Mark B

I think losing nearly all the water in the expansion tank after just a couple of warm ups, you would have expected to have heard hissing or seen steam, smelling hot etc. and I would have thought a lot more mayo, and engine overheating. I know they can be prone to head gasket, but could possibly could be air in the system. I think there are three points to bleed off the cooling system to get rid of the air, engine , heater, and rad. Got to help my nephew do this shortly and watched a YouTube video. That could explain the sudden drop in water level. Do'es the heater blow hot air?

I have used a Gunson balancer since early 80's, basic, plasticy, but works. Years ago I had a spitfire set up proffesionally at a rolling road. I had tuned it all my self using Gunson Colourtune, carb balancer, and strobe, operator commented that every thing was pretty much bang on.

I've parked my gt6 on the road for 18 years. I've a battery disconnect, + cut outs, I remove the rotor arm, steering and hand brake locks, plus loud alarm if the car were to be knocked lifted etc. I've always done this, but now the values of all Triumphs have gone up, I think you need to be cautious. Nothing worse than seeing a space where your car should be, scratching your head wondering if you had parked it somewhere else. Had a motor bike stolen a few years ago, and a couple of cars probably 30 years ago, so maybe Iam just paranoid.

The thing is, probably 15, 20 years ago, Spits, gt6, Vitesse etc. Were never worth much, so unless you were a real enthusiast and had the ability to restore them yourself, they ended up being scrapped, or broken for parts. I remember cars being offered for free, to anyone who would collect them. Really hope you get lucky with your search, you never know.

Any other experience with the repro type 14 calipers? I was intending rebuilding the ones off my mk3 Spitfire but despite all efforts the pistons are seized solid, so if I eventually get them out the bores maybe beyond it.

Thanks Pete, I'll have a look.

I've changed the rotoflex couplings on my mk2 gt6 4 times in twenty years, but less than 20,000 miles covered in that time. What helps to kill them is not moving the car for long periods of time, their under tension and will start to tear from the metal deviders. I've only ever managed to find repro versions, and in my experience they just don't last. My first rotoflex Vitesse had metalastic versions that lasted for years. I think the technologies/ materials used back in the day have been lost in time. Next time I'll go CV. I have used 50 year old NOS rubber in the form of track rod end boots, after the new repro ones disintigrate before I even had chance to roll the rebuilt rolling chassis out of the garage. I also bought NOS door check rubbers after the repro ones started to crumble away within 18 months. The NOS rubber looks and feels like new. I would think twice about 50 year old safety critical parts.

Never used copperslip on the pins, only a very light smear on the back of the pads. Overhauled the calipers on the Vitesse recently, the copperslip had stayed wear it was, bit dry, but probably softens when the pads warm up.

I've got a 13" mounty steering wheel on my mk2 gt6, came with the car 20 years ago. Didn't used to bother me parking, but starting to now. 155 13 tyres standard wheels (tempoary) 30psi, lots of effort in tight parking spaces, and I do keep the car moving. Looking out for an original 15" one, got to make parking easier.

I've recently been replacing sills etc. On a mk3 Spit. Raised similar questions. I had what I believed to be steel craft,(up in the loft for 20 years) Original Austin Rover, and recently purchased Heratige sills to play with. Heratige were the best fit in my opinion, all subtly different, all curved along the bottom edge up towards the A post. Heratige ones curved slightly less than that AR version. All appear similar until they are fìxed in place along the top edge, and the bottom of the sill is pulled in to meet the edge of the floor. Then the differences show. https://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/9607-spit-mk3-door-gap/

There is still waste left over from removing precious metals from cataylictic converters not counting the energy used to extract them. The motivation and incentive is the value platinum, palladium, and rhodium. Dont think there will be the same incentive for recycling bateries and they will only want to recycle parts that give a positive financial return, hence my fear of them ending up in land fill. I don't think the enviromental impact of mining these minerals is over hyped, time will tell. PS. Don't know how to correct the text size?

I wonder whats going to happen to all these EV batteries when they are worn out. Theres talk of recycling, but when there are millions of batteries to dispose of, I cant see it, some minerals may be extracted, but I would guess most will end up in land fill. Then theres the masive enviromental impact of mining for Lithiam, Cobalt etc. I think governments are jumping on the EV bandwagon without seriously considering helping owners of older existing vehicles to meet new cleaner emissions, by using modified exhaust systems etc. They are not thinking about the long term enviromental impact of EV's. Unfortunately I think synthetic fuel developers are going to have an up hill struggle getting any real meaningfull support from governments.

Thought this was interesting https://youtu.be/MNrGZC8h4Fg

The origins of engine rattles and knocks can be hard to pin down. I had a rattle from my Vitesse engine when I bliped the throttle. Rattle sounded like it was coming from the n/s, of the block, and started to think it was the ends rattling. Bought a mechanics stethoscope, cheap as chips off eBay. Very good at pin pointing the sorce of the noise. The cause? Front SU dashpot had no oil in it. Piston was hitting the inside of the dashpot. Noise was going down the inlet manifold, like a trumpet. Wearing the stethoscope blocks out most of the other engine noises, and makes it easy to track down metalic clatters. https://youtu.be/fGnHc3cores

Hi all Did the original gt6 mk2 have a gloss black plastic finish steering wheel or did it have a stitched leather cover. I have seen various steering wheels advertised as TR6, Gt6, some with the gloss black finish some with the leather. Also some with black three spokes, some with a silver finish. The black plastic maybe what's under the leather cover, and the original silver could have been painted black. What's your thoughts?

The numerous small chassis Triumphs I have owned and still own have always had the chassis and turrets in body colour. Running gear etc. Always black.

What's the battery condition? There's turning over an engine, and really spinning the engine over. It can make a big difference in starting a car thats stood for a while, especially if the battery is old. You need a strong ignition spark at the same time as the starter is drawing a lot of power cranking the engine. Try jump starting the car to give it an extra boost on turnover. Also if you have had the leads off, check the firing order. In the past I've cured one fault and created another, with lots of head scrataching. It will run eventually, good luck.

I've seen a couple of Herald/Vitesse hard tops with the rap-around rear screen over the years and missed out on one on ebay about 10 years ago. Not sure if it was exactly the same as the one pictured, but there is at least one other design out there other than the Honeybourne version.

A few years ago I lost a couple of lockups to developers, so built another shed in the garden and managed to cram everything in there. I am probably the worst at holding onto triumph stuff. But it did give me the opportunity to sort through things and reminded me what I have. About twenty years ago I had four lock ups, full of car parts. I was generally peed off, and over a few weeks I dumped loads of parts, 6 engines, several gearboxes, including overdrives, vitesse, gt6 and spit chassis, loads of running gear, interiors etc. Didnt even have the enthusiasm to try and sell anything. Felt good briefly, but then the regrets. I think the old saying 'act in haste repent at leisure' was true in my case. I am again looking at parts I have held onto for years and also thinking is it time to start clearing the decks, as I am not getting any younger, and my circumstances are changing, but I remember how I felt the first time, so dithering a bit. I think if your not being forced to get rid of your prized parts now, I would wait a while until your in a better frame of mind, as you may regret it.

Lots of work, looking good. I resprayed my Vitesse a few years ago in cellulose and it took an age to harden fully, probably a year or so. Don't know if the cellulose they produce today is a different mix than in years gone by or I was just unlucky. I did respray a Spitfire and Vitesse probably 30 years ago with cellulose and I was able to T-cut it after a couple of weeks. Don't know if you are still at the painting stage, but you need to be carefull in the cold damp weather, otherwise it can bloom and go flat, which you're probably aware of. Keep up the good Work!

Looking good. You want the car on all four wheels and on level ground when aligning panels. Gaps can change wildly when raised, vs sitting on the ground under its own weight.

I used a rubber sealant designed for screen rubbers several years ago when replacing the screen seal on my Gt6 after making significant repairs to the frame. Fitted and forgot for a few months until I notice the edge of the screen rubber lifting slightly in a few places. When peeled back the screen rubber, I was horrified to see red rust and scabbing of the paint on the screen surround. I had to wait for several months before I had the chance to remove the screen. There was severe surface rust and pitting. I had previously used a lk etch, red primer, and a gloss black top coat. I believe the sealant had reacted with the 1k paint. Treated the rust and repainted using the same process, but fitted a new screen seal without any rubber sealant, and has been fine for the last 10 years, with no leaks. Couple of years ago I replaced the front screen seal on the Vitesse, and again didn't use any sealant, and so for so good.

What car is this on? If it's a base and clear paint finish, the marks may be under the lacquer. Is the paint old or new? I've had this issue on cellulose paint, but it easily polishes out with T cut. T cut seems to have changed though. Used to be a cream colour with a destinctive smell and worked well. The last T cut I bought was white not the usual odour, and didn't work as well.

Hi Collin, I've had a couple of Herald convertibles I love them, wish I still had mine. Much lighter on their toes and with a tuned small crank 1360 would give a Vitesse a run for its money. I am sure the extra weight of the Vitesse runing gear, engine etc. all much heavier, makes the chassis/tub flex much more noticeable. Yes, the door gaps still opens slightly when jacking up my car, but that's despite an excellent chassis, solid mounted tub and the other mods mentioned above. I still wouldnt leave the doors open when jacking up though. This is the fourth Vitesse I have owned and by far the most solid. Vitesse Saloons are noticeably more solid.

I recently replaced the pins on a couple of hinges. I pressed and belted the old pins out and pressed in standard sized replacement pins. In my case most of the wear was to the old pins and not the two parts of the hinge. There was no ovaling or obvious wear to the actual hinge parts. There is minimal play in the refurbed hinges, but now the doors are back on the car it's difficult feel. I suppose it depends on where the hinges are worn and how badly, which determines weather you can get away with just replacing the pins, like in my case, or need the hinges machining and oversized pins fitted.