Anglefire

Oil and water added tonight. Turned the engine to top dead tonight, removed the dizzy and pump drive and span up the pump. Plenty of pressure developed - oil light went out nice and easy. But I still have a pressure oddity. I also think I know what it is. I think it’s the oil pressure relief valve. I think it opens and doesn’t drop back again. No idea how to fix that one. The valve and spring is new. Doesn’t seem to catch anywhere in the bore. A conundrum.

I should also say, that before it went on, all the muck and bullets was cleaned out with some brake cleaner and wiped clean!

As promised a picture. Not long before it was fitted to the car. Together with the carbs. Just got to find the choke cable clamp that isn’t in the plastic box I put the reset of the carb elements in 🤔

Whilst at my dads tonight, we had a look at the veneer options. I think I’ve decided what I’m going to use. Austrialian Black bean. In the raw As a finished coffee table- which I think is 50+ years old A piece of the veneer with a couple of varnish options - the one on the left is my preference The burr walnut is lovely. But not for a spitfire.

I’ve not used the hammer. I’ve just used some 100grit paper on a flat plate and got it pretty flat now. I'll take a picture later. Well tomorrow.

I have a copper hammer - I did wonder about a tap with it. And a rasp file I think. Somewhere.....

Cam is not new - was 12months or so ago. Only the bores to bed in - so I've got some Halfords Classic to go in for the first few hundred miles. £21 I think it was for a 5ltr tin. I will follow your advice Roger regarding the revs and labouring I've only loctited in the rocker grub screw tonight, refitting the drain plug with a new fibre washer and fitted the new pump to heater pipe - had to drill the hole on the bracket to a larger size and bend it to shape to fit over the manifold studs - which I also fitted tonight. Which is where I've stopped for the evening - because I think I've found the reason for the poor inlet sealing - the face of the inlet manifold is not flat. Just got to work out now how to make it so.... As it seems to be bent where the two upper clamp fit. Odd. Doesn't need much taking off it. probably 25thou or so. My dad does have a wheel grinder - but I don't know if alloy will knacker it up. I'll have to ask.

It sounds to me like the pistons are withdrawing into the calipers as you drive and don't brake and allow the pad to move - and it takes a couple of miles of repeated braking to make them stay in a bit more and stop the rattle. Or, probably more likely, its something else I hadn't even thought of or knew about 😉

Thanks NonMember. That’s what I was thinking tbh. I was just having a moment of doubt whilst I was waiting for a firmware upgrade to occur. 😂 having another one now 😂

Another question. What oil should I use for it’s first run? Running in oil? Or just something like Halfords classic oil?

Whilst waiting for the delivery of the Loctite today, I refitted the oil pump and sump last night. Im also waiting for the water drain plug fibre washer so I can refit that plug. It’s something that doesn’t come in any of the top or bottom gasket sets. Slightly annoying for a 20p item. I’ve also got to fit the new heater pipe from the pump to the heater pipes though noticed that there isn’t a swage on the end where the pipes clamp - the old one did though that didn’t have the bracket to bolt it to the manifold- hence why I’m changing it. Dont know how much I’ll get done this weekend a i have to work ( depressing I know)

243 seems to be the one (One of probably) as its oil resistant.

That was my thought. But should it be tight or is it just to plug the hole at the end to keep the oil in?

I fitted a new one - and it reads 3/4 full at best. But does seem to read empty. Which is the important bit! I bent it so it was in front of the tube. - behind it seemed to catch on the lower half of the tank.

Refitted the head, rocker shaft and water pump, thermostat housing tonight. One thing I did notice when I fitted the rocker (Its one I fitted some while ago - new with bushed rockers etc.) the grub screw was loose at the end of the shaft - I assume this should be tight? But should it be locktighted in?

Yes I’ve read that before. Pretty much pack it is seems from some sites. The tr6 one particularly.

Finally measured the other two dimensions tonight - both in spec - around 2.5thou. And I've blueprinted it now and taken off a couple of thou off the body and is now at about 2.5thou - slightly more as its a easy fit, but can't get the next size feeler in. Happy with that, Least I can now get the pump in and refit the sump. Once the head is also back on, I'll take the dizzy out and prime the pump and see what it does..........

Well, I watched a YouTube video to get the principle! Essentially, you have a bucket of water and some 10-30 oil. Wet the stones in the water initially and just shake/damp off the excess water. Oil the stones (I put it in a small cup actually and dipped them in. Put the device in the bore on a drill and turn it on (I'd set the pressure to be not too firm) Quite quickly go up and down the bore with the stones rotating to aim to get the 45deg look on the bores. (It's not easy!) After every 30 up/downs remove the stones and put in the water - turn the drill on (Not too fast - you have been warned!) to wash the stones of the resultant paste of ground stone and metal. Damp off the water and re-oil the stones. Repeat until you are satisfied. I did this about 3 times per bore.

Hi Kevin yes glaze is busted 😁 bought a triple legged drill mounted jobby. Worked quite well to be fair.

He went to Loughborough university - so was three years I assume. I know he got some pieces he made back home on the bus - but he had to use a van to get the extendable 6 seater table and chairs back - still in use today. He did a teaching degree (or whatever it was called back then!)

I feel so much better for seeing that Beauty.

I don’t think Chris does a pump for the Spitfire. I’m going to try and blue print mine and see how it goes. I have the old one still - but that is not in good condition. Though i still have to take the measurements of the body to outer and outer to star yet. If they are out then the pump is pretty much scrap - which will be disappointing to say the least.

Now that’s classy 🤔

I have an advantage there - it won’t cost me anything other than perhaps the base - unless the original dash is re-used as the base

I think I’ve probably asked this before but anyway. I asked my dad today about making me a new wooden dash for my Triumph Spitfire 1500 it currently has what looks like a plywood dash varnished to look like real wood. It doesn’t look bad but isn’t right. He used to be a teacher and cabinet maker. He still restores antiques. Trouble is he is getting on a bit and his wrists are going due to arthritis and probably abuse over the years hitting things! And he is 82 this year So if I’m going to do it I need to get him to do it sooner rather than later. He has a massive selection of veneers - everything from burr walnut, burr elm to oak and Australian black bean - and some even he doesn’t know what they are. He has enough of the burrs to mirror match them. i think they were originally walnut? So should I keep it original or go for something a bit different? - though I’ll not be going mad! It’s not a show car - certainly not original and will never be that way.