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Head gasket set Spitfire 1500


petegardner_901

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3 hours ago, petegardner_901 said:

is the Payen worth the extra?

Historically I would say yes.  There have been some issues with the Payen six cylinder gaskets for recessed blocks in recent times for sure and I've seen the odd hint that it may be affecting 4s as well but no proof.

+ 1 on the re-torquing but I'd do it after 2 or 3 heat cycles and then again after 500 miles.  Also, invest in a set of the flanged nuts from Minispares......

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Cylinder_heads/Studs_bolts_nuts/C-AHT287.aspx?100409&ReturnUrl=/shop/Classic/Engine/Cylinder~heads/Studs~bolts~nuts.aspx|Back to shop

.......as these will actually hold the torque.  If you still want to use washers (not strictly required with the flanges nuts) then use the proper hardened ones that won't deform.

 

Nick

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13 minutes ago, petegardner_901 said:

As always great advice - thanks all.

One other quick point - any thoughts on skimming the head while it’s off the car? I’ve heard the 1500 can be a bit bottom end weak so maybe this isn’t worth doing?

Pete

Skim head , if warped or you want it to look clean! Slight increase in compression ratio. Thought the longer stroke affected bore ware more than bottom end. I rebuilt a 1500 engine and did 20k hard miles in it and it was still fine. Had skim on head and ported myself, ran on mobile 1 when it was 5w40 no problems till they changed it to 0w40 then the oil light would flicker at tick over . Changed to a 10w40 full synthetic. Payen gasket set, did not think they were expensive, never had a problem with them.

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I waited for the "new" Payen  AK260 1500 gaskets to become available. By that I mean the ones that are now being made in a different factory, in the UK.  Checking both types side by side by side they look very similar but the new ones look to be slightly better finished. They can be identified by a very small shiny hologram on the gasket packaging and the label having "made in England" printed on it. 

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