PeteH

Hi Got one for you all. Mine (13/60 C-V) is in different colours due mainly to the fact that some of the panels have been replaced, so far so good. What I need is a primer that can be aplied safely in a domestic garage, and will tolerate being applied over different source paints/primers without causing potential issues later?. Does such an animal exist?. Even if I strip back to bare metal/body filler. There will I am sure be some bits that will never remove in the really awkward places. The final coat will likely be Celulose as the original would have been (I assume, it being 1967 build year), but the last thing I need would be paint issues down the line. "full dip" stripping etc; is not a (financial) option. Opinions please?. Pete

The RAC guy used one to gain entrance to my Motorhome. It bust a window catch!. The catches are NLA, except as part of a complete window kit. 10p plastic catch. £57 window kit!.😭. Mercedes (Sprinters) self lock as I found out that day with both set of keys inside.😭 Pete

It sounds as if the Plannning officer would have benefited from a good soak too?.

`Err Indoors. Keeps finding me job`s. The latest is a "requirement" for the Planting Bed in the Back garden to be dug out and "refreshed" in an attempt to get rid of persistant weed. So trailer load of "Well Rotted" and a double dig session this week in the projected "dry" weather. Then resting the back, I should think. So unlikely any Triumph molesting.😢 I used a Triangular scraper with a radius back edge for the inner wheel arch, with a Paint stripper hot air heat gun. Pete

Sadly, the story of every "dads" garage, Can I borrow ??????. Never to be seen again. Like my 9/16 AF 30deg (head) angle spanner, which was the only thing that would work on a Mini carb; to manifold studs!!. 😭😭. Pete

To be fair, The type of domestic smoke detector, under discusson is not suitable for a workspace anyway. In shipboard practice ( and probably industry) the sensors used are far more sophisticated (now). They measure the smoke amounts and are monitored and calibrated to ignore "normal" conditions, which can fluctuate based on attitude and temperature among other parameters . Assessing other spectrum ie; Infra Red as well. Early day, ones could be overidden for a fixed time period, say when welding. Which was at least of some use. But they where not exactly £10 at B&Q!!. Pete

You can get into big trouble putting fingers in wrong Places.!!. The Factories back in the day where full of guys with part digits, or in some cases none!. I was a Millwright Apprentice, and we ocasionally had to "retrive" body parts from machines, Involving strip-down and rubber gloves!!. The women on the tin plate line, making paint tins, etc; suffered some very serious cuts due to misshandling the sheets. Pete

Hi I seem to recollect a conversation many years ago, where the discussion was ref; SS V`s MS. There was no definitive conclusion, but there was a lot of discussion about the tensile strength of SS being regarded as Inferior (size for size). The elasticity of SS is different to MS too. The issue of SS fasteners coming "slack" was addressed with locktite. Obviously not practical with wheel studs!!! My take would be that providing the PCD of (both) the Hub Studs, and Wheel are within tolerance, this would be a highly unlikely cause of issue. Pete

It`s a "statutary" requirement now for at least one or two and hard wired. Or so the building inspector said!. Integral garages are regarded as part of the house. The battery ones are OK for "extra`s" or Caravans, Separate Garages sheds and Motorhomes etc;. I used a sharp scraper and washed it off with Brake cleaner. I like to steer clear of Petrol as a cleaner, having once had to put out a pair of overalls which "self ignighted", Fortunately I had just removed them!. Pete

The "planks" in most Walmart, are of the "thick as two short", variety often still in the "jim-jams", OR hugely obese wearing bright yellow tights.! Pete

The operative word being "should". I reckon some American strong man fitted mine!. I think there is likely a "tool" of the type made by Factory Workers to assist their fitting on the "line". Pete

Been, Reading from early on, This was intriguing. 60`s "Security". Read the number off the lock, go to Half-Rods, Buy key(s) return and steal car!. Dohh!!!!. Mind, even later. A manufacturer of "Prestige" cars fitted central locking which could be unlocked by placing half a tennis ball over the lock and wacking it with the hand, this popped the doors and you where in!. Even easier than the well known "split" flat strip which when slid down the screen could bend the rod and open doors. As shown to me by a police officer, when I locked my keys in the boot!. Pete

No C-O Alarm?. I took the battery out of the smoke alarm!!. As for the Underseal removal. Was I ever glad of the ability to turn mine over, and work "downhand". I don`t think my back would have survived it!. But I`v "wimped out" of working in -4, too many frostbitten fingers working out on deck in the North Sea in winter! up Norway. Pete

Hi As per; and "pigs" to unscrew. Suggest you try Pushing the Front back against the Dash with the flat of hand, a Non slip Glass/Gardening glove helps. And unscrew the back. It that does not work you will be hard pushed to get it out without damage. Ask how I know,?. I took one out of an American R-V circa; 2012. It was too damaged to put back but I saved the Dash panel!. Pete

So what you are suggesting, and as far as I am/was aware the 2L engine was O/E?, some of the badging was in error?. We know the car was never "shunted" nor otherwise damaged, suggesting the boot lid was O/E? likewise the Bonnet. (both definitely the same colour originally, no sign of any colour change, so worst case, would have had to be from a similar vehicle) Of academic interest of course at this distance in time, but intriguing. Pete

When was the 2000 Engine introduced then?. Mine, XGH 465G was Oct 68 and 2 litre original. But everythting else including the Grill and Headlamp shrouds are the same including Vittese 6 on the boot? As far as this car?. Anyone know what the outcome was?. Pete

I aquired a vacuum Bleed kit. So far it has worked very well with 5 metre of brake pipe to the rear`s it makes for a simple one man job. I change the brake fluid every couple of years, ever since I lost braking on an incline, due to the fluid vapour locking. VERY "brown trousers". Spent all weekend changing the fluid on a campsite. (behind a pub). Pete

HI An update on this, is the fact that the "Trump" legal mob. Found a shed load of those calling for his impeachment had similar sounding "Sound bites" brought back to haunt them. Which caused me a wry smile. Which reminds me of the old "saw" "don`t do as I do, do as I say". Pete

This, rings a very ancient bell. It is possible that My old Vittesse was so fitted, never really thought about it at the time and anyway "er indoors" drove it more than I did, it was her "commuter". But I vaguely recall it having a Rear "Anti Roll" bar, which I now realise was NOT a factory fit. In line with "percieved wisdom" of the day it had a bag of sand in the boot anyway!. So if anyone out there has XGH 469G (known to be on sorn). It would be interesting to know. Pete

Hmmm?. The change of section on stud 4, even with a rolled thread looks on the photo as quite abrupt. Any radius at the change of section would be a better design. (Just my View). I`ve turned a few Huge bolts in my time, in Maritime work, and inspected a few too. and we always paid great atention to the change of section and avoided abrupt changes whenever possible. Pete

IWM website is quoting 4 Flying days in 2021. (July and September) so it is possible the Car days will take also place?. Pete

Not More "Doug`s other site"?.

Tesco. (Et - Al) Want face coverings In-store, I have suggested I use the "Full Face" helmet?. The back story to this is once having been "instructed" by the Tesco security, to remove my helmet as it was considered counter to "security". Pete

Hi I replaced them with with 10mm Coach bolts and large washers they are the joint between the two tub halves. I have used various thickness of laminate and reinforced Nitrile rubber. once I have it "right" I will turn up thick "C" washers from an alloy billet and replace the laminate. P.s. Those gaps look better than mine Pete

My take on the options, would come down to No3, It has the smoothest transition at the "critical" point. No 4 could form a notch at the base of the thread much more easily. And "notches" are to be avoided. In certain aplications we would actually Radius undercut to avoid such potential. Short of actually getting them (Sample) Tensile and Shear destruction tested. I would go with my Gut. Years ago in College we actually had access to Tensile and Shear tresting gear. Know any College Engineering lecturers?. You never know they might make it part of the course lesson?. Pete