johny

I take it the noise wasnt produced by the original pads and the news ones are the correct type (believe the GT6 had two versions of the type 16 calipers fitted)?

Well for running in the oil doesnt want to be too good so definitely no synthetics or additives....

As contact with the fan is the problem I go with Pete's suggestion of rotaing the top hose. Loosen the clip on the thermostat housing and twist the hose round on the exit pipe and its middle should rise or lower depending on rotation direction....

Id be tempted just to cut off the end inch of the adjuster bar and maybe put a matching washer under the nut of the alternator bolt.....

and luckily I didnt have to walk far.....

Great, I'll have another go at mine although the most important indication, empty, has already been conclusively proved😣

Ive been fighting a poor fuel reading in my Vitesse for years and got an improvement by straightening the sender float rod so that zero really is zero now. However I still cant get more than 3/4 full and although Ive checked internally it must be snagging somewhere because once removed I can get a 100% reading. To check this Im going to fashion a wire hook to put through the filler and engage with the float rod so that I can lift it up in situ and verify its range of movement......

yes Im quite pleased as Ive saved the cost of a new steel bridge piece (not much point getting another ally one) and all the hassle of changing it. And with M10 Allen bolts I cant see much chance of anyone mixing them up with the original bolts🤗

This has come up before and the result was that as the bushes are now stainless steel they wont corrode so dont need sealing.....

I think its a case of leverage with the drive shafts, the further out the wheel the more force (ft.lbs) applied to the spring so the lower the car will sit...

After 50 years my MK1 Vitesse has suffered the usual stripping of the threads in the engine block front alloy bridge piece. It has one forward facing hole for the timing chain cover and two underneath for the sump and all three had lost their 5/16" UNF threads resulting in substantial oil leaks. Well I can now confirm that its possible to retap all of them M10 without removing the bridge piece or engine although access in situ isnt good. The sump holes are the easiest and if completely stripped can be tapped directly as the hole size is perfect otherwise they should be drilled out to 8mm. However note that the other end of the hole is open so aluminium swarf could go into the sump and its best to procede slowly and allow any debris to fall back out of the holes. The front hole is more difficult as the radiator and crank pulley have to be removed but then it too can be done taking great care to get the tap aligned correctly. This hole is blind so theres no swarf risk but obviously can only be drilled/tapped to a certain point - I only went far enough to allow the new bolt to fully enter as the casting is relatively thin in this area. The replacement M10 x 20mm bolts must be allen socket cap heads as only these have heads small enough to fit in the flanges of the sump and timing cover but this thread is much more substantial so allows the joints to be fully tightened without risk. Finally I used spring washers on all the bolts plus PTFE tape on the sump ones to stop any oil seeping down the threads from the open ends in the sump.

one thing: as I understand it lbf/inch at the wheel is the weight needed, with the spring clamped rigidly in the middle, to cause an inch of deflection on one side only. This value is doubled if you want to place the spring on flat ground and put weight in the middle of it to give the same inch of movement.....

good to know thanks, I might have a go at that one day.....

out of interest how long did it take to do each bore and whats the procedure?

Thanks yes I didnt think I was going to get a response on the other forum so tried on here and have now had answers on both which fortunately agree! It looks like the car battery is used for the return from the spark plugs and I wonder if thats why many years ago vehicle electrics changed over to -ve earth....

Can anyone tell me how the ignition HT circuit is completed? I want to understand the route the spark takes to return to the secondary circuit in the coil after jumping the spark plug gap. It appears it doesnt return via the coil casing but through its 12v +ve terminal as this is connected internally to both the primary AND secondary windings!!!!!

I can get my Stromberg mixture adjustment pretty good using the test plunger on each carb but also I know when my 6 is too lean as it hesitates slightly when driving. If it does that then a couple of flats richer on each one cures it.....

Have a look at the rest of the car: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-VITESSE-MK-2-CONVERTIBLE-2-5-LITRE-1969-FOR-RESTORATION-COLLECT-LONDON/192860778345?hash=item2ce765ef69:g:~qUAAOSwX2JcjkCk

How about something like this lovely Vitesse on fleabay at the moment

I believe it should have suspension mods as well to ensure it sits and rides correctly. The rover engine reportedly weighs quite a bit less than the original

Those needles are probably from the laygear and could have fallen out during the last gearbox rebuild. If they look in good condition thats almost certainly whats happened and its easily done when putting the assembly back into place.....

Its likely to run down the operating rod onto the release bearing arm where it could go down onto the bearing carrier. However here I cant see it going any further to contaminate the friction plate as it'll drip off the carrier into the inside of the bellhousing and out through its bottom drain hole.

Heres one and yes if you go mad with long bolts they will come up against the main bearing cap. Otherwise its a good idea to use as much of the threads as possible and Ive used sealing washers cos I was getting oil coming down the open threads....

As I said in a parallel thread the front alloy bridge at least has open ended sump holes so there is a bit of spare room and maybe the longer bolts go in there. Certainly seems strange you have 4 longer ones and 4 holes into the alloy bridges plus with aluminium you do want to use as much of the thread as possible.....

I believe the sump threaded holes in the alloy bridge are actually open ended so will accept longer bolts (within limits). I realised this after tapping them to M10 in situ when any swarf produced must have gone into the sump, doh! Now I have sealing washers under the heads of the new allen bolts to stop oil leaking down the threads....