46 1/2 The ultimate Answere, to life , the universe and Herald Body Tub Spread

[Richeee]

Before i start work on my restoration of my herald 13/60 tub, am going to weld a brace in. Reading other threads understand that the required dim is 46 1/2 inches.    Just need clarification as where to measure this from.   Took a couple of photos today and believe that the correct place is fom the upstand on the wings just by the B post. Measuring 49 on mine.

Or is it the seam on the B post itself which measures 46 1/2?

This is probably a coincidence and i could not be so lucky.

 

Or do i measure somewhere else. ?

Seems i might have to get some ratchet straps out and squeeze it in by 2 1/2 inches.   

Any help appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Colin Lindsay]

Mine was measured from the seam on top of the wing.

[Richeee]

Thank you. 

  Rereading some of the various threads again it seems that the right dims appear to be when the doors fit flushly.   As my tub is off the chassis and has no reference points like doors etc , I will squeeze and possibly over squeeze until i get the dim of 46.5 and then weld in a brace.  Hoping both sides come in equally.  Got to start somewhere. 

It will remain in place for quite a while whist repairs etc are undertaken, hopefully the body will then stay like it.

Ta.  

[Colin Lindsay]

One thing I noticed with my attempts - in fact a few things: firstly the body will flex against the chassis before the wings ever bend inwards. You can see this if you take the centre tunnel seatbelt mounts out, and watch how the tunnel moves downwards when force is applied. up to an inch! I had actually debated moving the seatbelt mounts to keep the tunnel down as this did help the wings move inwards, or raising the chassis mounts on the offending side rail.

Secondly - you need to make allowance for movement somewhere, so that metal is not fighting against metal. If you put force on, something will give and possibly not the proper place so you may end up with a crease. I still have one wing of the estate to finish and am considering slitting the metal bracing at the bottom of the b-post, or any other area that I can identify, until the wing bends in, then rewelding. Otherwise: it just springs back out again! The passenger side went in first time and stayed in, but not the driver's side, and it has gradually gone back to the original position. Something more permanent needed.

[Pete Lewis]

 awhile back but we measured /got the  46.5" dimension from the waist  flange top of the Wing B post  same as Colin shows 

do watch  the rear deck panel as this can bow upwards as you pull the sides in

and its a deeper panel on  CV or Coupe than saloon it stiffens up everything

lots of creaks and groans doing all this  .

Pete

 

 

[Richeee]

Reading the last couple of posts have left me with a little trepidation.     

Initially i was going to squeeze the body whilst off the car, as it now is.  Then send if for dipping. 

But on 2nd thoughts will just temp brace as the tub is now , wait untill the bulkhead is bolted on the chassis. Repaired the door bottoms and reskinned the doors and then squeeze whilst the tub is in position on the chassis, with doors fitted so that i can see how other areas are affected and bracing / support / straps can be introduced as i replace rear wings outer and inner.  

Thanks guys and gals for posting back.  

Appteciated.

 

[Pete Lewis]

think thats a good plan  as all are a bit age varied having the doors on means you just pull to correct the flushness not aim at a precursor dimension that 

may be a pull too far ....or not 

Pete

[daverclasper]

6 hours ago, Richeee said:

But on 2nd thoughts will just temp brace as the tub is now , wait untill the bulkhead is bolted on the chassis. Repaired the door bottoms and reskinned the doors and then squeeze whilst the tub is in position on the chassis, with doors fitted so that i can see how other areas are affected and bracing / support / straps can be introduced as i replace rear wings outer and inner.  

I did wonder if to mention doing it last. There could be other discrepancies within the body and the doors after many years, especially if its had previous work?

[mark powell]

On my pick-up conversion, I have cheated...  The body sides are bracketed to the roll over bar, no more tub spread for me!

The rear tub was pulled into the correct dimension, then a bar welded across before it went for blasting.

[Wagger]

My saloon had the 'Eye' bolts holding the seat belts in. I replaced the belts with inertia type but can now use the 'Eye' bolts to pull from floor to sides and across the car with ratchet straps. It still keeps going back to where is was after a month or so.

As with the Pick up shown, I believe that only fitting a roll cage will stop this.

[Pete Lewis]

we did ours with the body on it took inches of over pull to keep it where we wanted it to finish up  it lasted for a good few years 

no idea what its like as sold in 2015

Pete

[daverclasper]

21 hours ago, Wagger said:

It still keeps going back to where is was after a month or so.

I wonder if that's a call to remove a thin wedge, at bottom of B Post, pull in, weld up, as Colin was wondering?. I saw mentioned in the Courier a few year back, when the member had done this on a Bond, I though it seemed a good idea, as less metal stress when pulling and maybe won't relax back after?

[PeteH]

This is how I did It. It`s still where it was left. But you have to "overpull" an allow it to relax a bit.

The "spanstrap" is 10t rated and was wrapped right around the tub and chassis. (and quite literally, "fell off the back of a Lorry"🤣)

Pete

[Richeee]

Thanks everybody , definitely food for thought.     Liked the idea of the eyebolts in the seat belt fixings and Pete,s above with a strap wrapped around the wing and 45 degrees up from the opposite door way so one side can be aligned at a time.     Had a butchers at my B post this afternoon to see how assemble and welded together.

In this Photo , have inserted a knife between part of the B post and the heel board.    This part of the B post is welded to the floor and the vertical piece is not welded until the top of the heel board.   Same for the other side. The knife could be slid up and down. 

 

Now a photo from behind this position.

So not welded to the heel board behind this part of the B post.   But he other part Of the L shaped B post buts up to the end of the Heel board and is presumably spot welded here.

 

The outer  part of the L shaped B post connects to the external wing and outer wheel arch.

When it comes back from being dipped at the beginning of June, and as I have realised not before will attempt to squeeze in. , Will first repair, reskim the doors and fit the bulkhead and doors to the chassis.  Fully expecting to  have to fit new rear wings and outer wheel arch's amongst other bits that dissolve away.   So removing them will release part of the b post.  If the weld above the knife in the top picture is released and perhaps the spot welds below the knife where the B post is fixed to the floor , it should be possible to squeeze the B post in. Align with the door and then replace the outer wheel arch and rear wing.   The B post can then be rewelded to the heel board and floor, locking into position.   

Not to be to caught up about 46 1/2 .   Just make the doors and wings look right.    ( Should the bonnet be on as well to get the front of the doors aligned with the bonnet or is this taking it to far ? )

Anyway , that's my cunning plan.   Suppose time will tell.   All conjecture at this stage till I get the lace curtains back from the dippers.

Thanks for input.      

 

 

 

 

[Pete Lewis]

its possible to bend the lower wings on the bonnet so if they are proud/flush there is some means  to improve 

with some grunt and sweat  its common that if a repair has been done here the curve of the top of the wing is shallow

which can make the wing extension become anything but flush 

Pete

[PeteH]

Hi. This is from the Triumph Owners Handbook. if of any use.?