Colin Lindsay

What's the price? I've got a good air wrench but the compressor makes a lot of racket and disturbs the peace... so could be talked into one.

FR code is late 1500. You can see that linkage in the top left of this photo: That, to be truthful, is the sum total of my gearbox knowledge...

The radiator screwable tap does fit; but the larger brass taps are available from suppliers if anyone can confirm the thread size? A lot of other classics including stationary engines and tractors use them as well, but I suspect the size and thread may vary.

Will happily PM; many thanks for all your effort.

It may also be that one is hitting the flywheel as it rotates, so has been spaced too far towards the front of the engine, but there's no marking further along the teeth to show that it's actually been meshing, so you may be right that it's just engaging the tips. Removing the spacer will mount it further back towards the gearbox, so it will clear the flywheel teeth, but then it has further to go to be drawn forward to engage the flywheel. The one in my centre photo is too far forward so when pulled into the flywheel on starting, it's actually hitting the flywheel ring gear with the body of the Bendix. You need to find the correct distance in between!

If it points to the right as you've photographed it, it's driver's side. Just the one I need... name your price!

By the throbbing of my thumbs, something Triumph this way comes...

Just noticed you're in Swanage; are you close to Corfe and Corfe Castle? Love that place...

Part number 122400 listed as NLA for years but no-one sells the rubber pads either. Chic Doig remakes the pivot mechanism (available from a few other suppliers too). For the rubber pad you can either cut and fit any kind of rubber sheeting from hardware shops (bound to be a suitable rubber mat to cut strips off) however Austin Healey / Frogeye Sprite cars use almost the same mechanism, and the pad is available for their cars. It looks to be pretty close. I think VW Beetles also use the organ-pedal style arrangement and it looks amazingly close? Beetle left, Sprite right below: Beetle version is about a fiver off eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Classic-T1-Accelerator-Throttle-Rubber-Pedal-Pad-T3-Beetle-Ghia-Camper-Bus/162922870168?fits=Car+Make%3AVW|Model%3ABeetle&hash=item25eef5b598:g:2bwAAOSwNplalovE

We're a 9-tooth starter gear; Minis and the like are 10. They'll work but they won't mesh exactly and will skip over some teeth with the corresponding wear; but that sort of wear takes a long time. Where is yours wearing? If it's not clearing the flywheel it will be worn away at one end, sometimes just a light scoring round the base of the teeth and if it's been shimmed too much it will be positively eaten away. Maybe you didn't require shims or a spacer in the first place? In the last photo there's no spacer at all; the first two photos show what happens when one is fitted and not required, and the Bendix teeth don't clear the flywheel; in the centre photo the actual body of the Bendix is hitting the flywheel, so being drawn too far forward.

Be careful! You're not really worried about the Nissan vanes - I broke the mount getting them off, but I think they're too big to fit inside the Herald case anyway. The original metal Herald vanes and some of the earlier plastic versions are held on with a spring clip which is quite hard to access; the later plastic versions have a four-pronged fixing that expands to let the spindle through then clamps onto it again. You need to ease each leg off and around but of course once you get one, the others spring back into place. Bend them too far and they'll either not grip the new spindle or else they'll snap off. Possibly heat in the form of boiling water may soften them. They're just very hard to access being down in the middle of the blower vanes.

Or a polishing wheel... shines up brass parts in a blink. Wonder what their digital calipers are like? They look the same as the ones I binned a week ago, which were incredibly inaccurate.

£12.56 (£15 with VAT on) direct from Burlen isn't bad; they're £32 per pair on eBay and £15 from Moss. http://sucarb.co.uk/abt-090in-jet-needle-spring.html

These are all from dismantled Heralds, one from an early 948, another from an early 1200; the other two are probably later 1200s ie 1967 and later. They're all bent! I'm wondering if they require even a slight degree of torsion when fitted hence one end two inches higher than the other; but new completely flat versions are available so that theory is out.

Interesting... I have four used Herald bars, was intending one for the current Herald but they're all raised off the ground at one end and all by the same amount. It's so uniform it looks as though they've all been made that way. Obviously the really solid (7/8?) GT6 roll bar is perfectly level but much too heavy for a Herald. I wonder why they all bend by the same amount?

Just remove the nipple completely and use a cheap oil gun, one of those with the soft rubber tip that costs about £1; this can be pushed into the threads to create a seal. You don't need pressure to fill the trunnion with oil, it should flow in easily as you pump the oil gun and will overflow out again under the rubber seal. If it comes out round the nozzle just press it tighter. A 3/8 bleed nipple will also fit the threads; just put a length of clear hose onto it and from there to the oil gun. Afterwards replace the grease nipple or make a blanking plug from a cut-down 3/8 bolt.

https://www.mgexp.com/phile/3/191288/REPAIRING_THE_STANDARD_RB106.pdf That one's a bit vague on some things; this is from Lucas: https://www.autoelectrics.net/RB106_dynamo_control_box.html And from the Triumph TR guys: http://www.trtriumph.com/Regulator adjustment.pdf So I hope at least one is useful!

Black and red together is a nice combination.

Not a chance; it was bad enough trying to cut my own Christmas tree. Sneaking about in the dark, trying not to make the slightest noise... then the chainsaw started up.

https://triumphherald1360.blogspot.com/2016/01/heater-fanblower.html Sorry about earlier; I was watching the smoke curling up from the grill, typing as fast as I could, and waiting for the smoke alarm to go off. The link above is to Darren Grove's modification on his blog. I bought the smart car blower for £7 off eBay; it's an almost straight fit to the Herald heater body with no cutting required. The only difference is that the vanes are huge and won't fit, so if you want to avoid cutting the Herald heater box you very carefully remove the original vanes from the Lucas blower motor and replace them on the Smart / Nissan motor. If you do it correctly they'll stay on, and will spin with no vibration. The problem is that they're usually fitted with a one-way press fitting, so it goes on easily but is a pig to remove without permanent damage. You'll find the Smart motor spins far faster than the Lucas original, so you can fit an in-line rheostat to give you infinite variable control; that's also covered on one of the other threads on here.

Thanks Steve; haven't found the time to rummage about in the roof storage yet, but any will be appreciated. More than one chassis I gave away had those attached; I never thought they'd be hard to find. I was convinced I had far more radius arms, too, but only found three. Still, only need two... One eBay seller claims it's easy to convert left hand to fit right hand; I suspect it involves a very large hammer...

I've just found that one of my sets of these is Spitfire and the other is two left-handed brackets. The Herald / Vitesse rear outrigger to radius arm bracket. I need the driver's side bracket; of course, it would be the one that's NLA from major suppliers. Anyone got one, in any condition - I don't mind sandblasting, derusting and repainting. I've found a NOS pair in the USA for $56, but any local? I can see an afternoon searching the roofspace... yet again.. but in the meantime I'm short one so all offers welcome.

I think I've found some - had to dash as was burning toast... but think these are the threads? I've fitted a Smart blower but the vanes are too big and require replacing.

I'm running rear Spax on the GT6 and I'm debating changing to Konis - who is the recommended seller (preferably one with no large overheads... ) The car is a little low at the rear (setting of 3 on the Spax) but gets lower in reverse, so low that the mudflaps trail along the ground, so I want to try to cure that.

I make my own... Or rather the four-legged eating machine does; huge quantities. Things are so desperate over here now with gardeners that a man has offered to take it all away, and wants as much as the horse can churn out. Brilliant! Saves me a lot of shovelling.