check out the the narrowing gap . Just need advice as to the correct way to proceed . Current plan is to loosen , replace the bolts holding the rear tub to the chassis , remove sills ( both sides need doing though passenger is less tapered) Jack the tub spreading the load with a block of wood , is it best to use metal inserts or rubber or a combination . Insert location to the left close to the B post . 
Would the front bulkhead securing bolts need to be loosened ?

Paul 

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Paul  you will probably need to add some packing to the body mounts to raise the two tubs to correct the taper think its pretty std tapers caused by sag 

just widening the gap wont relieve the taper , if you undo the mounts either side of the door gap(and more) jack the tubs you will see the taper reduce.

just add packers to suit 

its unlikely you will drop the rear but its easier   to raise the centre 

the front mounts of the baulkhead a sized holes so little adjustment of fwd/Rrward of the front tub  ( and on mine found they  had been opened out to 20mm   it was then moveable

i reckon when you lift the tubs the gap will even out and full tub shift wont be needed ....live in hope 

Pete

 

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First check the door hinges; are they in the optimum position? You may be able to pull the door forwards and up by the hinges but it all depends on the position of the quarterlight and if it's going to be hitting the screen pillar. 

You need to loosen the mountings on that side at least and try a spacer or two directly under the B post but be advised once you move one thing, it puts something else out elsewhere...

Read the Service Training Notes; it gives tips on adjustments.

https://app.box.com/s/t9jjtxvxoskfrlupjmyg4bk4x1k04d3k

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Normally one flexible mount per bolt except the two in the boot, solid only, through the transverse spring tunnel then metal packing, cut a slot in the packing so you don't have to remove the bolt each time. The flexible packing needs to be quite firm something of the consistency of a drive belt, rubber washers are a bit on the soft side.

Best of luck.

Paul

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Difficult to judge but looks like your door might go forwards a bit more and maybe tilt down some to even up the rear edge gap. The bonnet might also go down a little further adjusting the rubber stops to keep the chrome strips level. I've found having the quarter light as close to the A pillar helps reduce wind noise and sealing there but if it's too tight the quarterlight can be moved on its mountings inside the door shell. Don't think youll get it perfect but maybe an improvement...

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Is there a starting position for the door and quarterlight? I know I've adjusted mine before, trying to get the doors to fit (Herald estate) and now I'm starting from scratch to refit the body and bulkhead I don't want to be working with a badly adjusted door assembly. There's nothing in the manuals to state how the quarterlight should be originally fitted and as far as I'm concerned the frame just drops into the door, rests on the bracing strip, and goes as far forward as possible. Any thoughts?

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I prefer door forwards as much as possible and quarterlight back as required to ensure the rear of the glass has good coverage of the seal on the B post. This also helps to close up the door to bonnet gap which on many cars is too big....

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dont forget on many CV the hood tension has  now pulled the A post rearward not on a saloon but this tends to make the NDV foul the A post with no means of door  or NDV adjustment  available to aid alignment ..

pauls door only has the taper down the B post the others are fairly  acceptable as far as these cars go , may not be utopia but certainly presentable and workable

door adjustment wont solve the taper shown .

Pete

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Agree. Was recently doing this on my Vit CV.

More packing under the rear side-rigger body mounts or less under the boot riggers/shock towers will open the top up. This will only open up the top and not close up the bottom so looks like once parallel, the gap might be a bit big. It is possible to change this by shuffling the rear tub forward relative to the bulkhead (I had to do the opposite on mine), but gets considerably more involved.

suggest slackening the rear roof bolts before doing anything.

Nick

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