ShaunW

The occasional drip is 'original spec' isn't it. ?

Dick, I thought about bonnet pins but with so much flex it could be tricky lining them up. I also don't really want to make a permanent mod to the bonnet for a (hopefully) tempory issue. Colin, yes that's a concern but the bonnet is all crazed anyway so I'm not too concerned. Unclipping the catches helps a little but not so much that holding the middle down puts too much outward pressure on them.

.... If garages can't test to the right standard perhaps there should be a different category of test centre as there is for HGVs.

This business about testing to original spec... If anyone is unhappy with their testing station they need to report it to the DoT, saying that they aren't complying with the (lucrative) licensing requirement. It's no different to not following the regulations for a new car and there's absolutely no excuse for not being able to test to the appropriate standard apart from ignorance, laziness or incompetence. We shouldn't be hunting around for a decent mot station. I'm not going out of my way to make life easier for poor garages to continue to exist, it's their problem, not mine. While I'm on a rant, self declaration for modifications isn't a new thing, we've done it on our insurance policies for years. It's illegal and remains that way be it for insurance or the new declaration for MoTs. Right, where's my tablets ?

Thx Pete. After a bit more research I could rivet on one of these.... Nut plate Is there much under that section of the body directly under the bonnet rear vouvres? Within say about an inch. Shame there's an even number of vent slots, it'll have to have it about 1/2" off centre lol.

It's got the conical rubbers and the outer edges close to the right level. I did try some packing in the middle but it takes an inch or more and just pushes it even more out of line.

Have you tried looking here? Triumph wiring diagrams

My fibreglass bonnet fits where it touches and that about it. I suspect many are similar. The problem is that it sits very high in the centre, it either rattles or at speed lifts even higher. I don't feel like embarking on a big job at this time of year reshaping the frame etc but was wondering if anyone had any ideas about how to hold it down, for now. It only takes a few pounds of pressure and it sits quite nicely. A captive nut on the panel you can see through the vents and a bolt that goes through the vents with a small saddle on it? Don't want to weld a nut on because the paint is visible, is there a fitting that's a nut you can trap in a drilled hole? Thought about a magnet but I don't think it'll hold. And ideas? I wouldn't even mind a nice centre catch being visible.

? Much more satisfying than just clicking 'add to basket'. All I need now is a rusty one. I've just got a hole with a chrome stick poking through it at the moment. The heat blows through it like a hair drier.

Nice work guppy, very nice indeed. Can I ask where you got the chrome ring on the bottom of your gearstick gaiter?

I haven't got any constructive comments, but aren't cameras brilliant these days. Ease, convenience and amazing quality.

There’s certainly plenty of sound and smell left. It's a bit more civilised but still a million miles from being a modern experience.

My issues were different but you might find something in here that you haven't tried. There's some comments about removal too. Bell, gbox & od come out together. http://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/2791-d-type-od-running-out-of-ideas/?tab=comments#comment-26485

Looking around the car today, I couldn't resist showing you all this almost invisible touch up someone's done. You might need to look carefully to see how skillfully it's been blended in. Quite a challenge with a totally different colour! Sorry if the guy who did it is on the forum, but if you are, tut tut tut.

Are you looking for a new panel or getting yours refurbed? I've done a lot of veneering, marquetry, French polishing etc (not commercially) and wondered what sort of price people pay for this type of thing and if there's any demand. I'd be interested to know if you can find a company that suits you, if not then maybe I should think about starting a little pocket money business. Www.thewoodveneerhub.co.uk is a good place to look for materials or inspiration. I've used them many times. FYI this is eucalyptus and holly veneered onto a turned cylinder, not easy and the holly was from one piece which was really hard to find, when did you last see a holly tree being felled with a big trunk? It couldn't be sanded because the black eucalyptus bleeds into the white holly, and scraping it was difficult because of the random grain. A dash would be much more straightforward and the finish would be like glass. Not the best photo ever as I just snapped it now.

+1 on that one Badwolf, makes more difference than you think. Wallpapering scissors are good for cutting foil/foam and carpet too but that's a bit naughty really because they're meant to be kept in best condition for their job. On a similar topic, if you're gluing carpet down it's almost inevitable that you get some contact adhesive showing at some edges. To get rid of it, scrub the edge with some thinners on a carpet offcut. Thinners shifts the glue and the carpet fibres stick to whatever is left. Don't use too much thinners or it will soak the edge as break down the glue you actually want in there. (guess what I've been doing today )

We all love a bit of insulation Mine's about 8mm thick so I had to put my seat rails up on some spacers otherwise the basket was a bit low and also the rails bowed when bolted down at both ends. It's definitely made a significant difference to the noise level. Make sure the surface is clean because as sticky as it seems, it can lift in concave areas especially if you're sticking stretch carpet down. I did everywhere except the wheel arches. The only holes I had a bit of trouble finding again were for the seat belt latches because you can't poke up through them from underneath.

I like your bender....if I did that I'd probably just pull my bench over.

It's not quite that bad. I did have a car once that sounded the horn when I turned left. It took about 3 or 4 toots before I realised it was me, till then I'd spun around and glared at cars nearby with that 'what the heck are you doing that for' look.

Derek now I think about this more I think I've wired it to the accessories feed from the ignition, and that could be the horn relay not lights. Lol some help I've been eh! I'll have another look tomorrow and do it properly, probably the way you mentioned or soldered.

Well that's what I plan to do. But I didn’t have any wire the right colour, or a 2 into 1 bullet connector.... and the white coming out of the loom was a bit short to start messing about with. So did a temporary fix. There was a wire from the headlight relay to the ignition, so I made up a short lead with a piggyback spade on one end. It popped on the relay, and the 12v slid on that. It's not bad at all really but when I tidy up the scuttle (? The bit with all the battery and coil on etc) I'll do a proper job.

FYI new 3 ohm coil installed. New 12v ignition switched supply taken from the unfused side of fuse 1. Works like a charm. Thank all. I'm looking forward to seeing how it gets up the road but suddenly my leccy fuel pump has started making a lot more noise than usual and it's warmer than I'd like really. The one in there is a Facet posi-flow. Any recommendations for a replacement?

It's pretty close, fuse 1.

I'm no pro but I'm guessing they're not original. Hehe. I did say they were ify. Clips might help someone out though, not everyone has scrap metal laying around and they're surprisingly stiff.

mmmm and my trim code was 11, so I ordered fine grain seat covers. Only to find that all the other vinyl looked a lot coarser . She definately a bitza. Sorry to the OP about the thread drift. I'll clear off now.