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Coil/distributor


VixenPPP
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Hi all... Having little experience with HT or LT circuits I'm not sure what's failing. When using a spark tester gizmo ( the one that's lights up blue ) there is zero lights or sparks nor does the coil warm up. I'm sure there is power going to the + on the coil. The distributor is an AC Delco 200. The coil is a Lucas DLB 105. Not sure wether I should have , but I earthed the coil to the block and it was warm in 10 minutes.... regards Neil

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if the coil is getting 12v positive  then you need to look at points and condenser wiring ,  if you flick the coil -ve to earth quick it should make a spark from the coil HT lead

dlb105  is the correct coil for your viitesse

i dont recomend leaving it earthed for long periods even as a test 

 

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

if you flick the coil -ve to earth quick it should make a spark from the coil HT lead

Hi Pete. Is that a jumper lead from Coil neg to earth (briefly), at the same time as holding the the coil HT close to earth?. Not heard of this way before. I guess it shows the coil is working, at least while it is cold?.

Cheers, Dave

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if you replace the dizzy lead  black -ve  with a short fly lead and with ign on flash the lead to earth you will get the coil to charge and discharge a spark off the HT King lead if you hold it close to the block or similar  so you need 6 pairs of hands 

I once to get rid of a guy being a pain said stick the lead in your mouth and flick the lead to  earth  we had to get security to extract him from my office next day...never saw him again  so it worked   dont try this at home !!!!!!

Pete

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Hi all..In reply to Colin, main reason for suspecting the coil was that it was stone cold even with the ignition on for some time. As Pete's advised I'll look at the points etc, replace them in fact. Another concern is that I can turn the dizzy cap at least 1/4 " . I would have thought there would be a locating lug inside the cap which fits in the slot on the main body....Thanks all.

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48 minutes ago, VixenPPP said:

Hi all..In reply to Colin, main reason for suspecting the coil was that it was stone cold even with the ignition on for some time. As Pete's advised I'll look at the points etc, replace them in fact. Another concern is that I can turn the dizzy cap at least 1/4 " . I would have thought there would be a locating lug inside the cap which fits in the slot on the main body....Thanks all.

Aha... thanks! I always assumed that a coil that gets hot is on the way out, in fact i had one that melted and spewed hot oil everywhere...

Delco caps are held on only by the two wire clips, not as substantial as the Lucas variety, so can move about slightly.

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on delco there is a small relief in the cap and a bit of a tag on the body to position it , the register in the cap and its fit onto the base is often awful

many repro caps just float,, not good, i had to dremmel the cap to get the register to fit in the base

pete

 

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12 hours ago, VixenPPP said:

Hi all..In reply to Colin, main reason for suspecting the coil was that it was stone cold even with the ignition on for some time.

Cold coil just means there's no current flowing through it, which is more likely to be points / wiring than the coil itself. Your "earth to the block" test showed that current will flow (the coil got warm) when the points are bypassed, so that suggests it's not the coil but the points/wiring, as Pete said. On Delco, look out for the coil LT wire falling out of the points or the earthing wire for the base plate failing.

In fact, take a photo of your open dizzy and post it up here. We might spot something you don't.

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Hi all...as suggested here are a couple of pics; The gent. at Canley says my engine No. MEA253ESS denotes a factory recon. originally intended for an auto or an estate. It is not the one recorded in the reg. doc. The distributor should not be a Delco and by the numbers I gave would be fitted on a GT6 11/111 . He said just order the dizzy parts as for GT6. I've read the SS above denotes silver seal. Oh I've repaired the tank mentioned in a previous post, but, it's a Herald tank. I've managed to get a replacement for a Vitesse...Thanks again.... Neil

Oh..you'll notice the brown wire is tied in a knot...can't be good surely.

IMG_20200603_155454903.jpg

IMG_20200603_155257730.jpg

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The brown wire tied in a knot is normal, believe it or not. Stops it being pulled through the grommet. However, I'm not convinced that being brown is normal - I think it's supposed to be white/black. Assuming that wire does, in fact, go directly to coil -ve, the colour doesn't matter, though.

There's nothing obviously amiss in those photos but check that the brown wire and the condenser (black) wire are both fitted in contact with the spring of the points and not with the frame. The little knobbly white plastic thing goes between the frame and them - so from left in your photo it should be spring, brown wire tag, black wire tag, plastic thing, frame. The slightly furry black wire towards the bottom of the dizzy in those photos, which goes from the outer shell to the mounting plate, is the earth strap. If it fails you get no spark, but it looks to be intact.

I'm a little concerned by all the electrical tape wrapped round the brown/black wire outside the dizzy. It suggests the wire has failed and some DPO bodged it up instead of replacing it.

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Neil

It is not unknown for the short fabric covered wire which provides the earth connection between the moveable bottom plate and the distributor body to be broken. Initially you can check for continuity with a meter, but give the wire a good wiggle as well in case it is hanging on by a single strand. It looks original, so could well be showing its age.

Ian

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Hi fellas...She's running and sounds quite sweet, idles and picks up revs well.

I'm pretty sure it was the LT earth connection on the points. This wire and the short fabric covered one need replacing, but, they don't seem to be available. I noticed the baseplate is marked ' oil ' . I imagine this is one drop of light oil ? Next is to replace the herald tank with a Vitesse tank . 

Thanks for your help fellas

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a good squirt of engine oil now and teh this lubes the top bush as its not 'engine' lubricated 

delco have a felt pad inside the base  to act as a oiler,      too much just dribbles out of a drain hole 

too little makes a spindle wear and gets expensive 

its a place often ignored  with expensive consequences 

applies to lucas and delco 

Pete

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