Paulfc Posted July 27, 2020 Report Share Posted July 27, 2020 Hi, Decided to oil the lower steering swivels on my recently bought TR6. Had to buy a grease gun and opted for a small Clarke (040211135) unit. Cleaned the nipples, loaded the gun and realised it doesn’t have a coupler nozzle to grip the neck of the nipple just a hole at the end. The WsM says put the oil in until it “exudes from the bearing”. Problem is, I can’t really tell if the oil is actually going in or not. I’m not convinced it can if there’s no coupler to grip the nipple. Can anyone please tell me from where I should see the oil exuding, and, can a grease gun work without a coupler nozzle? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted July 27, 2020 Report Share Posted July 27, 2020 There's a rubber domed boot over the connection between the vertical link and the trunnion, oil should ooze out here. The gun came without a coupler nozzle? Odd, you sure it's no still in the box? Not fit for purpose otherwise, a grease gun that doesn't work! You can get nozzles on Ebay a couple of quid. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulfc Posted July 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2020 Thanks Doug, l’ve just spoken to Machine Mart from were I bought it and the response was stunning, “Yes, it doesn’t have a coupler. You can see it doesn’t if you look at the picture on the box”! Nowhere does it say there’s no coupler on the web site/advertising. As you say, how can it be a grease gun if it doesn’t have a coupler? They’ll take it back and credit me, just another 20 mile round trip, so annoying. I suppose it’s really my own fault for trying to buy ‘cost effectively’. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 27, 2020 Report Share Posted July 27, 2020 An American friend recently had a similar problem. His solution was to drill the spring and ball bearing out of the "Zerk", the grease nipple, and connect using a length of clear plastic tube. Then he says, he cane see the oil flowing in - bubbles - until it comes out of the top. Then he removes the Zerk (!) and replaces it with a threaded blanking plug. I believe that plugs were originally in place, but often get forgotten and the nipples/zerks left in. This way, little pressure is needed to flow the oil. My car had lost its plugs, so I now have welded up nipples as plugs. JOhn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted July 27, 2020 Report Share Posted July 27, 2020 A lot on here favour old Swiss made Wanner grease guns sold on Ebay 2nd hand for £10 to £20. They are very good and an cope with oil unlike a lot of modern guns. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted July 27, 2020 Report Share Posted July 27, 2020 I use the method described by JohnD. You only need a pump type oil can a length of suitable diameter plastic pipe and an oid grease nipple with no ball or spring. It doesn't take much pressure to fill the trunion with oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted July 27, 2020 Report Share Posted July 27, 2020 I do the same I leave the permanently drilled out zerk in and put small plastic caps on them the type you buy at Motor Factors for fitting on unused emission Connection points. I have an old oil can with a brass internal pump and a screw in nozzle which is replaced with a grease gun flexible pipe with hydraulic nozzle, as stated elsewhere the oil is easily pumped thro the trunnions the little plastic caps Are a tight fit and have always stayed on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 27, 2020 Report Share Posted July 27, 2020 2 hours ago, PeterH said: I use the method described by JohnD. You only need a pump type oil can a length of suitable diameter plastic pipe and an oid grease nipple with no ball or spring. It doesn't take much pressure to fill the trunion with oil. Brake caliper bleed nipple does the same job. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted March 17, 2021 Report Share Posted March 17, 2021 A few years ago I owned a 13/60. I bought an oil gun commonly used in marine mechanics, from a chandlers shop. Priced around £20. The oil used for this gun is sold in a "toothpaste" style tube. It simply screws onto the gun . It is relatively clean & mess free . In use it forces oil through the nipples. You can refill the empty tube with warmed oil if you choose to. The gun is designed for oil use specifficaly & is smaller than a grease gun. At first use, I renewed the nipples & applied the oil, I left the nipples in situ & had no further clogging problems. Sadly I cannot recall manufacturers name. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 18, 2021 Report Share Posted March 18, 2021 Just remove the nipple completely and use a cheap oil gun, one of those with the soft rubber tip that costs about £1; this can be pushed into the threads to create a seal. You don't need pressure to fill the trunnion with oil, it should flow in easily as you pump the oil gun and will overflow out again under the rubber seal. If it comes out round the nozzle just press it tighter. A 3/8 bleed nipple will also fit the threads; just put a length of clear hose onto it and from there to the oil gun. Afterwards replace the grease nipple or make a blanking plug from a cut-down 3/8 bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted March 18, 2021 Report Share Posted March 18, 2021 Just to add to Colin's info. I have found some trunnion seals to be quite a tight fit and therefore can restrict the flow. A lolly stick pushed up the side of the seal can help with this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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