Colin Lindsay

It's so you can reach the hole you've cut in the tunnel for topping up the gearbox oil. Without losing both ears.

Get the glass in first, dropped down onto the door bottom; then fit the runners to the door and around the glass so that the glass slides up and down. Then get the glass right to the top, prop it there out of the way and fit the winder mechanism. Drop the glass down and wind the winder up until you can engage the mechanism in the sliders, then fit the door catch and lock mechanism. I think!

TSSC NI getting out and about in the Comber and Killinchy areas of Northern Ireland. Changeable weather, light rain and very cold winds when the sun went in, but some great roads and great scenery including Killyleagh Castle and the first attempt at a panoramic shot on my cheap camera. Roughly 140 miles there and back, and nothing dropped off either myself or the car...

The steering column is also off-set... not bent, as some would call it, but it angles upwards towards the outside.

The dimpled ones screw on and off too, you can adjust the depth they sit into or out of the dash by tightening or loosening either the dimpled bezel or the nut behind. It may be that you can attach the bezel then push the cable through and tighten from in behind; all depends if you why you want to remove in the first place ie you can remove the bezels etc but leave the other end of the cable attached. If you're removing the entire cable you can undo from behind and push it out the front.

30 all round on the GT6; I actually dropped it from the 32 the tyre fitter had originally. There's slight understeer but I'll put that down to the front anti-roll bar.

That's just how I see myself.... Fill 'er up and give me twenty Woodbine, would you? Stuck in traffic for hours, Fred, all these cars rolled over these days...

No, much higher and the wheels do not move as low when reversing; I've just fettled a few things and hope I've cured it. I wound white masking tape round the axle and drove for fifteen miles including some reversing en route and no marks on the tape at all. The fixed spring is much more comfortable than the swing spring, you hardly feel the bumps at all and I've reset the rear Spax so things seem to be going well. I was able to get the trolley jack in under it on return so it's definitely higher at the rear. Approx 140 miles to do tomorrow, maybe more, so here's hoping it behaves itself.

Update: replacement spring fitted today, I've gone back to the 8-leaf fixed spring in the hope that it doesn't sag as far. The brake hose was very tight to fit with the axles hanging, but on settling down back onto all four wheels it's as bad as ever. That's a new rear hose in stainless, the old one was quite badly chewed... So: no idea what to do. If I bend the bracket I risk damaging the metal brake pipes, and besides the brackets are on the correct spot on the chassis. It's only on the one side, too; the other is fine.

https://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/1-4-unf-a2-grade-stainless-steel-countersunk-slotted-machine-screws/ Have a look round Spalding Fasteners' site, I just searched 1/4 UNF setscrew and got too many to list.

There's an old traditional tune called the Pipe on the Hob... the composer must have been working on his exhaust or something.

Surely Christmas is every year?

You can reassure your friend that if the rear of the panel can be accessed (it can in the Herald range) then a nut on the end of the bolt will do perfectly.

I've never had a ballast system so only read up on it recently due to a car I was working on, which has been quite crudely converted back to non-ballast. Am I right if I stated it as a 12v system where only the ignition part of the system is reduced to 6v in order to be able to boost it to the full 12 during starting, and only during starting? However the rest of the system must be permanent 12v for headlamps etc. I've heard it claimed in the past that the entire car runs at 6v, as in some early VWs, so there is a lot of confusion out there.

Modern equivalent: https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/b-post-striker-plate-securing-screw-3 it's also listed elsewhere as 1/4 x 1 1/4 UNF but see below: Parts catalogue shows KX4707 which is listed as: 'cross recess flat countersunk 80 degree head 1/4 x 7/8 UNF.' I think you've plenty of space in behind if it's slightly longer than original.

I've been using Millers, probably because it's stocked locally: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311778001209?hash=item48976ac139:g:c6UAAOSwjYldly-T

The two-slot versions have a bezel-removing tool, but I've never seen one specially made for the 'other' version with six dimples (top right in the photo)... that tool did manage to grip them eventually but it was difficult and did mark them. If you can get access in behind them pushing the switch forward, as if out of the dash, it may loosen the grip that the chrome bezel has and you can unscrew it by hand. Otherwise it's a case of trying various tools, adaptors and grips to avoid marking the dash veneer. Sometimes you can disconnect the actual switch and rotate that in behind, which is easier to grip, but be careful with it; they break easily.

That's how you spread contagion in the first place.... Does this pic help any?

Is there another rubber seal missing from that front edge?

Probably the same as the one I'm trying to identify...

It took three men and two ladders to get that one hanging on my garage wall.... I don't know if I'll want to take it down again later in the year... I think I'll just leave it there like a Banksy-style arty thing.

I have one along the lines of this style: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363401635259?hash=item549c6ce5bb:g:wn8AAOSwClBgo62z Be careful when rivetting the side trim rivets into the panels, when the gun pops it can jump forward and knock a surprising amount of paint off...

Part number 21H5479 for the bolt - but no-one selling them that I've found so far. Have you tried Mike Papworth?

At present I'm waiting on a supplier to get back to me with carriage costs for a pair of rear shocks "We'll get back to you on that"... that was last Friday. Another supplier wants to add 10% handling charge but yet another one, from whom I recently bought a full set of front shocks and springs, told me he'd waive the postage. There seems to be no standard about carriage these days, it's each to his own. eBay seller of the moment is vidaxl-uk who post free to UK mainland and Northern Ireland, but charge extra to Scotland and Islands. They sent me a sheet-metal folder on free delivery whilst other suppliers think £7.25 isn't enough to post a £40 engine sealing block and want more.

The housing is indeed just a hollow, shaped housing, a channel for the water into which the impeller for the pump sits; all the workable bits are in the body of the pump itself.