Anglefire

Thanks Pete - I did wonder if it was 1/4 but I have one and didn't seem to fit - but as it happens I did try my 1/4 adapter for screwdriver bits and seemed to work ok!

Looks like you have the same jack and stands as me! (Well the ones I bought, I made my own as a student when I was about 19 - tested on a press to 7tonnes from memory. Just a bit high at times on the Spitfire - but ideal on my old Disco! Actually after I adjusted them, the brakes felt much nicer - and the handbrake did seem to hold better - it wasn't great before. I'll bite the bullet and drop the wheels off and do it properly. But we are away next weekend so will either be one evening or in a week or two.

My handbrake is a little near the top and the brakes have had a good "bedding" in since being replaced - so I thought I'd adjust the rear shoes to just tighten them up a little. Well, after a couple of miles down the road where I stopped to drop my eldest off at her friends, I had to get out and readjust them back again as i was smoking! Knocked them bad a notch or two and got back home with no smoke on arrival but still feeling a bit hot - so knocked the passenger side a notch. The handbrake cables aren't tight - but I feel the adjustment isn't right still. Any tips? I did them on ramps so not hanging down or anything - and what size is the adjustment screws? I have everything under the sun and nothing quite fits! No rush I decided to put the car away and crack open a couple of cold ones. ?

I work from home sometimes as I can remote into the servers that I’m working on. But other times I have to go to site. Like tomorrow when I’ll be in Enfield - about 125miles away. So not practical in an “affordable “ electric car. So I’ll be going in my gas gussling diesel polluter. Actually it will do something like 45mpg and emit almost nothing. And still could do 155mph given I could legally do so.

I bought a Moss Honed rocker shaft kit a week or so back and decided to replace it as the original has been a bit tappety since the engine was replaced. Fairly simple job thought the pedestals were quite tight both off and on. Some interesting score marks on the old shaft and quite a bit of pad wear which won’t have helped the setting of the tappets. Old rockers on the bench with new adjacent. new in the car. Old shaft and rockers on the bench I’ll need to check the tappets again once the engine has cooled down and check to make sure the oil is getting up ok. Early days but sounds better - and since setting the clearance on the dizzy drive it seems to have better oil pressure - but I’ve not got the engine proper hot yet as I just went for a short run to my parents and back.

You have to apply for VHI "in person" at the post office with your V5 - Don't think you even need the insurance as they check it online. Once done (in my case anyway back in April) they asked me if my car was substantially modified and that was it. MOT remained in force until it ran out and I got some tax back. (But not back to Jan1 which peeved me slightly!)

Hi Colin - It's not bent much and is still the same plane as before - just bends around the tube. I'm not too stressed about the full mark - but knowing when its empty is handy! And I do have a gallon container in the boot just in case!

It’s not compulsory and I can’t see any reason why you couldn’t do it next if you don’t do it this time.

Yes that’s exactly what it is. I’m slightly sad in that when I fill up I reset it so I know roughly how many miles I have left - I know I have the gauge but given the shape of the tank it’s not linear and also I’ve not had mine working properly since I bought the car. I am hoping that it does now though

Mine was declared mot exempt when I changed mine to historic. I was asked then if it was substantially modified. Which it isn’t. But unless you have knowing substantially changed the car and then drive it without mot you are breaking the law. If you haven’t then you haven’t. Simple.

That was only taken with my iPhone so not that hi res (Well compared to the old days I guess it is, but not these days!)

Ooh just noticed the scotchlock - I hate them - must see what that's doing.

Had to go into the garage anyway so grabbed a quick shot. This any use? I can take more later.

I'll try and get a picture later - though I'm not sure mine is fitted properly! There is a front plastic lip though.

If that’s rubbish I would love to see a good one! does look a good trip roger. Enjoy Le Mans.

Following on from guppy’s oil issue I decided to check the end float on my dizzy drive tonight. Pulled out the dizzy, removed the pedestal and removed the existing gaskets. Pulled the drive gear out, Slipper a washer over the drive end and dropped it back in again. Refitted the pedestal nipping up the nuts and measured the gap with feelers and got 52thou in the gap. Removed the washer and measured it’s thickness and it was 60thou - I used a dial gauge because my calipers don’t do thou ?. Then I checked the feeler thickness and they measured 56 thou. So by my calculations I don’t need any gaskets in - but I put the thinnest I have which is 6thou so that’s an endfloat of 10thou which is too big? I did measure the gasket thickness using the dial gauge in the same way and it came in at 4thou. So on that basis it’s about 1thou too big a gap So Does it need a gasket?

My bits and bobs from Germany arrived today. Just got to work out how they all got together - though also need a spring compressor.

An old work mate does have a Tr6 (and 3a and lr series 2) - I’ll see if I can get hold of him tomorrow and ask him to check. Though I’m not sure how much he drives the 6 as it is totally concourse.

Guppy, is there anyone else with the same engine that could measure the temperature of their Dizzy to see how it compares with yours?

I think they don't work well with no stat in - as there is no back pressure - though don't ask me why

NonMember. My point exactly. But Shaun, but does have an mot so you know that the basics are at least safe and can confirm he is right on here!

I fitted a wide rad to my 1500 - when I took the old one out it was rotting in the corner by the expansion bottle - I think mine came from canleys. Easy job to change tbh - though I also replaced the frame - at the time I think Paddocks were the only place to have one in stock - a manufacturing issue I think. unless your frame is in good condition for the cost it’s worth changing it. I painted mine with buzzweld black rcp I think it was before fitting to give it a chance! Well done on the MOT - I’ve a few bits to do on mine before I get it looked at. Not going to MOT it though. Mostly on principle ?

Well, the bill is sat in my pending section of the credit card - £496 delivered. So about £30 more than the Euro one I mentioned before, but I do have a few other bits and bobs which come to a lot more than £30.

That first one is quite big - I was at the university of Birmingham the other week in their nano lab (working not studying ?) and they had a sequence of pictures that made a pin head look big. But yes it is a thing of beauty and amazing that they can make things so small.

You can get 8mm microbore pipe ? https://www.screwfix.com/p/wednesbury-wednesbury-microbore-copper-pipe-coil-8mm-x-10m/61031