Drain plug

[Adrian]

Hi chaps

a niggling problem I’ve been meaning to do. A leak from the gearbox which obviously accumulates at the lowest point, the drain plug. Apart from general oil/dirt it appears to also originate from the plug. Now it’s clear that it’s not the proper plug and I assume it’s a taper thread? The gear box was overhauled by Jigsaw around 2014 according to the po receipts. So what do you think I should do,; assume the bolt is the correct thread and pinch it up a bit more (assuming it can); wash it all down and recheck; drain it and get a correct plug; or something else?

As always, thanks

[johny]

They do seem to need tightening up a lot to seal but that's a standard plug so don't know with yours...

[Colin Lindsay]

That's probably an aftermarket version, might even have a magnet on it, but much easier to work with than the standard square plug. You'll have to remove it to find out. It's also the lowest point of the gearbox, so any oil leaking from anywhere drips off it, so can be a bit of a red herring when looking for leaks.

I'd remove it - you'll be topping the oil up anyway so a refill isn't that much more bother - and make sure there's no damage, clean up the threads, and replace it.

[Adrian]

Looking a bit further into it and there is oil under the OD as well. Noticed that the OD nuts are not central to the support plat with some burring. Certainly can’t get a socket on them.  I’m wondering if it may be appropriate for a yank and proper check

 

[Pete Lewis]

seen that problem on gully's Gt6 after it was molested by certain  so called   professionals .££££s 

the plate does have some limited slop on its chassis bolts ,  we spent a long time with a dremmel to get some clearance 

the pump plug was loose pumped the oil out rapidly a number of times after revisits to the repairer . easy to spot , pig to resolve 

a quick 15 seconds run on stands showed the pump squirt leaker . and all adaptor case nuts were finger tight well ..loose

it will make the chassis quieter when the plug contact is cured

Pete.

 

[Adrian]

Sod it. Can it be done insitu or is it best to remove to avoid damaging the OD? Or remove to check everything else

[NonMember]

I think you'd have to at least jack the gearbox up a fair way - which means the tunnel's coming off and the propshaft detached. Once there you may as well remove the plate from the car to do any mods.

Another possibility, depending on how your general alignment is, would be to adjust the engine mountings to move the whole lot forward a quarter inch.

[Adrian]

I think I’m going to yank it, Dremell it and see what else. One job always turns into many as this all started with brake pipes (now done with dot 5, but yet to test so maybe MC as well). Next the carbs as discussed elsewhere. Then Turn car around to free up a little extra space on the passenger side.....oh for a bigger garage, hydraulic lift, etc!

[ahebron]

Hi Adrian
I have one of those gearbox drain plugs with the magnet and it too leaks. Its a little bit less with plumbers tape wrapped around it a few times but next time I might try the loctite pipe sealing stuff that i have used on other things.
My o/d is J type and h a home built mounting bracket that leaves the whole underside of the gearbox clear till directly below the mount. It bolts underneath the flange on the chassis rails utilising the original holes

Adrian

[Adrian]

I do find it quite amazing, reading through other threads as well, that there are elements of cars that just don't line up consistently. An engine, a gearbox and an overdrive, nothing there that has any variability so with very predictable measurements between fixing points. Makes me wonder why they don't line up, unless the plate itself has some wriggle room. Will have to wait and see!  (I realise that the plate isn't actually a fixing point).

[Badwolf]

Watch out that the plugs are actually the correct ones. I ordered a replacement hex head with magnet and crush washer. No way was it correct. Back ti the old mangled one til the next oil change.