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AidanT

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Everything posted by AidanT

  1. AidanT

    Quiller Triumph

    Maybe we could do with a supplier recommendations section That would ld not cause an issue I'm sure
  2. AidanT

    Quiller Triumph

    Paddocks are my preferred supplier to. Cheaper than Rimmers and as good quality. I only use good used suppliers where parts are no longer made, then I use people like spitfire graveyard and Mick dolphin who have been recommended to me Aidan
  3. Hi Yes leave the switch wiring in place and use it to energise the solenoid switch. A thick cable from the power source (fused) from the battery (I'm taking mine direct from the alternator) to the solenoid then wire the the switched side to the lights Aidan
  4. I would not want to promise, but the 1.5 ohm infers they are the ballast type. Non-ballasted 12v always measure 3 ohms, so to me yes go buy a new coil Aidan
  5. BTW, anyone any thoughts on Xenon vs Halogen? Thx Aidan
  6. https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjRw-Wx1MzMAhXGOxQKHaPLDXcQjRwIBw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwilliamcolumbine.blogspot.com%2F2010%2F09%2Fheadlight-relays.html&psig=AFQjCNHgv1OdnjWINLbqrahEtcRClbE7AQ&ust=1462871011997648 This is the simplest I can find and will be using it for my conversion with Crystal Halogen units in the next month I will refer to the manual wiring diagram for the switch side wires Aidan
  7. Richard Always wanted to know if you can still clamp the Goodrich ones Thx Aidan
  8. Think Pete advised me up to 20 lbs ft so I don't think you are far wrong Aidan
  9. Hi Wayne - In a word - YES, everything from a drip to a flow! Things to check, and I am assuming here that this is a being fitted as new 1 If you have just fitted it, did you ensure you removed the old seal sometimes it hides in the block! 2 If that’s OK, did you give the block a good clean to ensure no old seal bits were left in the groove 3 As was pointed out to me, some blocks have a groove / lip on the inner / outer edges, so you have to ensure that the rubber seal does not get caught on it. I did mine mind by pushing the seal in and at the same time using a fine screwdriver gently around the edges between the seal and the block As another note, make sure the inner seal moves against the spring and is not locked in any way. When I got mine the inner sprung seal was somehow stuck and I had to free it off by turning it. This created a few flakes of aluminium to fall off so if yours is the same be careful to clear them away Aidan
  10. Thx Richard - Probably best I get hold of the filter to start Aidan
  11. Ahha, I never thought of it being before the pump. Actually shows one in the Parts catalog along with the fuel tank! I will see if there's one there already!
  12. I have used Bresco for a lot of my nuts and bolts - bit on the expensive side though Aidan
  13. I would like to fit an in-line filter with a non-return valve to eliminate any drain back, but aprate from a few mm of hose near the T piece split for each carb, its all copper pipe all the way back to the pump. Probably specific to the Mk1 GT6 set up but where are other people placing their in-line filters? Aidan
  14. H&H did mine to. Excellent job with their own electronic unit - similar price to Colin and mine was pretty knackered to start with Aidan
  15. Hi I always thought this was simply due to evaporation of the fuel. I have to crank mine for a good few seconds before fuel arrives and it fires up, or if the battery is a bit flat I use the manual pump on the bottom of the fuel pump to push fuel in to the SU's. I of course stand to be corrected by those with more knowledge Aidan
  16. Wayne From what I have gathered / read the fit is a good one Doug I'm not sure if a mix would be an issue, I was considering them completing a special production run of one type, more the fact that we / the club might be able to get an order discount if they order 20 units rather than just one being ordered individually! They might also get a club discount on top!. Obviously the club would need to get a large deposit or payment in from the members before placing the order, but they should be able to get a good bulk order discount price I would think ? Aidan
  17. Just a thought for the club shop - but with some already considering this purchase, would it be possible for the club to maybe collate interest, take a deposit and then go to the supplier with a bulk order to gain a better price for us all? I would certainly be interested in this, At the moment £700 for the set is a sightly too much for me but you never know what a bulk discount may attain? As a start, maybe if you are on the forum and read this just ping a reply of interested! Give an idea of numbers Aidan
  18. Does anyone know if there are any other suppliers for Aluminium Bumpers?
  19. At what point is chrome past the point where it can be polished back to a smooth surface?. I have attached some pics of my front bumper which I have been adding elbow grease to but am now questioning if either I purchase a polishing machine or give up and get it re-chromed. (Backs are in good condition) The below pic is after an hour of polishing with a well known metal polish All and any other suggestions appreciated
  20. Hi Doug No not near but I called them up after a bit of an email correspondence, I was looking for an original Choke cable, the one with a detachable knob, said they had exactly what I needed but sent me what I can only describe as an old piece of tat I guess itd best to do business face to face with them with the part in your hands! Aidan
  21. Hi All Re number 18 below, does anyone have any dimensions to this spacer? and is it important? I have taken the bumper off for the fist time today and there was an assortment of really odd spacers fitted to one side. Its missing the items 8/19 which I guess are needed to ensure the bumper is not deformed and so have ordered some replacements, but I cant find any of the 511475's. If someone can confirm their importance and thickness I can make some up or find another source PS my over riders bolts have been reversed and are welded to the inside of the over riders - Just makes it a pig to get them off as there's no room for a spanner or wrench!
  22. Sorry - Should have said - I wanted to know if I have just been unlucky thx
  23. I hope I am not going to close to get removed but does anyone have any good experiences with the second hand parts Suppler Spitbitz? Unfortunately my experience has not been a good one Aidan
  24. Hi scooter. Can you recommend any on the net?
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