Iain T Posted March 1, 2021 Report Share Posted March 1, 2021 6J needles works in my modified engine. I think they are standard in a mk1 Vitesse. The 6ACs in a Mk2 where too lean on accelerating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadgetman Posted March 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2021 8 minutes ago, Iain T said: 6J needles works in my modified engine. I think they are standard in a mk1 Vitesse. The 6ACs in a Mk2 where too lean on accelerating. Did you have a damper spring fitted ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted March 1, 2021 Report Share Posted March 1, 2021 Yes, no idea what grade. I changed the needles to see if it fixed the problem before playing with spring rates. Seems to work but I haven't given it a good run to properly confirm. The AFR meter tells me the mixture is correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 1, 2021 Report Share Posted March 1, 2021 think there are only two stromberg springs dependant on the wire gauge (diam) but there are 4 different weight diaphragm clamp top rings eg the 1600 has no spring but a much thicker top ring Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadgetman Posted March 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Ok so a day of tinkering... so the mixture was made 1/4 turn richer but made no difference on a run. After a bit of thinking I put an inductive timing light on the plug leads. It showed up a miss every 10 seconds or so on #1 cylinder, it was obvious when I slaved a plug into the lead and you could see the spark as erratic. . I couldn’t be sure if it did it on other cylinders as well. So condenser replaced- no change, rotor arm replaced no change, plug leads replaced, - no change, coil replaced - no change , distributor cap changed - no change..... even tried the spark plug incase It was shorted out.... guess what.. no change! so has anyone any ideas????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Well theres only one component left unchanged although difficult to see what could be wrong with it but like somebody famous said: Discount the possible and whats left.... the points Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Lucas or Delco dizzy? Are these black rotor arms with a rivet..... they are ALL rubbish. Get a red one from the Distributor Doctor. You need one even if it’s not the fault! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 check the coil 12v polarity is correct ie neg to dizzy white ign to Positive check the brush in the cap is in contact with the rotor Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadgetman Posted March 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2021 Just had a brain wave this morning... I wonder if I’m loosing the +ve supply to the coil or the voltage is low, easy check and a dodgy high resistance ignition switch could cause it or bad wiring to/ from the switch. Easy to prove with a wire slaved in from the battery +ve straight to the coil +ve and give it a try! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted March 8, 2021 Report Share Posted March 8, 2021 A fellow club member has had an issue with his Mk2 Jag it wouldn’t start after Tach issues, he finally determined the problem the spring on the points was bowed and touched the baseplate it took him a couple of weeks to sort it after replacing all but points. Things do come out of left field to bite you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted March 8, 2021 Report Share Posted March 8, 2021 16 hours ago, Nick Jones said: Lucas or Delco dizzy? Are these black rotor arms with a rivet..... they are ALL rubbish. Get a red one from the Distributor Doctor. You need one even if it’s not the fault! 100% agree, when I took my car to a rolling road the guy said sumfings wrong there's a slight missfire. The rotor arm, which looked fine, was arcing. He replaced with a good red top which sorted the problem. He identified the problem straight away as he is 'old skool'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted March 8, 2021 Report Share Posted March 8, 2021 I phoned Distributor Doctor and a complete overhaul and calibration for a 22D6 it's about £195 plus vat. Not cheap but good work never is! By arrangement you can drop your dizzy off at 9am and collect later that day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadgetman Posted March 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2021 Yup he did a great of mine which makes me think it’s a coil supply voltage issue. Sounds like a job for lunchtime tomorrow ( one advantage of working from home ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadgetman Posted March 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 I sent the distributor back to Martin at Distributor Doctor and it seems either my coil or condenser was faulty and it caused burning off the points ( more than likely the coil ). He replaced the condenser and points free of charge and I bought a new flamethrower coil from him. 1 week & 250 miles later it’s still running like a dream ! I sent the distributor on the Monday and it was back by the Wednesday all fixed! can’t ask for better service than that from Martin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 31, 2021 Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 burning points and blown condensers and arced rotors, fails dizzy caps is often is having a 1.5ohm ballasted coil fitted to a 12v 3 ohm system this bumps the current to double the expected and downstream parts give up Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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