SpitFire6

Hi Dolomitejohn, your oil pressure looks good If this is with 20W50. I would not put thicker oil in it in the belief that it will increase the already good oil pressure to a better figure. It will not. I would avoid Penrite 20/60 mineral oil as it is substandard for a Triumph Engine. The Penrite 20/60 syn is a better choice but in your case not required. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I have another center dash & a 52mm hole saw. I have a new rotary light switch I can fit where I want with the correct connections. It has three spades as OEM switch. I need to cut central to old switch hole. A piece of aluminum glued to plastic will suffice to the center pilot hole? My stock of plastic center dash panels is getting low. Limited where I can fit the new light switch as cables short. Not sure if extra 52mm hole will be oil temp or pressure. Cheers, Iain.

Hi Colin, My perceived straight lines and measurements have always been bad. Cheers. The stepper motor with a few selectable curves built in was about £25 of eBay & from China. The very fast response could be used with a car alarm. LOL I have a 30A rotary light switch I might fit and replace OE switch with an Oil temp stepper motor. The single wire temp sensor meter is not wired up & will be replaced by a stepper motor water temperature gauge; just need to fit the two wire sensor. Stepper motors are overkill, but linear, accurate & cheap. Cheers, Iain. Edit. The lights are pretty crap with the roof down & sunlight. All black & >14mm would be better. A feed that said the engine was rotating would be even better for sounders.

Hi, I bought an aftermarket speedo a long, long time ago and of course, it did not have lights for Ignition, Oil & main beam. I relocated the 3 lamps to the dash. The car was rebuilt & the three lamps moved to a lower mounted 3-hole bracket that was not easily viewed when in the car. Alternator belt vacating the car & not seeing red ignition light wasted 3 hours of my life and battery. Had a spare center dash panel so decided to fit the three new M14 LED’s there. Wanted to fit LED’s to front indicators to complete the full conversion to solid-state. Was unable to as the Triumph Spitfire/GT6 single tell-tale will not allow this. I fitted two tell-tales & fitted two diodes & an open relay to give me a click click. Fitted a diode & 47R resistor in parallel to allow the ignition light to function & stop the alternator powering the ignition feed when ignition switched off. Still to fit a diode & buzzer to tell me if oil pressure light is actuated while engine running. Forgot. Diodes are too big but have loads of 6-amp ones. 7 wires. 5 with male spades & 2 with bullets to fit into the indicators feed. Falling in love with cordless hot melt glue gun & isopropanol to easily remove. I know it looks like crap & the spacing is wrong. Call it the mk1. Good until I get the touch screen fitted, so good for many years. The car now drives better & quicker. Placebo effect massive. Cheers, Iain.

Hi Richard, I thought no hazard flasher light was MOT failure? ********************************************************************************* It's a shame that Triumph managed to turn a two position switch with synced illumination in one position into an expensive nightmare. If my hazard switch stopped working, I wouldn't buy another of similar design. Cheers, Iain

Hi, the orange and green HT leads shown in the previous posts; Are the green one's copper & the orange one's carbon? Cheers, Iain.

Dynolite oils are an interesting read. The gearbox/transmission oils; Two 85W-140 oils. Both GL5. One has sulphur. One EP & one not. One will reduce noise but WILL wear on something that is worn. Mine whines on acceleration and has not changed for 5 years. My symptom seems difference to everybody else. Filled with redline 75W90 & later MolySlip additive. Noise same. I might just try an 85W140. It will not by a Dynolite oil. Cheers, Iain.

choo choo

Whats that slang for matey? Iain.

Cheers, I have discovered a new word "Moquette", Some nice seals & loads of info. Thanks, Iain.

Hi, seals & pads are a problem to buy. Suppliers quoting OEM numbers & not supplying OEM parts. Parts 716184/3 seals cut from a roll with zero furflex. Rear pads that cost pennies to manufacture. All at OEM prices. So, the 624747 and 624748 seals appear to be most important. Thanks. Has anybody got any pictures of these handed parts? Silicone rubber sheet is cheap enough to buy. Thanks all for the information. Iain.

Hi, Many thanks. I never saw that. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Mine does not & could find no part # for such a thing. I have several metres of the bulkhead to bonnet seal. I guess I could use this with a little silicon grease? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Was going to create a new thread, but I will hijack this, please. I have all the correct fasteners, tubes & washers etc. I have the short tubular mountings as the hood has to stay in the car. I am not going to be able to sneak it into the house as I have no more space. An additional reason for keeping hood in the car is the cost & availability of the long tubular brackets. I will remove the rear soft top plate/canvas, so the soft top is only connected to frame. When I mount the hardtop with the 8 screws, Is something going to stop the rear bottom of the hard top scratching the rear car body surface? Thanks & cheers, Iain.

Hi, If your engine is "OK". If you do not drive for long periods at high RPM & a lot of cold starts; What about changing your plugs to hotter ones? Plugs will be cleaner & you could be happy? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, While on the subject of rain proofing. I painted all my door cards several times with impervious water-based wood varnish. Several times. While the XYL was out. Cheers, Iain.

Tut Tut. Cheers, Iain.

Bag from oven-clean kit works fine as it's strong/thick to seal in chemicals that will eat you. Cheers, Iain.

Hi Mjit, A belated reply. An interesting Idea. The first step is to find a 3D image of the lens. Free or cheap would determine if the second step begins? Cheers, Iain.

Hi Johny, Anode & cathode could be + or -, it depends on what the subject is. But, Electrons Always go from negative to positive. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Forgot to say that the electrons will travel from center to earth electrode on a normal/correct coil. With wasted/spark/ distributor-less system. (But not COP); half the plugs are reverse fired; electrons flow from the ground to center. Plugs firing from the ground electrode will wear out faster & precious metals on the center electrode serve no purpose. Precious metals on both electrodes are available at a cost. Cheers, Iain.

Is it safe?

Is it safe?

Hi, to answer your question about spark plugs. The spark is always designed to jump from the centre as this is the hottest of the two surfaces. Lower HT volts are required. The ignition coil has three terminals but 2 internal coils like the transformer it is. Primary is always the screw or push on terminals. Secondary step-up is the tower & one of the primary terminals. The HT to + or - dictates the coil polarity. Ignition coils are made for positive ground or negative ground vehicles. (Nothing to do with voltage or ballast.) It's good our cars are -ve ground; Better & cheaper automotive electtornic stuff. Cheers, Iain

KitKat foil and an amalgam filling. Loverly.