Colin Lindsay

I stopped that four-letter word four months ago and to be honest, I haven't stopped since I stopped. There aren't enough hours in the day for work and other things, so one had to go.

Post a photo, we can all commiserate and advise accordingly.

I don't know if this has been suggested already but - have you considered trimming the cowl, so that the wheel boss fits inside it? That would be one of my first options, rather than lengthening the stering column. I'd be wary that, at its' fullest extension, any grip on the rotaty bits may be at their slimmest. Second hand cowls are easy enough to get, I'd look for a backup pair and widen the hole at the top for the steering boss to slip into. If it cuts anyway raggedly, a little bit of plastic edge trim around the hole would make it look professional.

Ok Dave...here's a tip - start one! It worked for me with the Parts Wanted' section. One query, though - how would you sort it, so that someone looking for a tip on a particular area ie electrical, or suspension, would know where to look? It is feasible that every section should have a 'sticky' thread at the top for relevant tips or tricks? Any thoughts?

Do you mean the large black rectangular plate that covers the front of the H-frame, or the DIN-sized radio cage that fits into the aperture?

Got it, will be in touch tomorrow. Colin

I should have a few, I'll check the garage and report back. Is it the button / press part, or the entire handle? Yep, have two with no pitting but definitely requiring rechroming. The upper one is shinier and would do for a while at a pinch, but they're both in need of some shiny stuff. .

I can't get near mine to see how these actually fit, and there are no clues in any of the workshop manuals. Since they don't screw into the chassis there must be a reinforcement on the floor panel edge, which seems to be the threaded block we can see in the photos. If that's the case and repairs are necessary anyway, replace the rotted floor edge and refurbish the stiffener by either retapping or else by inserting some of the currently available captive press nut inserts into the block and use matched chromed bolts. The originals are 5/16 but you'll have to go by whatever metric equivalent you can get these days.

True, but when I'm browsing in the wee small hours I don't think he'd appreciate being woken up with a query....

I've started contacting Chic first about nearly everything, they make a surprising number of their own parts including odd bits of body panels that you can get nowhere else.

Never noticed that! He claims he just checked them and didn't replace them himself.... might be worth an enquiry to see if he is aware.

That was always my problem with them... the website.

Yes, saloon has a huge flywheel which is twice the width of the GT6 version but quite smooth running; I ran my GT6 on one for an age (until I realised!) and it made the engine very relaxed, but obviously at the expense of acceleration. Once I swapped for the GT6 version it made the engine quite light and almost insubstantial feeling. Very easy to swap over, though. Same with the camshaft; it's also a relatively simple swap.

Yes, that's strange as I'm sure they advertised them in the Courier some time ago. Just for devilment I'm going to use the hydraulic switch system on my 1200... because it's there.... but with provision for the pedal switch in case things go pear-shaped.

GT6 has the front quarterlight, Spitfires don't, so slightly different runners required to keep the glass aligned to the door. You can adjust one slightly by spacing it out with washers lower down inside the door. Give Chic Doig a call, I'll be surprised if he doesn't have one. New rubber channels can be bought from other Classic Car suppliers such as Minis Landrover or VW.

Aidan - try this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-GT6-Vitesse-2000-Mk2-Original-1998cc-Engine-in-superb-order/123024776503?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D43782%26meid%3D1465ab649a8e492aa81d26f2829725ae%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D222889642776%26itm%3D123024776503&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 It might save a lot of bother in the long run...

Take hold of the crankshaft pulley and pull / push - you'll see movement, and excessive movement is a sign of worn thrust washers. I've seen engines move around an inch in and out so are usually badly worn. At the other end you'll see the flywheel move in and out. I bought a 2 litre engine back when I bought my S/H gearbox, in fact the owner threw it in to get rid of it. It was seized solid through years of lying outdoors, but yielded a lot of useful spares such as a head suitable for recon, flywheel, distributor pedestal etc. Pistons were thrown out but I think most of the rest, including the block went to other members for reconditioning and rebuild. As our cars get older many of the parts are no longer available new, and suppliers rarely keep a stock of exchange items any more, so if you want one reconditioned you have to supply one. You might as well supply one that really needs it and get your money's worth...

You're using that bl**dy time machine again, I only e-mailed the article to Bernard last month for April 2018.... Come back to the present, there's nothing for you in the future!

Don't cut off the terminals, remove the control box and open it - strip out the internals leaving as much metal to the rear of each spade as you can. Then attach / bridge and solder them inside as the wiring requires. This leaves everything looking fully original from the outside, but all the connections are now correct for the alternator, just hidden from view. I did this on both my Herald and GT6 years ago and they're still going strong.

Don't necessarily stick to the original plugs, which were metal and somewhat brutal in their day... any motor factors has plastic bubble packs of the modern equivalent, which are gentler on the trim and brackets but hold just as well. I have plenty of the originals if you need any, but on my own car I've replaced them with modern versions. They look almost exactly the same and often hold the trim more securely than the metal versions.

April?

Obviously not at 45mph or above, though.... Search for the song "Billy Far Out" sung by Andy Irvine about a car that loses gears, one by one, until only reverse is left...

See Courier number 454.

The Woody Allen one?

Vacuum gauge is much more fun, as it flies about when you drive and you're always trying to keep the needle in the green...