ahebron

I imagine Compo wouldn't have objected to Nora doing that.

I am glad you found the insulation spacers. If you need to make some then this stuff does a grand job https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Novotext I had a pair made for a set of Amal carbs we are fitting to a non-Triumph and the the carbs stay very cool even when the engine is hot.

Thanks Dave that has reminded me they are missing on my car. I did try gluing a sound pad on the underside of the boot lid but the super strong spray adhesive was not.

John I would advise playing with the height of the seats. I found the 10mm flat bar did not lift the MGF seat high enough to clear the floor coverings and allow me to push the seat back to be comfortable, I am 6ft5. I was tempted by 40mm box section with possible headroom issues but settled on 30mm as the lowest I could get the seat and still have full movement without fouling the tunnel seatbelt fixings. Read above my alterations to the MGF tracks.

I am assuming that the hubs have been removed from the car as no one mentioned the oxy/acetylene, hacksaw and BFH.

In New Zealand you would make do with a length of number 8 wire

I bought a set from Spitbits a couple of years ago. I have fitted them to my saloon as an extra door brace, the doors used to pop open on roundabouts. But on the NZ assembled rear tub I needed to fit the backing plate in the door pillar and the dimples didnt line up.

Have been working on fitting Mk1 Amal Concentric carbs to a non Triumph, I think I mentioned this a while ago. Interesting that the sparkplugs have not liked us fiddling with the carbs and started to make the car almost impossible to start and we kept working on the carbs thinking it was them causing the problem. We have been taking the plugs out and cleaning them but still not that great a difference even though they still had a healthy spark from the magneto. I got a couple of sets of new plugs and put a set in and the car started instantly so we have to undo all the carb alterations and start afresh. With new plugs it is now a tuneable engine. I have been told by mechanics that they do not clean plugs anymore just replace them as they cause problems once fouled.

I dont know if this is what Pete was meaning but a strip of metal fixed to the bulkhead trimmed to the correct shape then attach the cover to that would surely be an easy fix.

I have moved mine around by myself shifting it sideways etc. But it can be done with two.

Thanks Doug I think I have found it and have reset it. Under notification settings I had managed to tick A notification when new content is posted

Thanks for that Colin. That is why I made the stainless steel plate that fits inside the top of the side valances, the photo looking down into the side valances. It has the 10mm return on it to keep the side valance rigid when it is bolted up so it gives a straight line instead of 3 pinch points, the nuts are welded to this. Once it was bolted on I used the hot air gun to heat the panel and bend it to meet the rear valance, cooling it with compressed air. I went and took photos of the rear of Mk2 to see how its valances sat on the car. I was just after the seams below the bumper overriders between the rear and side valances being parallel and as snug as safely possible. The Cleco tools are a godsend when doing panel work What you can see on the rear of the car is the valance catching on the spare tyre wheel well. To sort that I think I will need to clamp a bar behind the valance heat it then pull it forward a touch.

At present thats all there is to see on the rear of the car Richeee. It will be a wee while before I get them painted etc.

I made the brackets to pull the side valances straight to the body and bolted the valances up today. I had to get them folded on an industrial folder witha 10mm return then cut them out of the 1.2mm stainless sheet. When I bent one in the vice the hammering induced a curve in it and the metal was too thick for my shrinker to pull it out. One big problem was the left side was out by about an inch at the bottom of the rear valance. Over lunch I googled how to fix this and to my surprise I found out that you can carefully heat fibreglass to reshape it. It is obvious when you think about it being glass reinforced plastic, every day is a learning day. Ignore the crooked boot lid it is not shut properly. Repairing the front valance is the next job!

I have started receiving random thread emails from the forum. They are for new subjects that i have not seen or are in my followed content. What have I done to receive these and how do I stop it. The ones I from this morning are here

Utilux spade connectors should still be available from an electrical wholesaler. I still have some with screw terminals in my kit. Be careful with the online sites as some of the crimps are thinner gauge metal but they do have the different sizes as well so it is a catch 22 situation I do not like the coloured crimps as I cannot see under the insulation and do not like the fact that people use sidecutters to crimp them. But even though I do not like them some times you have to use them so I have a ratchet crimper for them or I will pull the insulation off and solder then cover with clear heatshrink

There are no software costs I am aware of. I use Cura as a slicer, this is free. I use Fusion 360, this again is free version. Yes you pay for filament but 1kg of PETG or PLA is not that expensive and goes a long way. The added costs come when you start to modify it but the it is like a car in that you modify it to improve it to a point you are happy. A lot of the mods you print from Thingiverse The basic Ender 3 is a very competent machine and out of the box with a bit of fiddling to set it up it can print as well as the high end machines. Photo of my Ender 3 in the housing I built doing a 3 day print

As I have one steel rh valance with the bit under the cover missing and a set of new fibreglass rear valances I am fitting the latter to my Vitesse 6. Attached are some photos I took today of the dry fit with my clecos. Concerns are the gap between the valance and the side of the guard but will see whatb happens when I get the bolts in, I am expecting it to crack. My plan is to cut out some 1.2mm stainless steel to fit inside the right and left valances and fold a small return on it, tig weld nuts underneath it to line up with the holes and bond it to the panel so it pulls up evenly hopefully. Off to get the nuts and bolts for fixing these to the car on monday and will experiment with SS tig welding At the front I have a rusted and mildly damaged steel valance and a damaged fibreglass valance. I will rebuild the glass one using the steel one to make templates for the missing sections and then rebuild the steel one. I have made the templates out of 12mm plywood and replicated the 2 mounting brackets on the ends of the valance and the 2 that connect under the chassis out of 1.2mm stainless steel and will bond these to the panel when I fit it. All the fibreglass panels I am using are made in NZ, steel ones would have be bought in from the UK. I have some bits of 1.2mm scrap SS I am using.

Hijacking your thread Bfg. I was given a box of bullet connectors and joiners, they all looked like standard Lucas type but there are 2 different sizes. The larger being the type for our cars. What is the smaller version for, not much difference but you cannot fit the larger male into the smaller female and the smaller male rattles a bit in the larger female.

The Fiat 130 (V6) I owned in my early 20s had a horn switch for city and country

As Pete says its the 3 vertical spokes that make the difference. I have had a look at both suggested options and I cannot find any with the spoke number But with a bit of a random search engine entry it turns out to be a steering wheel from a PV Volvo. The question now is how did it end up in NZ as I am pretty sure they didnt import them here.

Does anyone recognise this steering wheel and know what car it is off? Splines look small chassis size and diameter is about a Herald wheel. It is an interesting steering wheel but has a crack in the rim at the lower spokes

This has all just reminded me when I was in a mates TR6 3 cars behind a Spitfire driving down the road when we heard and felt a loud bang. Thinking the TR6 had a problem we stopped as did the other cars. It turned out the Spitfire had blown its diff which probably was due to the Daimler 250 motor that powered it.

Yep its easy peasy as the others have said. And you can make the ignition, boot and glovebox all match but that can be a trickier, have a box of lock bits will help. I believe there are only 4 different pins in the locks in our cars and many others so it is just a variation of these.