johny

I found my old rad had deteriorated externally as well with the thin copper fins rotting so not making good thermal contact with the tubes...

Hi Chris, how old is the rad, has it been recored recently? Even with the best flushing out (not tried caustic soda though?) Ive never managed to get them back to the performance of a new core/rad and Ive read that a recore is recommended every 20yrs. However those cheapy aluminium jobs available look great and do have good reports on here......

Coolant should come out of the vent pipe otherwise you either have a air in the system or something is expanding (hoses?) to accommodate the volume change. The rad level is obviously critical and it should be brimmed with the engine running although any air their should be pushed out during warm up. The pipe itself is best off being clear and rigid enough to not collapse under the vacuum produced when sucking the coolant back on cool down. Ive suffered with hoses, including the the overflow, not being tight enough so they dont leak liquid (but maybe steam when hot although its so little you cant see it) and then on cooling allow air to be sucked in. It results in always finding the rad level a little low and not being able to keep the overflow pipe always filled as it should be....

well its been a bit of a marathon but at least now you can relax in the knowledge that youve got the best possible standard Trumph box fitted but, of course, in none of the changes did Triumph ever address the problem of that layshaft☹️

For me it's just a case of elimination as with points I'm always wondering if the gaps right and the condenser OK (especially if it's not running right) where as, in my experience, electronic usually works or doesn't.....

+1 got one on my brakes, brilliant and I'll get another one instead of overhauling it! Then theres sellers on ebay with the same thing on as 'uprated' items at more than 3 times that price

There's aluminium rads on eBay at very reasonable prices which although copies seem to be pretty good apart from poor alignment on the top hose connection

Funny I was going to say it doesn't look very worn as you can still the original surface. Difficult to tell from a photo how far off the rivets it is but I know even a brand new plate doesn't have a lot of meat on it....

Or try driving the car with the gearbox cover removed😳

I believe somebody has used the later Dolomite 1850 internals in your box as they are better. The clutch friction plates are interchangeable so you need an 1850 one....

I like Gullys suggestion of a brake tester as I think it's far more likely the problem is with a front brake....

A cheaper and easier alternative is to change your diff ratio to drop cruising revs but at the cost, of course, of a bit of acceleration....

Im afraid these have become very sought after so do come up on ebay but at a price of up to 700 pounds for a 'kit'. This will be a gearbox that hasn't been refurbished but should work plus shorter propshaft, speedo gear drive, mounting bracket and OD wiring....

mines a mk 1 but reckon itll be the same where it comes through floor and crosses to outrigger. Then carries on all the way along the side of outrigger and chassis rail - sorry no photo but its pretty straight forward.....

Yes as NM says no problem but if you could free off that bolt before it becomes well an truly stuck in place you'd be saving yourself a real #@%*!

Yes that sounds like the bolt is seizing in the trunnion steel sleeve and if really stuck can only be dismantled by hacksawing the bolt either side of the trunnion....

I think its asking a lot of the little fuel pump valves to seal perfectly especially when there's no pressure in the system so there will always be some run back. I fitted a new pump rather than overhaul the original and it works fine but I don't know how well the valves seal as I haven't got an extra filter installed...

I've had this effect not on my car but a motorbike and it was due to a disc brake piston(s) sticking. When this happens the pad is kept much closer to the disc causing it to rub (you might find it getting hot) and consequently there's less pedal travel....

Certainly looks like the halfshaft is running quite close to the chassis rail Bob (or is that an optical illusion) although I know once the driver's in it the car will settle some. Mines done 80k easy miles now on the original spring and the wheels sit pretty much vertical with nobody in it....

How many miles has your car done Bob? Im surprised your spring is still like this as by now an original should have flattened out to give at least vertical wheels. Maybe its not an original or, if it is, never carried more than just the driver but either way I agree a block will sort it out.

It does run the risk of unnecessarily straining the overdrive unit as its really designed as a means of dropping the revs when cruising and not for the load of hard acceleration which is why it not used on lower gears. If you see the epicyclic gears inside you can appreciate this.....

I've seen one or two diffs with lumps pulled off them and that's not something you repair very easily!

The trouble is the list of items to carry in our limited boots starts expanding: jack, board, axle stand. All for something that these days, taking how many miles the average Triumph does, is a very rare occurrence.....

yes I suppose its possible not enough lube is getting to the friction surface so it could stick...

surely you must have carried some blocks with you to get the jack to the right height?