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Brake drum will not fit hub


Stu_HR
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I'm attempting to recommission a '78 1500 that has been standing for 10 years+. I've refurbished the brake and clutch hydraulics and discovered the LH brake drum has two cracks in the surface that mates to the hub. Having bought new ones, I think I may have  found why the cracks are there - neither the old or the new drum will fit over the centre hub and I think the previous owner just tightened the wheel nuts up to force the drum on.

 

I've reversed the drum to makes sure it is not fouling on the shoes, etc. and they very nearly fit - it seems to be a fraction out and the drum rocks on a particular plane. If I rotate the drum. the point at which it rocks remains static, suggesting that perhaps the hub is slightly out of true.

 

Has anyone experienced something like this?

Getting frustrated now and tempted to dig out the dremel grinder attachments...

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There, s a high chance the hub face has been distorted by poor removal techniques

they bend quiet easiy

if you can have it removed a machine shop can reface it

 

you may if you tap the studs out get some improvement with a flat file over the face

make sure the studs are not binding in the holes , you can open these up the spigot controls the drum

not the studs.

 

pete

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Should it prove the hub flange needs to be removed , it will normally evade removal like the plague

a dedicated puller can often be defeated

Its this stubborness that gets the flanges distorted

 

if you can effect a flat face with a file great!! But if not get hold of the proper puller

 

Borrow from local area of buy one from club shop/ebay etc.

 

Pete

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I've just removed the studs by refitting the wheel nuts and using a rubber mallet to gently tap around the flats, then the end and repeating this process until they incrementally drifted out. None of them were particularly stubborn so I don't think I've introduced any more distortion into the flange.

 

I've put a steel rule across the hub and boy, were you right, Pete! Across a central plane, the flanges of the hub are set back from the centre, giving over 1mm of see-saw action when I locate the drum on the hub. This explains why the old drum was cracked with the wheel bolts torqued down!

 

Not something a file is going to help with and now I'm wondering if its beyond repair...

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at £12 thats a good buy if the threads not knacked 

 

 

Pete, The £12 is to rent it, not buy it !

It's the version that Sponmon sells on Ebay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/sponmon/m.html?_ipg=50&_sop=1&_rdc=1

None listed at the moment, but he makes them in batches and lists them.

It's very effective, I have one - but make sure you use the thread protector on the end of the driveshaft thread otherwise it gets damaged by the enormous crush force during the pulling operation.

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Didnt read it that carefully,

 

herts and beds rental is much cheaper and much closer

 

we still would ask for a deposit, someone wrecked the thread , it has a new replacement

Just waiting to be used

 

 

 

Stu, if you get to the crown shillington on monday night I can bring it along

 

let me know

 

Pete

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Pete, that would be marvellous and a damned good excuse to get out to Shillington. Obviously, I won't be in the Spit but it will be great to meet some fellow masochists enthusiasts after all these years as a silent TSSC member.

 

How much do I need to bring for the deposit?

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  • 1 year later...

Hi

 

Can I "Bump" this thread, I am into a full refurb of a `71 Herald 13/60. And have come across the same issue, the Hub is resisting ALL attempts at removal including a 10t press and heat!. The end result is that I too can see distortion in the flange. I need the hub off to refurb the damaged parts (Backplate and grease retainer).

 

Has anyone local to HULL. got access to the type of puller required. OR anyone got a Photo(s) of the Puller?. I have access to welding and machining kit and may be able to fabricate something that will work. IF I know what I am looking at?.

 

Cheers

 

Pete

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If it's the one I'm thinking of then there are certainly modern variations around, in fact someone on eBay was actually renting one a while ago. I'll post a photo of the original plus the modern replacement. You ned to pull the bolts, not the edges of the hub which leads to distortion.

post-151-0-43222700-1500577542_thumb.jpg

post-151-0-27080400-1500577567_thumb.jpg

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Local one man band engineering firm made one for me many years ago from a piece of heavy duty pipe with a flange on the end, looks very similar to Colin's. Originally had it to remove the drive shafts from the font hub on a 1500FWD, long since gone, but I still have odd bits never can seem to through them out.

Leave the nut on the end of the shaft as the hub can came flying of if the nut is not there to stop it.

 

Regards

 

Paul

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Hi

 

Thanks for the info, I have most of the Bit`s I need kicking about in the garage I am sure. Hopefully some welding and a bit of Lathe work will produce a satisfactory Answer. Once removed a light skim should true the hub back up.

 

Cheers

 

Pete

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi.

 

Finally got the Hub off. the Mk3 puller worked!, (5" weldable pipe flange, 2-1/2" Galvanised Pipe 1" BSW Threaded stud with 2 nuts, and a lot of rather scruffy weld!), with the judicious use of the 7lb hammer!. (Mks 1 and 2 failed, But I have to admit my welding was not of the best!.) I had to Modify a bearing puller to remove the Trunnion, but the surfaces look as if they will take a new Needle roller. Hopefully the last damaged threads on the shaft can be recovered. Does anyone know what the thread form/dia actually is. I am thinking about 15/16 A-F?.

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Hi.

 

Finally got the Hub off. the Mk3 puller worked!, (5" weldable pipe flange, 2-1/2" Galvanised Pipe 1" BSW Threaded stud with 2 nuts, and a lot of rather scruffy weld!), with the judicious use of the 7lb hammer!. (Mks 1 and 2 failed, But I have to admit my welding was not of the best!.) I had to Modify a bearing puller to remove the Trunnion, but the surfaces look as if they will take a new Needle roller. Hopefully the last damaged threads on the shaft can be recovered. Does anyone know what the thread form/dia actually is. I am thinking about 15/16 A-F?.

post-1569-0-02460200-1501496344_thumb.jpg

post-1569-0-43067000-1501496368_thumb.jpg

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