SpitFire6

Hi, never known anybody use wire diameter for conductors. Americans excluded. 2 x 2mm CSA is better than 1 x 4mm CSA. More so at AC. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Nice thread. I would not use solid to bridge contacts. Stranded every time. Less "heat" needed to solder. Less chance of heat damage if pre-tinned in situ. You will find some in your house. It might be tinned; faster soldering. Very flexible. Very easy to bend around contacts. Better resistance contact. Can be made rigid with solder. Never understood PVC insulated solid copper wire. Does it belong in the past like ring-mains? Interested in other views. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Adding a cable from the battery -ve to starter motor body will be a plus. With the engine running & everything on/running/illuminated, measure the voltage between the center of -ve battery terminal & alternator body. Measure between the center of +ve post & output of alternator at the source. 100mV or much less is good for the -ve. With the engine off & everything on, volts between the center of -ve battery terminal & chassis/body will tell you what to bond. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, would an extra rear wishbone bracket shim increase the tyre clearance and still keep camber and castor in spec after readjusting tracking? Cheers, Iain

Something like this?

Hi, can't go wrong with motorway driving & regular six-month oil changes. I thought the Triumph recommended oils were capable to turn to sludge in the less ventilated modern engines of the early '80s? More modern oils of the mid-'80s reduced this? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Most of my continuous loads off the ignition (White before & green after fuse) are relays. Pre "Relocation of the tell-tale lamps & conversion to LED's", I had to have the blower running for the engine to stop... A diode on the alternator fitted between the ignition light feed, it cured it. It increased the charging voltage slightly but worse it increased the required cut-in voltage. I took it off and kept the blower on. People working on the car would call me & ask how to switch the engine off. I knew they had switched the blower off. Telling them to push the window washer puzzled them. The alternator diode is now an integral part of the new fascia. The engine always stops. But, now the blower is the source & not the cure?? I guess it will now stop quicker then it ever has. Yes, It stops quick! Dave, I'm surprised this is historic as surely the 3-ohm coil would pull all the power from blower fan and alternator thru ignition bulb? Lucas, I guess. Cheers, Iain

Hi, I have a used 1500 map reading light somewhere. I do not think it is a GLB233. GLB233 is a bayonet type? Cheers, Iain.

Hi Dave, That's a clever idea. I have a USA LHD steering column. This would be the White/pinK wire? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I now notice that the blower/cabin fan is keeping the engine running for hundreds of milliseconds when I switch the ignition off. I can either fit a diode in series with the blower feed or refit the adjustable speed controller again. The fan is out of balance anyhow as it plays havoc with my phone/car-cam when running at full speed. Ordered more warning lights with black legend plates as present ones, excluding the main beam are not readily noticed when active. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Practical Classics & the extra zinc has sold me. Thanks. Iain.

Hi, If you are doing about a 1000 miles a year with long drives & live in a tropical climate 20W50 mineral might be all you can buy at a cheap price. If you use the frequently recommended 20W50 grade oil or follow the 60-year-old recommendations, change frequently. The cheap ones will break-down a lot, over extended mileages. Castrol GTX is good modern oil for that grade. Personally, I would not put 20W/anything in a car engine. Don't worry about the ZDDP hype. About modern oils being more skinny; if that means they flow better, is that bad. Cheers Iain.

Hi Richhl, How is the engine? Burning oil? leaking? Oil pressure greater than 15PSI/1000 RPM when engine hot? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, all the modern cranks I have seen are shell bearings. The grinding wheels that grind the cranks are hydrostatically lubed. No replaceable shells as there is never metal to metal contact. It's not the pressure that is important for minimal wear; It's the flow. A reason why pre-oilers will decrease wear. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Thanks for that. A useful feature when it all goes off the thread I guess. If the OP or anybody remembers who it is; please ask the Original Poster to contact me. Thanks, Iain.

Emm, Not TSSC? Just checked. It was here... Cheers, Iain.

Hi, anybody know why I get the above when I was trying to read a post I had posted in & wished to post. "MK3 GT6 Popping & banging" I have tried on different machines & browsers. Do I need to start a new thread? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I use silicone grease on all my rubber seals. Brings life back to old seals. I use a different grease on electrical low & high power, old & new connections with great success. Cheers, Iain.

50 quid is painful.

Hi Colin, I see that Comma have other 20W50 oils that might work out cheaper if you do a lot of miles? The other oils also have a higher viscosity index helping keep oil pressure. Cheers, Iain.

Hi Johny, Ahh, there appear to be more than two types of Penrite 20W60. I was referring to the SHELSLEY LIGHT 20W-60 (Mineral). I didn't realize there was more than one selection for this viscosity range. Cheers, Iain.

Hi Colin, Maybe use an oil with a higher Viscosity Index VI? They will remain stable and not vary so much in viscosity over the engine temperature range. Cheers, Iain.

Hi Johny, The oil is classified as API SC oil. Triumph recommended that the oil for our engines was minimum SD and sometimes SE. I can post the API spec if you can not find with Google? The viscosity is a different matter. Cheers, Iain. PS. Kak, in this case, means, even if it was free its a poor engine flush.

Hi, I was not trying to start a Syn/mineral oil debate. Use what you are happy with. I was trying to say that the Penrite mineral oil 20W60 is kak. SHELSLEY LIGHT 20W-60 (Mineral). The oil should not be used in an engine that was built after 67. Enough said. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, do not use grease if it contains hydrocarbons. Do not use Redex or WD40; They will damage the rubber boot if left on. Use silicone grease. It will protect the internal boot connection from corrosion & aid boot removal in the future. WD40 is ok to clean the leads & boots, but don't leave it on. Great on rubbers. All rubbers. Not wipers. Use sparingly and wipe off to remove dirt. Sorry if I missed the joke. LOL. Cheers, Iain.