Colin Lindsay

You adjust the height of the bonnet as Dan says by raising or lowering the rubber bonnet cones at each top corner. If it's at the correct height and still rattles then you can lower the bracket on the side of the bulkhead that the bonnet catch hooks into, very slightly, by loosening the two bolts / screws and adjusting up or down.

Lower engine bay - block and sump only, plus front suspension areas, and usually just to wash off oil or road debris to clean parts I'm going to be working on. A pressure washer will find leaks and loose paint that you never knew existed.

Basically the same head; manifold and cam were uprated for the faster engine so you'd really need to source the entire kit or alternatives.

Top two videos aren't loading but the movement / noise in the lower is hopefully normal as it's the same on my GT6... Do you get a clunk as you reverse?

That's the only hint I've seen in any internet search so far, but is this for the earlier Mk1 model? Something about that post made me think that it was.

Not a Triumph I know but very very nice. Never located the owner to see if he was local.

Can't help with the dates but looking forward to seeing the videos.

Great colour scheme, isn't it? I'm hoping there are still plenty of cars hiding about the country, it would be so depressing if there wasn't anything new waiting to appear unexpectedly.

Could be, Mark, but to me the simplest way of testing anything is to connect a new set of cheapie horns to the terminals - if they work, happy days. Problem is that I can't find the old horns to reconnect the terminals. If that doesn't work then it's off with the steering wheel - I just love airbags - and work along the circuit from there.

Hopefully you got the e-mail I sent last night showing the holes from underneath; going by the two you've marked in red, the lower one ie closest to the camera in your photo is where I would put the first / furthest away screw, so the next hole would be closer to the camera. I'll repost the photo I sent just in case.

The oil filler cap always used to be full of mayonnaise / toffee-like stuff. They could have bottled it and sold it, no doubt.

No customer, just a very close companion... Rear spring tunnel lower edge repair section, rear footwell corner repair... that sort of simple easy little panel...

I saw that pic and got seriously worried... have I viewed that car before? Thankfully, no - it was THIS one... but there's a striking similarity in that side view. Mines a 1200, though.

No... but I can't prove that they're not there until I find out where they're meant to be, and then confirm that they're not there.

How about making up sections for other people to weld in??? There are so many areas that no-one seems to make panels for, and the suppliers who used to don't answer their e-mails any more...

Just spent hours working on a 2015 Freelander; gave up on the oil change as firstly I couldn't find the filter and secondly the large skid plate under the engine wouldn't come off due to one of the bolts being rounded off. I'll have to wait until the lift is free (or take it my local garage where I'll supply the oil and filter, he can have the hassle and usually only charges me about £40) However the horns aren't working. I've no idea if it's the fault of the twin switches on the steering wheel, or the horns themselves, as I can't find them. I was all over / under / around the engine for ages with an inspection lamp and can't see them at all. Anyone know where they are?

I'm a wimp, I was out in the Mondeo with the air-con on. Great gardening weather tho, all my grass is now cut so I've got time for the garage all the rest of the week. It's to be poor weather later in the week and at the first spit of rain the grass will be two feet higher in seconds...

These are quite good; they stay on by way of two elastic straps so will clip to almost any existing mirror. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362999704831?hash=item548477ecff:g:1T4AAOSw-jxexfCr

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294190021039?hash=item447f1779af:g:cDwAAOSwvB5gmqbZ £20 carriage for this one.

There are any amount of companies who will make one to your own specification. I had some window stickers made up recently, for a local Triumph Dealership that's been gone 40 years, just for the nostalgia factor in my car. If you know of any local Dealerships that you'd want on your own disc, see what info is available and if you can find a logo or original item online they'll copy it.

You could buy some of the seat belt protectors, the ones that clip on with velcro which are designed to pad out the belt against your shoulder, and keep it down there rather than up at the shoulder. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174579302094?hash=item28a5bcbece:g:w08AAOSwoS9f7w9i

A small, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch length of brake pipe worked for me. The longest that will fit over the shank of the rivet and still allow the rivet gun a good grip.

Later ones did, early ones had just the speedo aperture plus smaller holes for the wiper switch and turn indicator.

I presume it's the holder you want, to take the original disc? eBay is full of them, some nice period items: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373594563769?hash=item56fbf8a4b9:g:atQAAOSw8AdgYKCE Plenty of Triumph ones too: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224105588255?hash=item342dbbe61f:g:GTAAAOSw5Spbw1Ji

Morning Graham; two methods of attack here - if you can't undo the cables in behind them undo the black knobs (there's a pushbutton on the side, press it in and whilst pressing pull the knob off) then by unscrewing the silver bezel you can push the cable back through the dash. This might be easier for the choke and heater valve cables. The other cable might be one piece with a nut in behind, so if you look in the footwell by the steering column you'll see the large flap control that directs heat, just above the gearbox tunnel, and you can undo the short cable down there then remove it with the dash. The wooden dash fascia is screwed to the back surround and the heads of the screws are easily found, but the gauges can be either screwed / clamped just to the wood or else to the backing surround - I've seen both over the years depending on whether they've been disturbed before or not. Some of them also have a metal 'rim' which acts as a strengthener in behind and against which the long clamps are tightened. If it was me, I'd remove both gauges before removing the dash, it makes it lighter and less easy to bend or crack when moved.