Colin Lindsay

Maybe she was hiding in the boot?

It should be like for like, there's only one way to connect the main wires ie cable from battery, cable to starter and the ignition terminal in between; unless there's an extra take-off / spade connector specific to your car that isn't used on any other model?

I had my original Delco and Lucas distributors refurbished by H+H Ignition solutions; the Delco has gone well ever since so not yet needed the Lucas. I changed to electronic ignition (the SimonBBC version) simply to avoid problems with points adjustment and wear, and to aid starting rather than performance. As you say, Pete, we get cars modded almost to Rally spec that never go anywhere but the town centre... it's always exciting to mod your car, add racy bits in the name of uprated performance, then you get to an age where you take them all off again...

Thanks Johny. It seems so obvious that there had to be a catch... I'll fit them tomorrow so will look out for the length of the tube too.

I might have to, Martyn. Obviously one is unusable as is, so I might as well replace both. I think that bracket will have to be carefully cut off then rewelded again; there's another bolt screws into that too. The pivot bolts seem to be available for Stags, TRs and possibly Spitfires; all I need is the size and I can source one - but, as you say, it's not in any of the parts manuals that I've checked so far.

Guys, I've got to ask just for peace of mind. It looks obvious, I'm nearly 100% sure I'm correct but there's always a catch in this life and I just want to make sure. I've bought some Polybush front trunnion bush sets for the cars I'm currently working on. Just confirm: that's it - just two bushes and a tube. I don't need those inner and outer metal cups around them - that's it? They take the place of the entire thing, not just the two blue plastic bits inside the metal covers? I thought I'd better ask before I go ahead.

Or the other side of the coin: waste of money. They come with a huge range of programmable curves - amazing! - then you find that you only use one. I had one on my MK1, binned it as being a waste of money and just put good electronic ignition into an original dizzy which at least did, as Johny says, have a drive for the rev counter.

i'm still working on the convertible rear tub and have noticed that on each side by the b-post where the hood fits, there is a single shouldered bolt inside a small rectangular bracket. As is becoming typical, one has been cut through. From the look of it I'm assuming that this bolt is placed inside the bracket which is then welded to the body, so cannot simply be pushed out and another pushed in; they both move about to a certain extent but may be originally welded to the bracket after insertion - I don't know which. I've no part number or other details; does anyone know the spec of this bolt, part number or availability? They're available for Stags and look the same, and also for E-type Jags so if I can get the part number or dimensions I may be able to find two: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322525172386?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-153316-527457-8&mkcid=2&itemid=322525172386&targetid=4585375810146220&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=398826042&mkgroupid=1308419096949548&rlsatarget=pla-4585375810146220&abcId=9300500&merchantid=87779&msclkid=b676c761069a17d50860a722b203b690

I think he did mention a coloured version; has all the benefits of stonechip and rustproofing but he says if anyone ever tries to remove it they'll curse me to eternity. I'll know when I see him again. It's just an option we discussed, but it'll be applied whilst the tub is off, and he's a professional bodyworker so it won't be to hide anything, certainly nothing that he did anyway...

They were originally held on by a small chain - you can see the little loop/bracket on the NOS cap - to stop them falling off and being lost.

No-one will see, apart from you and the MOT Inspector. I'm sending a tub off for sandblasting and welding shortly, and the bodyshop man tells me he'd like to undercoat it in the same stuff they use for modern pick-up loadbeds - matt black, rustproof and hides the welds nicely. Once you put the sills etc on, you can't see what's underneath.

... and my 1200 Estate was built. I suppose I could have been driven about in the back seat if we'd bought it then...

I used the front part; the loom behind the dash had been badly chopped apart, and the engine bay area had some exposed wire through damage, but the rear was ok, so it's still the original. This is the entire half loom from the doors back. As Rob has pointed out, the bullets are a different version than most of the solderable ones you buy today, but just open up or tighten (as required) the metal loop they're meant to squeeze into and they'll hold.

Last one I did (GT6) I fed it in from one side as easiest method for me at the time, but no reason why you can't start in the middle and feed each side out equally. Plenty of grease as you go makes it slide through the brackets a bit easier.

Couldn't settle, TV rubbish tonight so out to the garage again. I've found a large section of brand new wiring loom in a box marked Autosparks 1810 which is GT6 MK1 1966 - 68. Photos below. The photo with the closeup of the purple / black-white / green and reds seems to be where it joints to the front part of the loom, but it's very long and if it splits anywhere it's around the dashboard / passenger footwell area. The other end is in the bottom photo but there are no bullet connectors fitted for the rear lights; just cut-off cables so I presume I would have been meant to add my own depending on what type of connector it required. So: yes, it definitely comes in two halves.

Yep, I use it on both. Stops the bolts seizing in the metal, in case you ever have to remove them again, and also helps prevent wear on the rubber shock mounts without attacking the rubber, and makes them easier to remove too.

It may be; I'll confirm tomorrow. Reason I think it may be is because I have a large chunk or brand new wiring loom in a box marked 'GT6 Mk1' and I know I put a new loom into that car back in the day, so it may be the rear piece, although there's a faint possibility it could be from another area that was not required. I'll confirm.

That'd true; just because it drips off the lowest point doesn't mean that's where it's coming from - that includes the drain plug too.

Wins International have them for £20, allegedly good / used. Mick Dolphin also has used / pitted versions for £4.50. Getting seriously peed off with my Net search, anything I find is from years back and nowhere near current.

And - furthermore - it's a 'grub screw removal tool'... just in case you're searching for one. Just found that out, myself...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/triumph-vitesse-herald-petrol-new-very-old-stock/143965112759?hash=item2184fd49b7:g:OPgAAOSwt39gKtaW NOS but it's got a dent and is pictured on a car.... If you want a lockable type this one is certainly NOS: https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Triumph-Herald-Vitesse-Dolomite-lockable-fuel-cap-petrol-cap-gas-cap-NOS/143863273261?hash=item217eeb572d:g:IQUAAOSwTtVfv5Qz

Nice privacy glass, though.... Lovely work.

Sounds like the leads are too far round on the cap; try swapping them all round by one terminal and see what the timing reads.

I fell foul of that with my MK1 and the Mk1 saloon engine it originally had, and torqued it to Mk2 spec.... stripped three studs before I realised. It's a very confusing way of writing things. Now with the Mk2 engine I usually get it right... And the Mini nuts I mentioned are for the Heralds... Mini nuts in name only, as I bought them from James Paddock, who sells them as uprated head nuts suitable for cars up to GT6 Mk1, but doesn't seem to list them for the Mk2.

Sounds like our local pub on a Sunday morning, after the Saturday night...