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Posted (edited)

Hi.  Just replaced manifolds gasket and took the opportunity to flush system (block plug very free, pours out) and change the coolent, which was very clean, as it was last time I did this.

Heater open, car jacked up at the front. Took about 8 1/2 pints. Then started engine and ran for about 7 mins, with some higher revs to spin the pump.

Level didn't drop at all.  Inlet hose to heater quite warm and return luke warm. Stat opened top hose warm, though didn't seem much water in it and didn't swish the water in top of rad when squeezed. Didn't feel like much water in bottom hose when squeezed.

Manifold hoses are correct I think. Top stub hose to heater inlet valve. Heater return to middle stub. Short bottom stub to return pipe under manifold.

Had no problem when I changed coolant a few years ago.

Manual specifies 11 pints. 

Any advice please (I did a search, though couldn't find anything.

Thanks Dave  

 

Edited by daverclasper
Posted

i reckon its best to always fill from empty not part empty and fill with the engine running 

its unlikey you drained the heater matrix so 11 pints is probably always going to be less , 8 sounds like you have an air lock

have you loosend the upper heater hose and pulled it apart to let any air out ??

Pete

Posted

I have to open and close the heater valve a few times with the engine running to get flow through my heater and then top up a bit more later. I think it works by the flushing effect of suddenly opening the valve which then pushes any trapped air out and I usually do it while driving...

Posted
1 hour ago, johny said:

I think it works by the flushing effect of suddenly opening the valve which then pushes any trapped air out and I usually do it while driving...

I think you need revs to make the pump work harder to flush the water through the system.

Dave the same thing happened to me with my MK2, I used the same nose in the air with engine running etc but when I took the car for a spin the temperature gauge went ballistic. Basically I was measuring steam! When cool I filled it up and all has been fine. Take it for a blast round the block plus Johny's trick with the heater then recheck.

Iain

Posted

I like Pete’s idea of pulling the heater hose to release Any trapped air the heater is the highest point in the system.

older Renault’s R8/10 had an air bleed on the heater matrix, I’ve fitted the same using a modifies Yorkshire Tee on my Vitesse on the Valve inlet for the same purpose.

Air locks can be a pain in the arse and in water supply ie mains parlance sometimes the only way to get rid of it is to drain the system and recharge!

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