PatK Posted January 1, 2021 Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 12 minutes ago, NonMember said: If it's an original type gauge (later model with voltage stabiliser) then it's a bi-metal strip with a heating coil. It's not polarity sensitive and it'll cope with 12V across it no problem. If it's the earlier (no stabiliser) type then it may be polarity-sensitive but is designed for 12V so again, no problem. Thanks I will give that a try. Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 1, 2021 Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 7 minutes ago, PatK said: I'm looking for a white square well it shows up on my laptop and looking at the price on the one colin loaded its best left for next christmas Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 1, 2021 Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 23 minutes ago, PatK said: Thanks Colin, I will give that a go. I was very impressed with your details of how you are attempting to cure the tub sag in your Herald convertible. I have exactly the same problem with my vitesse and I have just bought two 5"wide very heavy ratchet straps, and wii have a go in the New Year. Like yours it is the offside that is worse, but if mine keeps springing back like yours, then I will grind the paint off at the bottom and apply heat as the first measure. Thanks Colin. Pat Still ongoing! You need heavy ratchets and be careful where you attach them; I had to jam substantial lengths of wood behind the wings and down into the bottom of the footwell behind the b-posts, which I secured in place with a large self tapper and penny washer through the seat-belt mounting hole. It's too easy to bend metal or pull out the spot-welds if you do it incorrectly so what you brace it behind is very important. As the b-posts pull in you can see the floors drop, the tunnel seatbelt mounting moves down in relation to the chassis mounting, but springs up again once pressure is released. I have a professional bodyworker not far from me who was to call over and advise but Covid is delaying nearly everything in my garage at present. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatK Posted January 1, 2021 Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 28 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: Still ongoing! You need heavy ratchets and be careful where you attach them; I had to jam substantial lengths of wood behind the wings and down into the bottom of the footwell behind the b-posts, which I secured in place with a large self tapper and penny washer through the seat-belt mounting hole. It's too easy to bend metal or pull out the spot-welds if you do it incorrectly so what you brace it behind is very important. As the b-posts pull in you can see the floors drop, the tunnel seatbelt mounting moves down in relation to the chassis mounting, but springs up again once pressure is released. I have a professional bodyworker not far from me who was to call over and advise but Covid is delaying nearly everything in my garage at present. Thanks Colin, I'm sure we are all waiting with bated breath to see the results and hear how it was done. Good luck and keep us all informed. Thanks. Pat 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted January 12, 2021 Report Share Posted January 12, 2021 As an Aid. Try looking at:- https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/6697-rear-tub-spread-dimension/?tab=comments#comment-86501 This was back in the year when I was trying to get the gaps right. They are much nearer now but as yet not where I need them. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 12, 2021 Report Share Posted January 12, 2021 Thanks Pete; handy to know the measurements but it's like my trouser belt - I can draw it in considerably, but on release... everything jumps back out again. I need to keep it there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted January 12, 2021 Report Share Posted January 12, 2021 1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said: Thanks Pete; handy to know the measurements but it's like my trouser belt - I can draw it in considerably, but on release... everything jumps back out again. I need to keep it there. You have to overpull, the "belt" very carefully. I had several "tries" before I got anywhere near. When I get outside again. I will re-check the dimensions to see if it has moved again?. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 12, 2021 Report Share Posted January 12, 2021 had to pull in around 2" to gain 5/8" on spring back with the timber and stud puller much creaking and cracking , and watch the deck panel start to buckle Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted January 12, 2021 Report Share Posted January 12, 2021 It`s true what Pete Says. 🙏 I`ll tell you is VERY nerve wracking. You keep wondering just when something will "give". Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted January 12, 2021 Report Share Posted January 12, 2021 If it does give it might it be at the panel join on the rear deck just in front of the C pillar on a saloon. Thats where mine went Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 13, 2021 Report Share Posted January 13, 2021 just to add with tub spread you can also see the gap around the sides of the boot lid close up or even foul up . just to my original odds and sods spread reviver Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted January 13, 2021 Report Share Posted January 13, 2021 15 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: just to add with tub spread you can also see the gap around the sides of the boot lid close up or even foul up . just to my original odds and sods spread reviver Hi Pete . I thought if you reduce the distance between the B posts the boot gaps would increase ? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 13, 2021 Report Share Posted January 13, 2021 yes sorry if unclear like yours i was talking post recovery , if you have tub spread you can also have a tight boot lid fit as B posts spread outward it moves the rear wings inwards is that better pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 13, 2021 Report Share Posted January 13, 2021 Thankfully the Estate has no rear deck; I'm just hoping that after all my work the rear hatch still fits... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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