Paul H

Thanks Tom for the info , I’ve made contact with Watling and they offer the bolts though the price of £30 ish seems a little high plus there was no offer of a fitting guide. I’ve asked Dave for a copy of his instructions. Which part of the diff does the main bar fit to ? Paul

There was a guy selling new lens covers on Facebook recently but the price was very high over £30 each 😱 Paul

Hi Dave many thanks for info and confirming it’s a Watling tow bar. I’ll make contact with Watlings and ask for a parts list and instructions . I didn’t realise the riggers needs a tube insert though it makes sense as the tow bar is tubed as well Paul

Hi just bought a second hand tow bar for my Vitesse mk2 . I placed the Wanted ad with TSSC , very useful for sourcing . my research suggests there are 2 types , 1 where the tow bracket is bolted through the rear valance and 1 where the bracket comes under the rear valance. Mine is the former I believe . There are no instructions , any tips about fitting appreciated . My pic shows how I think it should go with the top bracket bolted to the diff , the short cross piece fitting through the boot floor . The other longer section bolted to underside of the rear hangers . Finally the tow bracket bolted through the rear valance and the 2 sections bolted together I was surprised as to the weight and specification of the 2 sections as each section weighed 6kgs plus Any fitting advice welcomed Paul

Welcome to the forum , a good bunch of guys here and a wealth of knowledge available Paul

With the heater control box out it’s easier to remove the gear box tunnel . Your tunnel might be the original fibre board type or a more modern fibreglass / plastic type . Paul

Mech-Mate provides a range of extras to make your inspection pit even more practical. See how a sliding jack beam can enhance your pit. Paul

Thanks Pete, just checked and I’ve got steel shims Paul

Hi Pete , what do the “ dreaded antisqueal sticky pads “ look like ? Paul

Forgot to say use a hose to keep the dust down and empty as much of the garage as possible Paul

I had 2 ground workers to do the hole . 6 hrs later it was finished , the concrete was 100mm as were the planings . I made up templates for the pit so they were able shape the hole . The back filling will be done by myself and a neighbour, I will chicken wire the hole add damp proof membrane then back fill with concrete . The base is the first job getting the pit level with the garage floor securing the pit so it doesn’t float up . Before any concreting I will be adding the lighting as there are recesses for 3 bulkhead lights , switch and fire extinguisher . The pit is a sit down one as it is 1.3 metres deep and I have to make a seat base which slides along the lower ledge . The next ledge takes a tool tray . You can buy these as extras though they were expensive so making my own . The skip was a 6yrd and was about 2/3 thirds full . Paul

Purchased the mech mate pit and had the hole cut today , next job is to back fill . Paul

I used Silent Coat on my Vitesse . Much cheaper than Dynamat Paul

Hi Tom , yes MGF , and well worth doing as now have head rests and reclining back. I took the opportunity of adding heated seats ( Waeco Land Rover ) . Paul

Planning to replicate the back plate with plastic sheeting then adding fixing bolts, unless somebody has a simpler solution . The plastic sheeting is strong enough Paul

Just bought this one £6 delivered ! I love a challenge Paul,

The gearbox cover on my Vitesse is white and I have have several attempts to paint black but chips every time until I used Lidl underbody spray . This works as the paint is flexible and provides a good finish and looks the part . Price less than £3 per can Paul

Not going to Stoneleigh this year , I’ve seen picks of the backplate and can copy, though hoping for an easier solution Paul

Hi just purchased the square AA badge for the radiator grill . The badge came without any fittings . Any suggestions how to secure to the radiator grill of my mk2 Vitesse Paul

It would hold 2300 litres of water Paul

POR 15 from www.frost.co.uk. Very expensive but well worth it . Paul

Another vote for Bilthamber Paul

Are you changing the bearings ? If so shims are more likely to be required Paul

This article from Canleys might help https://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/rear-end-noises I found it useful especially note 4 . The rotoflexes are unbanded , are you going to compress them ? Paul

I’ve added a second strap from the battery to the starter plus added a Hi Torque Starter from the Club Shop. One of the best investments I’ve made Paul