Colin Lindsay

Very very close to that pulley! You're sure it won't move about as the car drives?

Now: the interesting question is: do you fit it in addition to the insulator block, or in place of it...

Those are much better; I like the profile of the top one.

I doubt it would work as a vacuum gauge take-off; if it allows that amount of suction it would seriously affect the running of the engine when it's just an open drain pipe. You can (used to be able to, anyway) buy adaptors that go between the carb and the manifold for a gauge takeoff. Found one! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solex-New-Carb-Vacuum-Gauge-Adapter/254578366469?hash=item3b460d9805:g:bxEAAMXQI5tRhN0T

Must be Chic's long lost brother, home again....

The actual body area here is in three parts; inner sill, strengthener, and outer sill. I was thinking that if rust has not gone right through to the outer sill, the panel below the door that you can see from outside, then it should be okay, but on rethinking it could be a new sill replaced over extensive rust. The more I thought about it, the more I realised it's an easy coverup for extensive rot, and the strengthener is exactly as it says, the support for the largely cosmetic sills. It could look okay from outside but be rotten in behind. Your inner sill looks fine but that rust looks to be the strengthener in between both panels; you may be able to see what it's like using a mirror and light through the holes in the inner sill but to be honest you might need to remove the outer panel, as Wimpus says, to see what it's really like in behind.

As you say not easy to get to; poke the outer sill in that area and see how bad that is. The inner part looks fine so if a screwdriver or hammer doesn't go right through the metal when you test it, kill the existing rust with Jenolite and either pour primer down into it, (which will come out over the sills so mask off round the drain holes) or else just pour Dynatrol / Waxoyl in to stop it getting any worse. If it's not so bad to be an MOT failure it'll soldier on for years.

This is one of the grubbiest I have; found it in the garage roofspace a month or two ago. The others are old typed pricelists I've had for many years now; don't cry over the prices, or the availability of repair sections... we were discussing Stan Walters on another thread recently, but what happened to Andrew Stone?

Top one is Herald, alright... not sure about the bottom one, unless it's very late with a more modern method of attaching the cable. Paul's just posted that photo above; it looks like the middle pedal but with no clip... should be easy enough to attach one?

I'd be very tempted to make a cheeky offer... but 'Er Indoors wants to know A) why I want another Herald, b) what's wrong with the ones I have, and c) how I'd get that one home during Covid. Oh, and you can add a d), she reckons I'd soon find something that needed fixed and it would be off the road too. The 948 was a lovely little saloon, a real original family car owned (I think) by an elderly man so it was stock original, never modded or molested, and driven at about 30mph everywhere. It's really not so long since I saw it last, maybe eight or nine years or so ago at a show, but it's really changed since then.

You need to be able to walk round; try shopping in Tescos from the front door only. You know what you need when you go there but you miss all the impulse buys that you never knew you needed. I have two great local scrappies I use, and it's not just asking for the part you want, but what you see as you walk round - radiators and radiator fans, heater units, seats, lights (especially hi-level rear ones); things that look as though they'd fit a Herald or other Triumph but that you'd never spot otherwise.

Store it somewhere off the ground; according to my local Autofactor nothing kills batteries quicker than being stored on a cold concrete floor. On a shelf or on top of a cupboard is better, but make sure they won't fall off and land on anything expensive...

I must admit that is why I use them repeatedly; I've never yet had a poor quality part from them but I'd have no hesitation in phoning and informing them. They're far more approachable and chatty than other suppliers.

That's a really poor profile. I would send it back, and alert the supplier that they're not up to standard. I had to nip out and check mine, then found out I've only got one for the Herald... but it's a boxed Unipart version and so the casting is much deeper - see photos. The cylinder is NOS but the lever is the only one I could lay hands on so ignore the rust. I had a quick check online but most of the currently available ones look to have that same shiny, almost deformed, look. I did find one original NOS version so snapped it up on the spot... sorry but thanks for the heads-up that I didn't have a pair! The versions on James Paddocks website appear to be squarer round that end, so presumably deeper too.

Today has been the Good, the Bad, and the... you'll see. The rear spring was finally sorted. First attempt was attaching it to the rear vertical links, then trying to bring it down to the diff. That failed miserably, even with the entire chassis lifted off the ground and the wheels hanging. Second attempt was removing one vertical link, lightly attaching the spring to the top of the diff, then trying to both attach it to the other link whilst compressing it down onto the diff at the same time. That failed, due to shortage of hands legs and weight. Third and final attempt was to bolt it to the diff, then raise each end in turn until the bolt could be slid through. It was eventually raised by use of a caliper piston spreader resting on a block of wood on the rear halfshaft. Spring is now on, shocks attached, and the axles are still tight to the chassis so resting on plastic pads to avoid paint damage. I'm hoping it will settle over time. Next step was to bring the rear tub back from the shotblasters. It's amazing what hides under the paint: this little factory assembly code number is clearly visible as A/TC 623, right beside the end of a welded patch. How I wish that had been the only patch. Yikes! The removal of the paint, filler and soundproofing has revealed the worst nightmare of patching that I've seen in years. I thought the ones I could see were bad. These are worse. These are only some of the worst areas. The entire car is a sieve. That first photo is of the seatbelt mounting point at the base of the B-post; I have a repair section for the floor at least. The shotblaster was happy with it; he claims it's very sound and should be no problem to repair, or at least to tidy up. I hope the bodyworker agrees. In the meantime I need repair sections for the rear spring tunnel, lower inner wheelarches, rear B-post to B-post panel, in fact just about everywhere. The Herald has now been officially christened. Patch.

The aquarium versions are only 99p, you can put them on the end of the line, or inline.

James Paddock. https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/fuel-system-5?pagenumber=2

I've just been working on these on my own Herald and have found that you can screw them right up to distort the rubber seal, which is too far for use on the car. If you rotate them backwards again from full tightness just enough to go back to the position where they'll be when fitted to the car they can feel a bit tight, but still turn through the degree that the steering will turn on the car. (Make sure you oil them first, just enough to make the turn freely) Don't forget that when fitted they'll probably never turn as far as a complete right angle. If you rotate them off a full 360 degree turn it leaves a slight gap at the top of the seal but they turn more freely, and this is what I've gone for at present - so it's more like a full turn backwards. Wonder if I've backed off too far? Now I'm getting paranoid... but in the previous position they grated and left small marks on the metal above the threaded portion.

I detest them. Full of electronic gadgets - you can run your bath from your car on the way home from work - yet the interior trim is really cheap tacky plastic and chrome of the type you used to get in 1960s transistors radios. There's no soul any more! I do miss rummaging round scrapyards with a spanner and a screwdriver - you went in looking for one part and you bought half a car as the bits they had were better than the bits in yours... but now you have to go to the counter and ask, and some guy in a full Haz-Chem suit goes out and removes the rear wiper for you. Saw the most beautiful Saab 93 convertible on Saturday last, being dumped under the Scrappage scheme - I'd have given it another ten years on the road.

I've only had 17 moderns in my life, but I've always kept cars for a long time. I get comfortable in them!

Buy another one from any Aquarium supplies; they use them in fish tank filters and they're very cheap to buy.

Industrial-sized ratchet straps will do it; I'm just back from the garage having fitted the rear wheels and lowered it down to settle the rear shocks. As the spring lowers, it pushes the tops of the links out but everything else stays the same, so I'm hoping that a heavy strap round the diff, pulling the spring down to where it can be bolted, will do the job and result in outwards movement rather than downwards so the halfshafts will stay up off the chassis rails. As the links pivot around the rear trunnions so the camber angle of the wheel stays more or less the same. Fitting the wheels and new tyres for the first time in 13 years should have been more of a momentous occasion, but it's too early to celebrate.

I reckon that but for lockdown I'd have a local source of them already.

Some dizzy figures that might help (bottom row)

I know how you feel. I had a disagreement with a friend a month or two ago over an ill-fitting part, where his proposed option was to take shears and trim the metal. In the end I had to forcefully put my foot down, we got it to fit without trimming but it left an awkward atmosphere for the last hour or two. I just couldn't stand back and watch it being bodged, even if it had the desired end result.