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Not sure what the little things above are, but it's a 5-port head. Two of the red plugs are in inlets (the round holes) the other three exhaust. Push-rods and tappets. It's a tall engine with a very low-down camshaft.

If you're going to try levering the wing top trims off, be warned! They may be VERY firmly fixed, possibly even glued. Screwdriver slipping isn't the only risk - the leverage force can put dents in the wing. Also, the black trims (late 1500) are plastic and cannot be removed intact, AFAICT.

Just FYI, that's not his membership number, it's a "reputation" score and likely to change over time. Also, neither BadWolf nor I are called "Dan", that's a sort of grading system.

First off, the bolt instead of a stud... was it the front one? This was normal fitment on some Vitesses and GT6s because the stud could catch on the bonnet. I don't know if it was ever "official" but seems to have been normal. Anyway, high idle with the breather hose off. Yes, that's expected. The Smiths valve restricts the flow to maintain a small depression in the breather system. With the whole lot properly connected there's little opportunity for flow into the crank case (just the blow-by gasses) so it doesn't take much flow to get that depression. Also, a lot of the flow you get is inert, so the air/fuel quantity is unaffected. With the hose off, there's a whole world of fresh air available, and quite a bit of extra air flows in, hence the idle speed is raised.

Like they said - jack under the diff. The car is supported on the diff in normal use (because that's where the rear spring is attached) so it's definitely strong enough.

PRV is "Pressure Relief Valve" - it prevents the oil pressure getting too high when the pump's working hard, by opening up and bleeding the excess oil back into the sump... or the pump inlet. I'd have to check the plumbing diagram, because if you remove the PRV and its outlet is to the inlet side of the pump then there's a big air leak just where you need to get all the air out. I'd stick with the loosen-the-filter method.

On Windows 10 you can do it with "paint". Open the image, click on "home" then "rescale" and enter either a size in pixels or a percentage. It's a Microsoft tool so it's all changed and things are under names you'd never think of. Then File->save as to put it somewhere without overwriting your original.

Because if the problem is as Nick believes - weak pump struggling to open the filter valve when air-locked - the oil pressure switch, being downstream of the filter, is not going to help.

All of my sump plugs have always been 7/16" square. A 1/2" double hex fits snugly enough if they've not been gorilla'd. I don't have a 7/16 drive socket set.

The only time I've heard of them before was somebody asking exactly the same question. And getting no useful answers. Either nobody has ever actually used them or all their customers sign a NDA before entering into a contract. 😜

Not here just half an hour ago!

I believe it was 5.2 but I've no idea what that actually meant.

Yes, good quality pads -- heck, just NEW pads instead of old, glazed ones -- make a world of difference to braking. Also, general maintenance things like adjusting and bleeding, which have often been neglected for many years on a new-to-you car.

I can see Iain's point. It's only a cosmetic change but, unless you're paying attention to the URL bar, the page header gives no clue that what you're browsing (and note that it doesn't even highlight the fact that you are browsing!) is the forum, not the club's web site. It's not easy designing a good UX (and somebody will always complain no matter how good you get it!) The header is quite different from the main web site, all it needs is the word "forum" somewhere to make it properly clear.

I had the same problem with my GT6 a while back. The groove in the gearstick can get damaged by bad fitting but there's also a problem with some of the after-market circlips being too loose, having rounded edges, not being properly tempered (so they distort permanently rather than springing in properly) and other such evils. I fixed mine by pinching the circlip, although I may have also taken a file to the groove to clean the upper edge a bit.

Had to go into the office today so I drove the GT6.

155s are still available in good quality, they're just not listed by the high street rip-off merchants fitting centres.

My Mk1 has a silver air box but that's not really a good indication. I don't remember whether the late Mk1 I had 30 years ago was silver or black but since it had a 1600 radiator it probably wasn't a good indication either.

There are definitely a good few NPT threads in the oil-ways of the Triumph 6, but not all of them the same (maybe not even all NPT) Then there's that aluminium beast of a plug above the filter, which is some huge taper thread, tightened up then battered flat to prevent you undoing it.

If the recup seal fails badly then you get total failure but without loss of fluid. More often, they fail a bit, and you get weak effort and/or slowly receding pedal like Adrian described.

Like Pete says, Aux should not power up the circuit. I feel a careful tracing of the wiring may be due.

I do remember from when I owned a PI estate that nos 2 & 5 are the ones with banjo bolts. And the setting up procedure for the correct injection timing is complex. However, engines are mostly a lot more tolerant of injection timing than ignition timing - remember that the Bosch K-jetronic didn't even bother timing, it just dribbled constantly, like a carburettor, and worked well enough to outlast the Lucas PI by over a decade! Remember, too, that people put engines together with the distributor drive miles out and "fix" it by rotating the plug leads... and the engine runs fine. The same is perfectly possible with the PI unit!

It goes to the broken terminal on the right hand switch, with nothing left to connect to. Those switches are supplied with the upper part of the harness attached to them, there should never be a loose wire in there, so it's either got cut or tugged off. Repair is likely to be tricky. Sorry.

Oh dear. Well, given the "interesting" approach the previous owner had to mechanical things, and the widespread bizarreness inflicted on car electrics even by relatively competent mechanics, you're probably going to find a few oddities in the wiring. As Pete says, you need a relay. The contacts of this relay should go from live to the solenoid, and that's probably a direct-to-the-battery type "brown" live. The control windings of the relay should be in a circuit from ignition switch (white wire) through column switch and the inhibitor switch to ground. Which order the two switches and the relay are in doesn't matter but they must all be in series and powered from the ignition switch. You do not want your overdrive engaged all night while the car is parked up but with the gear lever over to the right by accident! If there's live power on the inhibitor switch (either side) when the ignition is off then something is wrong with the wiring.

No, that's not the number Colin was after. We want the serial number, which was stamped, not cast, into the top face of the cast iron main housing - the flat but slightly rusty bit next to the nice shade of blue in the bottom right corner of Colin's photo. The ball sits directly in the cup in the remote housing. I think the springs sit directly on the ball. The hole in the ball should be just snug to slide along the lever.