Colin Lindsay

Your new floor should have the same contours as the original, so do these pics help in determining where it goes, according to the channels in mine?

And... as I've requested / hoped before - can we limit the size of the signature? Certain other Triumph forums have signatures that are over HALF THE PAGE long, and I don't see why we need someone to post one line, or even one word - 'thanks' for example - and then add their entire life history and all of their cars below so that we have to scroll down through it to find the next post! One signature I've just read is 38 lines long and the owner has posted three times on the same page, so that's 114 lines devoted solely to himself in between which we have to determine the actual point of the post, and when everyone does it it just eats up pages with repeat information. Please use the 'profile' section at the top right!

So... if we go off topic.... can we call it.... Continental Drift?

0.9!!! 0.9!!! Missed the nought. Was going to say I missed nothing but I obviously missed something.

I had to refresh mine a few times (Mac Safari) as it was coming up like this:

The horse trailer weights about 9 metric tonnes, just under an Imperial ton, so no huge worries but it's a four wheeler and it's really only to lift one wheel an inch off the ground while I free up the brakes, which have a habit of sticking when it's not used for a month or two. I'm just wondering if this jack is saveable and if I can improve on the original...

I bought a 6 ton bottle jack about 2 years ago in order to work on our Ifor Williams Horse Trailer; I didn't reckon my 2 - ton trolley jack was up to the job. I spent £25 on one of these from a local tool shop - they were on special purchase offer - and on first use, it started to pump oil out around the neck at the base of the ram. I put no pressure on it at all - the smaller tube came up, made contact with the underside of the axle, the larger one came up and as soon as it struck the lifting point it just sat there while oil came out round the base. No lifting, no heavy pumping, just gentle pressure. I took it back and got a replacement which worked - once. First time no bother, second time maybe six months later, same fault - before it even tries to lift, or take any strain at all, oil comes out round the base of the ram. The tool shop is closed due to Lockdown and reports are they may never reopen, so no chance of a refund. If I wanted to refurbish this one, what's the best plan of action?

Consider it done! I've been sitting on a few Herald stories from far-flung parts of the world, so I'll forward them on for your perusal.

Just a thought - do you have a matched pair of turrets? Later Spitfire versions were lower, only by 1/2 an inch or thereabouts, but if a PO has replaced one with an incorrect version it may cause a visible difference? I think this was done so as to lower the engine and gain bonnet clearance so it may not affect the suspension at all, but it's a thought.

I know, I've tried putting her in a corner of the garage under a cover but she keeps coming back into the house again.

Want to bet?? You may not kill it but the recovery process may be protracted and expensive...

No, Chris, they're at a fixed angle and not designed to be adjustable as they are - the top shim was to take up any gap left by manufacturing and so strengthen the fit, not to increase any angle. Because of the way the turrets bolt to the chassis - the four lower bolts, two at each side - you'd have to move the brackets and as they take up almost the entire side of the chassis rail there's very very little room to move them anywhere. Technically you could do it - remove the brackets, replace them with new brackets with the holes in different places as required, maybe at a different angle to the chassis rail, and with the rear bracket raised and the front lowered you might gain some change in the angle, but you'd need to really know what you're doing in terms of geometry and handling. No doubt someone, somewhere, has done it before, but it's beyond me!

Best security around these days: put a sticker in your car window that says: "I have not wiped the door handles in days..."

I have a Castelgarden Ride On; totally knackered and every year seems like it's about to blow up, but it struggles on and does the job. I do the initial cut with it then tidy up with the push-mower. I just put the iPod and headphones on and sit quite happily for an hour or two, although it's got no brakes and the steering wheel turns for an amazing distance before it transmits to the wheels. Bit like a Triumph, really! Incidentally my biggest problem is disposing of the grass cuttings; my local Recycling Centre took my name and details last week and accused me of running a business. This is because each of the three major areas of grass fills about four rubble sacks apiece - the huge builders versions - so it takes three trips with my trailer to dispose of it all. Can't you did what we did, Tony - fence a large part of it off and call it a paddock / wildflower garden or the like?

That's wayyyyyy above the standard 'go to the shops or out for a picnic' type of toolkit.. Does anyone remember (used to have one myself) the rentable Continental Breakdown Kit that Triumph used to supply - you rented it out, had replacement stick-on windscreen, gaskets, bulbs, belts, all sorts of great parts, if you didn't use it you returned it and if you did use it, you paid for the bits you'd used?

If you want a very simple one go for the household variety that hangs on a door knob; you can hang it on your inside door handles. Goes off when the door is opened. Not remote, though. This one is remote; detects voltage drop form the battery when a door is opened. One-wire fitment, apparently. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BNWT-Car-Alarm-System-Universal/184420584047?hash=item2af052ca6f:g:iosAAOSwiVpfEDrB

Did you miss the £3.55 version? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-PWM-DC-5V-16V-10A-DC-Motor-Speed-Controlling-Switch-LED-Dimmer-Controller/154020378594?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225113%26meid%3De13d8a77f34441af91dc0153d49ca934%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D293187689366%26itm%3D154020378594%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DDefaultOrganic%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 There's also a 60 amp too... £9.49...

However much it takes to either source a D-type GT6 gearbox or adapt a non-overdrive box to fit one, which is probably a lot... you must admit, mine did work for 20 years, after all.

It may be the kit; some of them are pattern kits and the fit isn't 100%. I usually fit one side first - the more difficult side with blue plastic trunnion, metal sealing washer and metal bush so that the metal tube sticks out into the middle of the space inside the hub. You may need to chamfer the leading edge so that it will fit into the other half of the bush, possibly softening the bush in boiling water may help, and use plenty of grease. Push it in gently but firmly as too much force will break something and watch out for sharp edges - I've used a vice to give gentle but square-on pressure, don't forget to use spacers, even the head of a bolt put down into the bush, to avoid crushing the thin cups. The rubber seal is square profile and it will fit round the bush, but paradoxically it helps if the bush is dry and grease free so it can grip. It will eventually stay on long enough for the outer cap to go on and then you have to balance the entire thing to get it to fit into the vertical link. I fitted four over lockdown; two old kits which fitted first time and two new replacements which caused a lot of faffing about.

Excellent, Mike - thanks for the explanation. With the Herald being single speed I wondered if you'd required one for two-speed-fan cars, but if it's a variable speed rheostat thing, I'm definitely interested in trying the system for a Herald. It should be easier to fit with the larger heater box and extra room on the bulkhead rather than under it.

Believe me, being tighter than a cow's whatever in the fly season, I checked a lot of prices!! £120 then add VAT and carriage... it all adds up. £140 was all in, so I went for that. I didn't really fancy a reconditioned version and besides hadn't removed the old one at time of purchase, just in case...

No worries, I know what you meant. What I was getting was if the material can be identified, then maybe we could obtain suitable quantities of similar to replace our standard metal pipes, but to buy a Freelander set would be pointless as there's no piece long enough for a Triumph to use.

Some times I think we should all post threads twice, to allow for thread drift on one, and to-the-point answers on the other...

You're correct but they're a strange layout - I don't think you could even begin to adapt them for any of our cars - and whatever they're made from, they cost a whopping £500 to replace...

Am I wrong in thinking that both the Herald pedal and the Vitesse pedal are the same, but the Vitesse is rod operated and the Herald cable? In which case they both use the same mounting bracket (certainly suppliers seem to be providing the same for both Herald and Vitesse?) I can provide the location for the holes in the Herald floor, which i'm hoping should be the same as the Vitesse floor, if anyone can confirm that they're the same?