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David Manners is just around the corner from Fuzz's new restoration business Tootaa Classics where it's now filmed. My understanding is that they actually get the bits donated for free so the discount ruse is just for the camera....

The bit I filmed was last September but this was before they had sneaked away the car for restoration.... Looking on the DVLA website the car was only MOTd on 18th Jan this year so I suspect the restoration finished around then.

No doubt many of you will have seen the GT6 Car SOS Episode the was on National Geographic Channel on Thursday 29th March. Nat Geo commission the series and it won't be on Terrestial TV for about a year when it comes onto More 4. However, at the moment there is an online link to see the programme, not sure it's official and it may get taken down if Nat Geo notice due to copywrite but here's the link if you are quick! http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x6h2cwi Also as you may notice may car features as the example that Fuzz and Tim Drive, so my car is a TV star now (and if you look closely you will see me in the driving seat in some of the shots!)

I was a bit surprised when I read the consultation document and it had the stats for pre 1960 vehicles that are already MOT exempt. Although you can get them, MOTd voluntarily only 6% of pre 1960 cars actually bother. You'd have thought this would be higher. In terms of what constitutes a substantially modified vehicle, the Government have issued a proposed set of rules and it's based around the current 8 point rule and as has been mentioned a maximum of 15% power increase. This sounds incredibly difficult to police without checking power output on a rolling road! If not it's a real difficult thing to prove, a standard 2.5TC engine would fall well within the 15% whereas as the worst case (or best depending how you look at it!) a TR6 CP engine would be an increase of up to 58% depending on the model of GT6 as GT6 power outputs varied (Mk1 = 95BHP, MK2 = 104BHP, MK3 early = 98BHP MK3 late = 95BHP). Plus of course even a 2L engine may have been modified with hot cam, flowed head, extractor manifold/exhaust etc and be kicking out a fair bit more without any real obvious difference in look under the bonnet to the non Triumph expert. So it's going to be rather interesting as to how the 15% rule will be implemented in reality.

Check out the switch first with a multimeter. Easy to get at, just remove the heater knobs (held in place with small Allen Grub screws) and then the centre dash panel held in by 4 screws in the corners. You'll then be able to see the rear of the switch and check out the wiring to ensure nothing has come loose and then check power at the terminals using a multimeter for the two switch positions.

Celebrity antiques road trip on BBC 2 tonight, does anyone on here own this car?

I undid the engine mounts and jacked the engine up about and inch or so when I did mine. If you change to alloy do one at a time leaving the rack clamped up and it will stay aligned. In your case do the one that has sheared leaving the other one clamped. And clamp up before you remove the other side. One other option that I have heard of being used is to have a poly bush or rubber one on the steering column side and an alloy one on the other side. The alloy one will clamp firmly and stop any rack movement that you get with the give of the rubber or polybush ones but the soft one on the column side will take out some of the shock that would be transmitted up the column.

Triumph Fitted the prop with the joint at the back, don't know whether there is a reason for this but that's definitely how it was fitted. An MOT tester once tried to tell me mine was the wrong way around, I told him nope that's BLX mine is fitted the way around that the factory fitted them!

Just watched a film called Petroleum Spirit, film was surreal and pretty crap TBH but at least it has a couple of Triumphs in it!

The original panel is made of fibre board, same material as the glove boxes and engine valances etc.

My Carpet section is much longer and shaped to go under the bar and part way over the tunnel above the diff/drive shafts. See picture. I do have a rear seat fitted but that shouldn't make any difference to the carpet which is from one of the expensive moulded sets. Maybe your carpet is from a cheaper set and is shorter then the original?

Casper, Just checked the manual, it's not a pin, it's actually threaded with a lock nut, the manual even shows how to adjust. Easy fix then, just cut down a bolt of the right thread and add a lock nut...

I'd tap a thread in the hole for the pin and cut the shank off a suitable sized bolt, screw it in with pliers/ molegrips with a dose of loctite on the threads to ensure it stays in place.

Hi, There is a pin on the gearlever and a plate on the extension. In order to move the lever across far enough to engage reverse it needs to be pushed down to allow the pin to slip under the plate. Maybe either the pin or the plate are missing from your lever or extension. See picture.

Alan, I did an article in the Courier a couple of years back on the rear seat.... pm me your email address or send an email to me at gt6@tssc.org and I'll send you the text and photos. Cheers, Andy Cook (TSSC GT6 Register Secretary)

I'm intending to go to this on the Saturday and Sunday. It's also the Club Triumph National Day on the Sunday. So 3 events in one weekend... *TR Register Weekend *Standard Triumph Marque Day *Club Triumph National Day What with TriumFest being a couple of week's before it will be a busy July!

I've never seen holes like that before and I know my GT6s pretty well being the register secretary so I don't think they are original. Maybe a previous owner drilled them for fitting something like racing harnesses?

It's the annual Triumph car day at the Ace Cafe this weekend. Great Historic venue, delicious grub and a car park full of Triumph cars and some tasty bikes. Whats not to like? Runs from 11:30ish http://www.ace-cafe-london.com/event_view.aspx?event_id=2105&date=11/06/2016%2000:00:00 Ace Cafe is on the North Circular Ace Cafe London Ace Corner North Circular Road Stonebridge London NW10 7UD

Anyone else going to the classic racing at Crystal Palace tomorrow? I note John Davies is on the entry list in his Vitesse in the pre 1970 modified and specialist production car class. I'm hoping to go along in the GT6 to watch.. http://www.motorsportatthepalace.co.uk/

There used to be a supplier ranking on one of the old versions of the TSSC website. Unfortunately some of the suppliers didn't like being ranked low (even though they deserved it) I won't mention any suppliers with a bad reputation on this thread, but my own personal recommendation is Paddocks, Canley Classics, Manners Parts 4, Fitchets, Moss, Sports Car Supplies. Notice there are a couple of well known names missing from this list, this is intentional!

You need to measure the end float with the assembly tightened up with an ungreased bearing, not unloaded. If you have no DTI, look for very slight play, if there is no play it's too tight and you need additional or thicker shims. Once you've got the end float right strip the assembly down again and grease the bearing. The nut should have been very tight, if it's loose then the nut probably hadn't locked. There is an issue in that most of the nuts available nowadays are too thick (The originals were special nylocks thinner than standard) and the locking part of the nylock won't lock properly as the end of the thread on the shaft tapers slightly. To avoid the issue of thinner nuts just use locktite to lock the nut.

Yes in this case, but as a principle never trust the 3rd party publications as they are incorrect sometimes.... Triumph regularly updated theirs by sending out addendums to the dealerships which is why the originals were in ring binders, the addendums had the changed or additional pages with instructions of what to discard. The paperback versions are after the cars had finished production so are complete with the latest addendum incorporated.

when I had the 4 wheel alignment checked on my GT6 I took a print out from the official factory workshop manual, always go by the official Triumph manual data, never trust Haynes or other 3rd party publications as they may or may not be right. A genuine manual is a must if you own a classic car and a sound investment and the Vitesse/GT6 manual is readily available reprinted in paper back form so no excuse for not splashing out on one.

Pete, Christmas and sprouts, follow this link play the game and have fun! http://www.eyegas.com/sproutifarts/