johny

No I find that tends to lift the car off the axle stands so with the wheel off the ground I just get the screwdriver between the wishbone and fixing bracket to lever the wishbone around to see if it's excessively easy to move.

Ok but I take it if you get battery voltage while running it's got to be a non ballasted system?

If the coil -ve doesn't show 0 you've then got to close the points or short it to ground which is why I suggested measuring running. Is there a problem doing it like that?

As a definitive answer to whether you have a ballast system or not you need to measure the voltage at the positive terminal of the coil with the engine running. Anything under 12v indicates a ballast system which needs a coil with a resistance of around 1.5 ohms. The resistor reduces the supply voltage to the coil after starting so a 3 ohm type would give a weak spark

Lift the MC rubber cover, could be leaking there so an easy repair.....

Fraid that fluid must have gone somewhere Paula. It's either along the master cylinder operator rod under the rubber cover and down the hole into the carpet or along the slave cylinder rod into the bell housing☹️

Iain perhaps they've changed the spec because the one I find on the Penrite site for their Classic Light (mineral) 20/60 shows API SF....

Can you explain a bit more Iain as just saying something is kak isn't very convincing😳

The ball race bearing is the only locating point so a lot of wheel side thrust must be taken by the u/j and diff. The bearing is press fitted on to the shafts parallel section not the taper which is for the hub and I don't remember there being a shoulder for it to go up against either so I think it's just done by measurement. Best to look at excellent diagram in the free to download work shop manual.....

I look for side play in the trunnions by pulling on the wheel when off the ground (up and down not so important as my wheels are not often airborne when driving😩) and a large screwdriver to lever with for rubber bushes.

Surprised it spins ok as the ball bearing would have to be pretty shot for that much play. Could it just be loose in the trunnion housing? Dont know if you can buy complete half shaft assemblies already reconned....

hmmmm not convinced on the grease idea whereas WD40 dries off possibly leaving an insulating coating without collecting dirt.....

Most of my rubber bushes are original and look knackered but you only have use a lever, as any MOT tester should, to show there's no excessive play plus it drives great😊

What engines that Clive?

I think the axial play is going to be down to outer ball bearing wear so the shaft might be reusable. Wonder what it's like to turn?

The bushes usually come fitted in new shocks so I'd be surprised if they're originals however do wonder what state the shocks are in....

No disagreement that synthetics are better but if contaminated with carbon and fuel I think their advantage is seriously reduced. They come into their own in moderns with 20k between changes and it comes out looking the same as it went in.....

I really can't see the point of synthetic oils in our engines, apparently the average annual mileage of a classic is 900 and even if it does more the scheduled changes are much more frequent than moderns which is what synthetics are best for. Our old low tune engines contaminate the oil much more rapidly than a modern so a normal oil changed frequently is ideal.....

Depends how many stations they build but Spains a big country so the distance to the nearest one can be quite a way. They do have a prebook system now but over a month in advance as the on the spot demand is high and so of course you have to wait while any prebookers go through. The good?thing is that up to 10 years old it's 2 years and possibly a lot of miles between tests. I think Europe wants this system in the U.K. and of course guess who'll pay for all these new stations.....

The principal function of MOT is to reduce accidents that are caused/worsened by the condition of the vehicle. The number of accidents in this category is minimal so it's the drivers and roads that need the attention but of course that's too difficult/expensive/unpopular. I've used the testing system in Spain which looks very similar to Ireland and driven miles to the nearest gov station and then waited literally hours in a queue. The price is also fixed as there's no competition so be careful what you wish for (and I believe is already on its way)....

Yes that's the original design clutch master cylinder sold by JP. Has a smaller reservoir than yours but running out of clutch fluid isn't as serious as on the brakes😳

There's already one spring on my throttle pedal and I've always meant to see if I can squeeze in a second one although now I've got used to the light standard set up....

I fitted an extra spring to my Vitesse carb operating arm because I found the existing set up too light for my heavy right foot but years later believe the side loading it gave has greatly accelerated the spindle wear on the rear carb😖

Nothing, however sometimes you don't notice the changes and it's useful to have a fresh pair of knowlegeable ears listen to catch bearing wear early before you need a crank regrind....

I would recommend listening to the engine though as at some stage, depending on the mileage you do, it will benefit from a bottom end refresh. Mine had big ends at 40k and then recently at 70k my brother heard my mains so it had those and a new oil pump fitted with engine in situ. Both times the shells were just going through to copper....