Ian Cooper Posted June 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2020 Hi Peter. That would be great but absolutely no panic on that anytime will do. Cheers Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted June 8, 2020 Report Share Posted June 8, 2020 4 hours ago, Peter Truman said: My Mk2 has what is like a coat hanger wire that hooks onto that spring then goes between the starter and sump with a bend in it to get round the starter it's around 150mmm long, it then hooks over the lip of the sump. Its always been like that for the 50 years I've had the car, crude but it works and relatively simple to hook and unhook can provide a photo tomorrow if needed too cold (3C) and late tonight. Peter T Peter T, That's interesting, what years is your MK2 as it sounds original. As was the louvre mounting. Sorry for the anorak question. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 8, 2020 Report Share Posted June 8, 2020 I know my first Vitesse - a late Mk1 - had an arrangement like Peter T described. That was back when it was only 20 years old - doesn't rule out bodgery but it looked OEM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted June 8, 2020 Report Share Posted June 8, 2020 My Mk2 is a 1st Nov 68 UK reg, & I've owned it since Sept 70. shipping it back to Aus in Dec73, so basically original except my subsequent mods which I have documented on file, anti run on solenoid, servo to brakes, electric fuel pump in boot, battery in boot, S/S braided brake hoses, air horns, oil pressure gauge, Lucas alternator with S/S turnbuckle adjuster & alloy pulley, electronic ignition, S/S exhaust pipe and silencer, some poly bush's, Spitfire 1500 5J wheel, Oh I forgot the main one a saloon to proper conv conversion using a 62 Herald CKD rear tub. The heads been off around 40years ago but the engines never been removed. I think that's it! Will post a photo of the throttle return spring extender today. To do a J type overdrive ex Dolly 1850 to be converted into a 3 rail box, have all the bits even a Rimmer's special new prop shaft. What else am I dreaming of, Alloy water pump body the existing CI dead weight annoys my engineering principals, with an Aussie electric water pump/controller this then makes room for an electric rad fan. By then it should be ready to pass onto my daughter! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted June 8, 2020 Report Share Posted June 8, 2020 Here it is in all its Triumphant glory! that's a 150mm steel rule for size comparison. The eyelet is obviously the spring end & the hook goes over the lip on the steel sump. I think the two bends are basically to be able to adjust the length as reqd to get the spring tension you want!. The straight bit at the bottom (hook end) is to be able to pass between the starter and block thickness wise 1/10in or 2.56mm. Hope this helps Peter T . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted June 9, 2020 Report Share Posted June 9, 2020 8 hours ago, Peter Truman said: My Mk2 is a 1st Nov 68 UK reg, & I've owned it since Sept 70. shipping it back to Aus in Dec73, so basically original except my subsequent mods which I have documented on file, anti run on solenoid, servo to brakes, electric fuel pump in boot, battery in boot, S/S braided brake hoses, air horns, oil pressure gauge, Lucas alternator with S/S turnbuckle adjuster & alloy pulley, electronic ignition, S/S exhaust pipe and silencer, some poly bush's, Spitfire 1500 5J wheel, Oh I forgot the main one a saloon to proper conv conversion using a 62 Herald CKD rear tub. The heads been off around 40years ago but the engines never been removed. I think that's it! Will post a photo of the throttle return spring extender today. To do a J type overdrive ex Dolly 1850 to be converted into a 3 rail box, have all the bits even a Rimmer's special new prop shaft. What else am I dreaming of, Alloy water pump body the existing CI dead weight annoys my engineering principals, with an Aussie electric water pump/controller this then makes room for an electric rad fan. By then it should be ready to pass onto my daughter! Hello Peter, Something in the back of my memory says that maybe original. But I have only ever known the return spring connected to the sidescreen. Another misery to dig into, which is always good. Thanks, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Cooper Posted June 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 Hi Folks. I fitted a clear pipe to deliver fuel from the front to rear carb and I've noticed fuel running between the two carbs even when the choke is in...is this normal? Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 no the choke should only allow fuel to be sucked up from the float chamber dip tube when the disc in the starter allows the throat vacuum to pull fuel thro the system are you sure the front face vents are clear and fuel levels are not overfilling (sorry to be repeatative ) and the discs are correctly positioned on the cable shaft ?? do the stater poppet valves look operational ??? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Cooper Posted June 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 That's what I thought. When I said I was a Stromberg Carburetor Numpty I wasn't joking....Poppet valves???Ian Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 With the choke closed this cuts off the fuel supply to the rear carb via the clear tube. Try disconnecting the choke cable at the front carb and see if the flow stops , if it does then reset the cable Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 It may be you'll have to take the choke off the carb and take a look perhaps the guy who refurbed the carbs got it wrong as he should have known about the connecting tube! It's only two screws plus disconnecting the choke cable and it comes off. The 'middle' body might stay attached to the carb body as there is a gasket between them. If the whole assembly comes off take the outer choke body off the 'middle' so you can see the disc that rotates and allows fuel through to both carbs via the two sets of graduated holes. Firstly are there two sets of holes, there are discs with only one set of holes. If there are only one set of holes you have the wrong disc (guru's have I got that right?) and it just won't work. The two sets of holes line up with two radial tear drop shape machined holes in the middle body. When the disc is rotated by pulling the choke out the graduated holes align with the tear drop holes and allows fuel to the front and rear carbs to enriched the mixture thereby aiding starting. If this has been stripped down and disassembled the disc can be reassembled back to front so that the graduated and tear drop holes are misaligned. It's simple to flip it over just let us know what you find. It sounds complicated but when you look at it all will be revealed! Try Pauls test then I'm afraid you will have to take the choke off and take a gander🤓 There is a post in 'Fuel System' I think it is 'Vitesse starting problems' with pictures! Keep us informed and don't panic....... Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 in the middle section?? thee are two simple brass poppet/plate valves to aid what goes where Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 In the middle body there are indeed two poppet valves but I think (might be wrong) that on the face of the middle body that mates with the outer there are radial tear shaped recesses where the poppets are. They are radial tear shaped to match the radial graduated holes. When fully rotated (choke full open) all the graduated holes are aligned with the tear to allow maximum fuel flow. As I say I might be wrong, it's been more than two days since I disassembled my choke🤪 This week I thought Tuesday was Wednesday and gained a whole day! Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 this starter valve is one of the " we not going to show or tell you about it" parts , Ive not found many details worth showing of the operation or details of operation principles of operation or DIY fixes so its all on here now ha ! Iain is in the frame very few marques had the twin carb single choke spec idea Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Cooper Posted June 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 Thanks Pete. I'm trying to reason out this issue, rather than spanner it to death. I can make her start and run but clearly there should not be fuel running through the pipe when the choke is in, so I'll take a long look at cable travel before I reach for my spanners. Be a few days before I get back to it though. Cheers Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 the alternative is fit a pair of early CD with the thames barrier choke ,, there is no excess fueling other than block its nose ans suck it out the jet Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Cooper Posted June 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 OK Guys...I'm back. I've taken the cold start apart but I really don't know what I'm looking at (fault wise) so I'm hoping if I show you some pics you can prod me in the right direction. Any help very gratefully received. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 15, 2020 Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 I would strip the disc off its spindle and on flat surface with a oily wet and dry fine paper flat the scoring marks out a bit I see you have found the poppet valves !! the tappet screw for the choke cam needs to be set with approx 0.020" gap must be a gapp but not as big as shown, the knurled plunger is a winter summer stop for the choke so you can have less choke in the summer , more in winter all the rest looks about right Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted June 16, 2020 Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 Ian, The disc orientation looks correct, the same as mine and it works correctly. To take the disc off you have to file down the burr on the brass shaft, it seems it's only there to stop the assembly from 'exploding' when I put my refurbished assembly back I didn't bother to peen it over again. When you get the disc off there is a dished disc behind it then a spring. Be careful the spring doesn't boing out and get lost! As Pete says, onto a flat (glass etc) surface put a wetted piece of wet and dry, I used 1000 grit, and gently polish the disc. I also polished both sides of the middle body, that's the one with the brass connector tube. Also with the discs and shaft removed I polished the outer body mating surface as there isn't a gasket between it and the middle part. Make sure you then clean all parts with say carb cleaner and inspect all the graduated holes that none are blocked. Reassemble making sure the disc and shaft are correctly orientated. The adjustment screw should have a small clearance to the choke cam. Best of luck let us know how you get on! Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Cooper Posted June 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 Hi Iain. All back together and I've carried out a few 'choke' starts and the flow, front to back carb, is now shutting off completely. This is one of those (wtf) fixes that I hate because I really can't see, apart from some cleaning, that I've actually identified and cured/repaired anything (so in my book the monster is still hiding under the bed). Can I ask another quick question, which is probably a simple "don't you know the answer" thing, sometimes when I put the battery back on and turn the key all I get is 'Click' ignition light goes out and nothing?? Bugger about taking the battery off and on several times and WHAM off she goes as if nothing in the previous five minutes ever happened?? Cheers for all the help Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 16, 2020 Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 That could be a weak / flat battery or a poor connection at the battery terminals. Try a full charge on the battery and listen if the starter solenoid clicks; even if it does there may not be enough power to crank the starter. You can short the two solenoid terminals and if the starter turns, that's your problem, but put the battery on charge first. I've done that many times after working on the car, too many starts and not enough running to recharge it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 16, 2020 Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 As Colin says, probably poor connection. If it's a standard type 027 or 063 or similar, the posts do get a bit of corrosion on them and unless you've taken the trouble to clean them up while the terminals were off it's not unusual for them just not to make proper (and by "proper" we mean "good for several hundred amps") electrical contact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 16, 2020 Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 there used to be post cleaners , which remove the hard glazed oxide stuff that makes poor connections , a good knarl up with some pliers or similar often gets you clean lead here's some https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=battery+terminal+cleaning+tool&adgrpid=66009826000&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk7DQifKG6gIVCLrtCh1DUgPDEAAYASAAEgKg0fD_BwE&hvadid=318091044470&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9046046&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14286464402221478561&hvtargid=kwd-324916656936&hydadcr=7316_1812519&tag=googhydr-21&ref=pd_sl_1fwrb7xbue_e Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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