Colin Lindsay

No, it looks like an MG.... how could you???? Poor car will have an identity crisis. In that pic of the exposed gearbox, those rear mountings look like they're a bit shreddy too?

Sadly it wasn't eBay who I got it from, but I was using eBay as an example simply because they have photos! Went to MOT with normal temperature for the first ten miles, then none on the way home. I have spare sensors in the spares drawer, so will try those and see if they're anyway accurate - they could be Herald versions.

Fuses arrived, and the seller included a Maoam penny chew with the order... maybe this is to entice 'er indoors to actually get into the car with me? It's a strange world....

That's just tooo much bother for a lazy sod like me ... MOT in three hours anyway so I'll stick with the easy option for now. The car is back on the road for the first time since 2015 and I'm darned if I'll start messing with it so soon!

Pete - you may be spot on here; I hadn't thought about the stabiliser versions. The one I bought is listed as GTR108; no alternative version is listed, but the red top is the one that arrived in a bag, marked GTR108. All the versions of that number on eBay are black tops. I can't find a photo of the other but it's listed as non-stabilised. I may have been sent the wrong version, then.

Anyone else found this? I bought a replacement sender unit for the GT6 earlier this week, as I'd left the cooling system drained whilst working on other things over the winter and when I rebuilt and refilled the system, the temperature gauge was being intermittent - first there was no heat, then it was normal, then back to zero.... so I fitted the new sensor. On the first drive I brought the car back with the needle in the red, so was quite concerned even though there were no real symptoms of trouble at the actual engine. Took the water pump off, flushed everything, replaced the thermostat, and suspected an airlock so was very careful with the refill, but same result on the second test drive - the needle very close to the red and not in the usual 6 o'clock position. This morning as a test I cleaned up the old sensor and replaced it once I'd sourced another sealing washer - this time the needle stayed in the normal position, no trace of overheating. So: it appears the new sensor is reading too high. As you can see from the photo it's slightly longer than the old one on the left, so must be a different setting even though it's marketed for the GT6. Looks like I'll have to find a NOS spare, to be sure... but if it happens to you, suspect the sensor BEFORE working on the engine.

Ah - I'm okay then, replacement loom fitted when the car was restored a few years back.

Only if you MUST read from left to right, as opposed to right / left. I was thinking of our international members too.

You can still find manifold adaptors on eBay and the like; they're a thin block that bolts to the manifold which convert the mount spacings for one carb to those of another, and are usually reversible so by turning them round you can convert from SU to Stromberg, or if on Strombergs, then to SUs. If the Spit 4 is the same porting as the 1200 Herald - I suspect it is? - manifolds such as the Alexander conversion will take two 1.25 Strombergs.

Mine don't do anything either, which is the way I like it. I had thought of replacing them with three blade fuses, but will wait to see if it's actually required.

Asking price is £6000, there's an offer of £5000 already on it. Not from me, either...

Ok, since you're going to be pedantic. Happy now?

We used to pour Redex directly into the carbs, the cloud of white smoke from the exhaust was amazing but it cleaned everything!

I am, so I've e-mailed them asking for further details of condition or price. Thanks for the link!

I've had problems with their search facility, couldn't find fuses the other day... it's not very simple to operate and gives some very strange results. Glad we found them!

No, because then I'll have to post pics of my Reliant Scimitar which was a total money pit, and I don't want to be reminded of it. Oops... too late.

Most suppliers seem to have it, listed as C9928A sealing ring or sealing O-ring. Seems to be about £1, they're common to MGs too.

The black Mahle filters were less deep, if I remember rightly. I used them on the GT6 until I turned the adaptor to allow a bigger filter, albeit almost upside down.

No, I was talking about my intensive research and subsequent theory of post drift - move over John Nash - but as I can't give Pete a Nobel prize, I'll just give him a Nobel as a prize instead.

Just want to resurrect a slightly mouldy thread, to thank Canleys for getting parts to me in less than 24 hours. It wasn't anything dreadfully urgent, but it means I get things on the road a day earlier than expected. In comparison, this eBay dealer didn't get my custom, given that the part - a standard cylindrical flasher unit - was £14.01, but postage was £31.31, and I wouldn't have received it until next Monday. Part of that price must have been the hotel room for the postman.

Here's an illustration of how the forum works. The member needing the information is the red line and at the red circle he posts a question. The other forum members (black) converge on this spot almost immediately. For an amazingly short time question (red) and answers (black) are almost relevant, then the answers head away off on a strange path that goes nowhere near what we actually require to know, before finally being firmly brought back to intersect the red line again with a proper and hopefully correct answer. After that the thread disappears away off at an angle, never to return, while the original poster continues on his path with a lot of head scratching at what actually went on. People have got Nobel Prizes for less.

My Herald 1200 had a glass in-line filter in what would be the middle of the rubber hose in your top photo; worked well but looked very obtrusive. The GT6 filter is now where the kink is in the rubber pipe in your lower photo; just enough metal pipe coming out through the outrigger to allow it to connect.

Just make sure you never, ever want to remove the tunnel again.

If it goes milky, it's been on too long. Most of my autoparts stores locally have large plastic fuel filters for about £1, I just change them when they look tired. Like yours, Doug, mine is just in front of the fuel pump, between the outrigger and the block. I have some of the chrome and glass versions but unless they're securely mounted they'll break.

'Er Indoors nearly blew a fuse when she found an e-mail receipt for a payment to "Love Life Limited".... I had to demonstrate that this is the fuse seller Aidan recommended. I'm not sure what part of someone's love life requires a 17 amp fuse but then I'm getting old and out of touch...