Anglefire

Went out in my Spitfire this morning for the first time since I changed the steering wheel. Realised as the indicators weren't self cancelling that I'd forgot to fit the pin in the back of the wheel - but no big deal. Then realised the left hand ones were working. Checked in the car park and the one way the green tell tale flashed, the other the oil and battery light just dimmed slightly. Then realised coming back that the right hand ones aren't either. Then the rev counter stopped working. So gets home and starts to check and find the bracket holding the rev counter is quite loose - and then that the bracket is twisted - so took the bracket off - found to wires on the one bracket - so earth wires - one goes to the fog light switch. Refitted the bracket, checked and sprayed the plug from the indicator/horn stalk switch to the loom with contact cleaner. Then find one 35A blown. No obvious cause so replaced the fuse - but still no indicators or hazzards. But the rev counter works (After the usual tap!) Or fog lights. Not sure about the brake lights as I've not checked those - head lights work as does main beam (Though doesn't flash) Gave up now as I need to sort some stuff out before I go to Edinburgh tomorrow. Anything obvious to check before I dig out the wiring diagrams?

Not been an issue with pre-1960 vehicles (The insurance bit!) Well yes sort of. They can't use that as an reason as they allow the practice! From a practical perspective it might make it easier to argue. But you would still have to prove it was roadworthy at the time of the accident. But I'm not going to argue that you shouldn't have an MOT!

There is even a check list on the DVLA website - not much too it! https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/449392/mot-inspection-checklist-vt29.pdf

Clive, I don't disagree with any of your arguments. But even with an MOT in your hand, you end up in court, its not worth a pinch of salt as it only truly valid for that one day as it has to be kept in a roadworthy condition at all times. Now, I agree that you have a stronger case with a valid MOT, but if your tyres have worn below minimum or the brakes have worn out then, it is no longer roadworthy! Its been the same for pre-1960's cars for some time and there is no evidence of a major statistical change for pre-and post 1960's cars. But I also agree that there are potentially a lot more cars from the 70's that are now affordable for many who just want a car and don't give a stuff. But then they would buy a 10year old modern for £500 if they were that way inclined? I haven't decided about what I'll do with mine yet. There is no reason why you couldn't do a "MOT" check list and go through that annually or every 3/6/9/12 months - would be equally valid.

As I understand from reading the documentation linked to above by Pete, if the vehicle was available with any options of engine size, gearbox etc, that is not a significant change, nor is a chassis swap or monococ swap as long as its the "same" as original. Suspension changes may be considered a substantial change depending on what they are - but if its for environmental or safety reasons then it's ok. I would say a Gitfire would not be exempt as its a different number of pots and never available as an option. Unless it was changed more than 30years ago - and you can prove it! Although the MOT rules apply from 20th May, the current forms are not updated to reflect the revised date so it can't yet be applied for.

Vehicle of Historic Interest - essentially yes!

The Tax rules only changed on 1st April so nothing changed until then!

Just checked and mine is due on the 30th May - so will also be testing it! I'm also going to try and get it registered as a VHI this afternoon so will see what that results in come MOT time! I guess nothing until its due for tax again in June/July or whenever it runs out - Unless it gets taxed for 12months from now........

This reminded me to check the Tax rules had changed - which they have so I can now declare mine a VHI and get the tax back as well.

Oh and they do young driver insurance too. Black box.

Not sure if they can do anything but have a look at marmalade insurance. I’m insuring my wife’s car for my daughter whilst she is learning through them and it’s £150 for three months. It’s an overlay insurance. But they do do a policy that a young driver can learn on and then keep going once past. That was about £1500 for pretty much any car. But don’t know if that would include classics.

Ah. Yes I bet that’s it

I used POR 15 on some rock sliders and the paint did come off fairly quickly. Even on the bits that didn’t come into contact with rocks ? Might have been prep to be fair but does go on nice. Which is why I now prefer the buzzweld paints because it does go on a less than perfect surface and does convert any rust to an inert compound.

Interesting. When I looked on the Michelin site last night they didn’t list them below 15”.

Its probably the same stuff!

Looks like the smallest size is actually 15".

I had winter tyres (wintracs) on my discovery for 2 winters and they were so much better in the wet/cold compared to the previous 5 years on ATR’s. I have heard of the ones you mention Clive and the comments have all been good. And I fully agree about tyres for our classics. Why spoil the cloth for a hapeth of tar?

Either Buzzweld or Corroless paint is the stuff to use (they are the same thing) - various different options - and they do stuff to spray in the cavities. http://www.buzzweld.co.uk/cavity.html

As I said the one I had was a bit meah ?

RCD should be fitted to any building away from the main property - I'd be inclined to put two separate ones on - one 100mA one on fixed appliances such as pillar drills and grinders that are on fused spurs and a 30mA one on the general circuits.

Thanks Roger - but my Dad already has a selection of veneers that I can have - pretty much anything you can think of! Oak, Walnut, Elm to name but 3! Mark

I remember working on a power station in around 1985 when the shunt resistor was a 3” length of 6mm sq bar. (Or there abouts) - but I guess it was measuring 2000A .

Thanks Roger, yes I’m planning to get my Dad to redo my dash - got decide on the veneer ? Thanks Richard that’s very useful. ? Well there is certainly an argument to that Pete. But I’ve bought it now so it’s going in ?

I have an oil pressure gauge currently lashed into the car - but want to fit it in a more suitable location- ie in the dash! Where is the best place? I was thinking around where the current position of the fog light switch - but don’t know what is behind this particular

Not clear how soon after the car was handed back, but I’m guessing given production deadlines within 6weeks or so would be my guess. Shame but at least he did drive it, there is at least one in the current series where the owner died before it was competed.