Anglefire

Thought I'd drop a couple of the spark plugs out this evening - SWMBO has gone out and I'd finished work. I think they look generally ok - though the one has a bit of oil on it (No2)

Still there for sale for me.......

My Dad was a teacher and he often got bugs at the end of the summer term - either way he generally took two weeks to be human again after the traumer of the school year. I try and take Christmas off - so a couple of weeks - but often find I come down with something when you relax. ?

Chinese for tea?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-GT6-Oil-Pan-or-Sump-Side-Drain-75-Shipping/152807058730?epid=7010550867&hash=item239402ad2a:g:HTcAAOSw63FaHjxr Any good? I know its stateside.......

When I say fall back, the oil light comes back on again. And when hot the oil pressure drops to 30psi at 2000rpm - which is a bit low according to the specs.

Interesting - mine is the same as yours then and I fitted the JA765. Did it have the metal ring around the inlets?

Ignore me, just re-read the first post and they are 1.5mm

Silly question time! Freelander studs are M12 - but what nuts should you use on alloys? 1.25mm or 1.5mm? Or something else!

Definitely worth doing! I had replaced mine but leaked as did the first replacement - the Payen I finally got worked - http://www.fmecat.eu/selProd2.asp?make=112&model=298&litre=1.3&prdgrp=4&langID=1&engseal=1 Is the one that I think you would need if you do find it leaks.

Took mine out today for the first time since I changed the gasket and retuned the carbs. Running nice now and will idle at about 900 when hot. Starts with some choke. All I have to do now is to stop the choke sticking - it’s really close to not doing so - and if you drive off smartish the giggling along the road is enough to drop it back. Has a nice turn of acceleration too. ?

It could also be a air leak at the carbs or/and the manifold as has been found by a couple of us recently.

I can't think why you would have an earth there - surely thats just the end of the vacuum advance unit and will move in and out as it advances and retards the ignition?

I decided to have another look at my pressure this morning - as I have changed the oil, I thought I would see if I could work out how much went in. As I used a new can I poured out the remaining oil into my topup jug (Nice green quart Castrol one) - and it went way past the quart mark and was about to spill and there was still some more in the can So I poured half what was left back into the can to leave me with about 0.5ltr and poured that into the engine (Bearing in mind the dipstick was showing full already. So its now showing well full on the dipstick But started it up - still getting the initial 50psi after a couple of seconds to then fall back before rising to 80-90 and staying there until it warms up - so I think unless it blows up before then I'll strip it down next winter and see what the issue is. (though I'm trying to sort a shorten drill bit to clean the PRV seat in the meantime too) But after a few miles with the engine hot (oil may not be fully hot to be fair) but it did look a better pressure. Its also running alot better now I have the manifold leak sorted - does actually idle below 1000rpm. Need to twiddle some more as the needle is now, in theory too lean for the exhaust etc.

I do some too - but tend to only do my own clothes.........

I’ve been the the Pyrenees a few times - and into out of Andorra via the smugglers route a few times. Not that you would want to drive that in the Spitfire! Though there is a popular restaurant at the end of smugglers which I’ve been to a couple of times that is very good value. Scenery is stunning though.

Couple of washers would be fine

At some point I would like to fit minilites to my 1500 Spitfire - though not going for mad wide tyres 165 or 175 possibly. Do I need to change the studs (or recommended) to fit them? And if I do change them will the standard steel wheels still fit? I was just thinking I’d do the studs as the next pad change (I am going to fit the mintex pads I bought recently ish) on the front.

I drew a cam timing disk so I could stick it to the pulley - link to the thread is here

We have all been there to be honest Pete. Always go for the difficult fix first rather than trying the fairly simple. I mean why wouldn’t you ? I’ve still got an oil pressure “issue” on start up. Thought I’d fixed it but is back. I’ve ordered a 9/16 (well 14mm) drill bit which I’ll chop down to see if the seat is dodgy. If that doesn’t work it might be sump off to check the pump and see if blue printing it improves things.

No its an app called "Vehicle Smart" I have it on iOS - not sure if its on android too. I love it! Great for looking at registration numbers that you see on films and stuff.

Yeah mine did that too. Tis odd. As I say I think it could be the cooling effect of the evaporation of the cleaner?

Interesting - quick question - did you use brake cleaner and did the revs go up or down?

It’s a bit. Odd.

You can’t just do that as the electrical flow is normally via the ballast and effectively the ballast is shorted out when starting. So what you need to do is bridge the ballasted wire and not cut it