Anglefire

That or you get a hot leg or a squirt in the eye

Its a heck of a lot quieter than mine is! But I agree the belt does look a bit loose.

The Newman’s cam in my Spitfire has bigger clearances than standard- so mine is a little more tappety than most I guess.

First thing I'd do is check the tappet clearances and try again as it does sound tappety.

3 pints? I’d be pissed as a fart on that !

I suspect a lot of the canley Classic article is when the electric fans had a big cowl which although directs the air through the fan when running, effectively restricts the air when not. Or the brackerery shields the rad particularly when the rad is the smaller type and is marginal at best. I fitted a full width rad to my spitfire and has run lovely since. Temperature sits smack in the middle of the gauge. It used to overcool which although it had a thermostat fitted I suspect it was knackered or the wrong temperature range.

I was reading on my phone and thought it suggested there were some tappings off the alternator for the current - but confess thought that would be a bit optimistic! Flawless logic there!

US market ones had them on some Spitfires. By all accounts not terribly reliable. Don’t know why unless it was just early tech.

I’m living life on the edge and gone out in the “snow” in the bmw. I could be some time ? sounds a good result on the clutch though Mike - hope it does the trick ?

I read the article on the Canley Classic site which talks about electric fans and their opinion is that they in general block some of the radiator reducing it’s efficacy therefore resulting in the fan coming on more to keep the engine cool. Imho the best sort of fan is an viscous one. No power loss when the vehicle is keeping cool due to natural air flow but as the temperature off the radiator increases it stiffens up pulling more air through. And being progressive doesn’t result in big swings in temperature if sized correctly Modern ones have an electric heating element in them too but that is so that the air conditioning condenser can increase air flow to keep it working correctly.

Well that’s a good result.

I can’t quite work out how this one is wired but doesn’t seem to be whole current https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Smiths-Industries-Ammeter/132520185080?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20171010182013%26meid%3Da36c22d1411a4db682435ac258f5d766%26pid%3D100890%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D232544358818%26itm%3D132520185080&_trksid=p2056116.c100890.m2460

So is that 6 gauges Gully - seems a bit excessive ?

Ditch the clock and put both temp and pressure

Doesn't France have google Pete? Might have to use the phrase Le Google though

I replaced the braking system on mine - but on my previous modern I had to replace the M/C and used the onboard diagnostics system with a tool to close each line as each corner was bleed and it then operates the ABS to give a good pump out! - the fluid seemed to change ok and came out clean. I can't remember if the in is at the bottom and bleed at the top as I did it a couple of years ago.

I bought this one from eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classic-Mini-Oil-Pressure-Gauge-Kit-INC-Nylon-Pipe-T-Piece-Adaptor-rover-S-minor-/192310839616?hash=item2cc69e8940 And this gauge. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-SMITHS-OIL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-0-100-Psi-52-mm-KIT-CAR/112787410906?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I'm not overly worried about it being nylon. It runs together with the starter cable, so is protected from most damage.

I don't see how the fluid isn't changed as part of the normal bleeding process as the reservoir is at the top of the m/c? And if you expel it like has been suggested, there will be little fluid it in and again bleeding will remove the rest. And anyway Robin is removing the m/c so is a mute point in this case!

Yes mines oil pressure. Basically you take the oil switch out, and fit a tee piece - the one port you fit the switch back in and the oil pressure line (or sender if electric) goes in the other. I keep meaning to take some pictures.

I think draining may be a little difficult in so far as it never all comes out! Undo one bleed nipple - probably off side rear - and pump the breaks and some will come out - but once the master cylinder is empty that is pretty much all that you will get out. Then change the master cylinder and add more fluid and bled. Farthest to nearest to the master cylinder. And go round at least twice to make sure all the old fluid is out as well as the air. Mind you, if you intend to go silicon then I’d change the pipework calipers and rear cylinders first.

Learn something new every day - I know you can get them for industrial applications - often to control valves, particularly steam - but never thought about one for a car!

Oil temp or pressure? Temp won't be mechanical it will be electrical with a sender like the water temperature gauge - pressure can be either. I've currently lashed in a mechanical one but want to fit it permanently when I've worked out where to put it! My modern brain thinks electrical is better - and I did get one cheap with a cheap sender - but the sender doesn't match the gauge so when powered sits at about 20psi! So I got a mechanical one (new about £44) and a plastic connecting pipe (Actually from a mini place on ebay!) for a few quid. And that works well.

Bought some M1144 pads which arrived yesterday - and the box says "Not for use on the Public Highway" - whats that all about!

I don’t think recommend is the right phrase. Mandatory to connect to either the solenoid which you could use as a junction- that’s how mine is currently wired (P.O.) - or back to the battery directly.

The rest of mine has turned up today - or at least I hope thats what is in the box from Rimmers