Colin Lindsay

One of them there optical delusions... wonder how far the rubber pipe extends in under... for that money you'd think he'd trim off the excess.

It's the provenance that could inflate prices, if you have proof that Stirling Moss once sat in it or Juan Fangio dropped his cheeseburger on the bonnet it may put the price up. I used to read the classified ads in magazines like 'Classic and Sportscar' and regularly see Triumphs like ours going for massive prices. I've managed to find the 'best available anywhere' Mk2 on sale for £23, 950, but I've also managed to locate the one that Paul mentioned, which is being sold as a 'GY6' in 'Royle Blue' and where it states the TSSC valuation in 2019 was for £37000. Hope the spares include a spellchecker. The rebuild has allowed for 'acceptable improvements' but no mention of what they are. The fuel filter seems to be in front of the fuel pump, which is odd, but I'd take the seats any day. https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1217551

I've always wondered how feasible it is to recondition these covers? The springs are similar to valve springs, so I'm wondering if you could locate similar springs and refit those, thereby only needing a new clutch plate?

That's nuthin', the Ferrari one was $500 and the Lamborghini one $300. However: I swear that almost every show I went to in the last few years had stocks of these, obviously remade and selling for about a fiver, but of course now that I'm trying to search for them online... nothing. MG use a silver version that's still available; you could easily paint the lid in black gloss. FKH100160PMA is the part number I've been able to find so far.

Yep that's very crinkly, far crinklier than I remember it. But enough looking in the mirror... I had to dash out and have a look at my ashtray, but then remembered I replaced mine a few years back and it's now smooth gloss, of all things. But, then I found a photo of an original one in the box, and it's smooth black too, so maybe the crinkly finish is being mis-remembered as from a later or different model? Those modern remanufactured versions are so crinkly it looks like carpet, and I don't remember having one like that in any of the cars.

The white one in Rising Damp never even made it out of the garage...

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Awwww no, he's updated the list. That's an hour gone later on, I'll have to peruse it and see what I need want...

Is there a difference in the late Herald version too? I've had both Spitfire and GT6 but don't remember having this kind of spares for them, but I've had so many Heralds that 90% of my spares are for the 948 / 1200 models. I've only ever rebuilt one 13/60, and don't think I had to buy replacement yokes for it. I've probably bought it at a show, attached to an entire rear halfshaft somewhere along the line, as I've plenty of those salted away. Ah.... the good old days of shows, and autojumbles... sniff. Wipes away a nostalgic tear...

My Tr7 seats are stuck in place, they don't slide and the captive bolt just spins in the floor. It's going to cause me some bother when I work up the enthusiasm to go back to it again. When I can get back to the in-laws after this period of house arrest I'm going to have them remanufacture some more seat spacers for the Herald and maybe the GT6 too, it keeps the runners off the floor and helps them slide more easily. As with Richard's seats, my GT6 versions are just drilled through the floor to reinforcing plates, but in the Herald there's a different setup so it's not as easy.

Thanks Paul - it's just the fact that it does not mention 'rear trunnion' anywhere that has made me wary, plus the fact that some mention 'rear hub' whilst others refer to it as 'inner hub'. Years ago I found that the head nut torque for the early GT6 in the Haynes manual is incorrect, but only after stripping quite a few studs, so have been on guard ever since.

Some companies (Paddocks) can ship to me in 24 hours, which is amazing for a fiver. My glass fuses from eBay arrived, took eight days, and the paint I ordered on March 20th is still 'being processed', but it's free carriage which for a litre of paint is quite good value - heavy stuff in a tin. (Maybe should have gone for 'Light Brown', it would save postage?? ) I've another order for steering rack parts and assorted rubber seals for later this morning and I'll expect them from Paddocks by Saturday at the latest.

Ash tray is crinkly black but the vents are non-reflective satin. You can buy the ashtrays new, they were a generic pattern and used on more than one car) but they're nowadays finished in gloss. I suppose the vents were too obtrusive in gloss if they reflected in the screen as you drove? (Drove the daughter's Peugeot 107 home from purchase five or six years ago and the silver grey dashboard blotted out the screen in any kind of sunlight, so it's still a problem in some cars.)

Thanks Nigel, I'll tighten mine later today... raining here so another indoor day.

I think there are three dowels for the diaphragm and only two for the coil; I've a few spares lying about (too heavy to post!) so just select the corresponding one for the clutch and use that. Tom - if you're buying a coil spring clutch try to get the nine-spring cover rather than the six, it's not really strong enough for the 1200 although many suppliers do sell them.

Anyone know the correct torque setting for the Herald rear trunnions? The manual mentions front trunnions ok but no rears, and the closest entry I can find is 'vertical rear plates to inner rear hub' - is that it?

Still working on both the Herald Estate and the GT6 so poor convertible has dropped off the radar yet again. I got as far as refitting the rear axle this afternoon - recon diff attached to new Estate leaf spring, new trunnions, UJ's, halfshaft bearings, brakey bits etc. All looking very well on the driver's side. First problem is that the diff leaks oil from the front pinion, which got a new bearing and seal, and the oil appears to be coming from both in front and behind of the front mounting. I'm hoping I've just overfilled it and that it stops when it gets lower, but there's an awful lot of oil dripping. Second problem... what are the chances of having about twenty rear axle yokes, and free time to sandblast and paint them all, then to select one, fit the UJ, fit it to the rear axle, hang the entire shebang off the spring and the shock then go to attach the flange to the diff and find out that none of the holes line up? What on earth are the chances of having ONE - and I've checked all the rest, just now - that is bigger than all the rest, and picking that one out of them all for the Herald? I've no idea what it's from, maybe a Spitfire, but it's bigger than the others by about 4mm diameter and the holes are at different spacings. This means it's got to come off, so means dismantling the UJ - yet again - and refitting, hopefully without damage. Sometimes I hate these things...

Don't think so, it was all stripped and cleaned before repainting and the seal seemed to seat well enough. I cleaned up the pool on the floor plus the front face and it may - hopefully - have stopped.

Go for the best you can afford; you want it to perform, and last. If you can find a NOS Borg and Beck online, go for it - modern ones aren't as good. Make sure you get the correct version as some will say they fit all Heralds, others will sell a kit for 1961 - 1965 models, and still others will sell pre and post 1967 versions. I suspect yours is coil spring? You might want to upgrade to diaphragm, same fitting (unless the dowels in the flywheel differ? Anyone remember?) but slightly larger plate and you'll need to replace the slave cylinder too.

Never tried welding with an angle grinder, you learn something new as they say. (That should give you some idea of the standard of this forum....) Glad the bushes are in, another job out of the way!

I'm a bit miffed as my renovated diff is leaking from the front pinion seal; I've just refitted it to the Herald and refilled it, so I'm hoping it's just excess oil from over-enthusiastic filling draining out until it finds the correct level. It's NOT getting another seal.

Watch the back plate / flange... I had to use so much force to get one of these off a month ago - the other was simple - that on refitting, it looked like this:

Chamfering the edge will help. I pressed my last ones in with a bench vice; just keep them square on. If you're using a threaded to pull them in, is it long enough to go right through both mountings? That way gives better access to the nuts and helps you pull the bushes in from a better angle, rather than a short length that just goes through one.

That makes good sense as if you can raise the body slightly it may be the shockers extending. Let us know once you've checked.

That's a stranger setup; it appears to show two different oveflow / drains - the shorter one to the right was the setup I had in my 1973 Mk3; is the other side venting - the dotted line under the tank - for LHD models?