johny
-
Posts
6,759 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
36
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Everything posted by johny
-
I think this thread a little while ago was about a very similar problem: 'Rear swing spring conversion dangerous due to camber?'
-
Im no expert but I believe using a lowering block has some implications: suspension travel is reduced so theres greater risk of bottoming out rear wheel toe in and camber is increased which along with the lowering of the rear of the car reduces oversteer/increases understeer the thickest blocks (1"?) will require the use of longer fixing studs
-
I think the strobe should light up at same timing mark on number 4 as on 1 then. If the dizzy shaft doesnt have much play I cant see anything else wrong with it would explain the erratic idle sparking (that doesnt discount the points, cap and leads etc) so dont think you should replace it or get electronic ignition yet. I would sort this issue out first before introducing more variables. Fuel mixture will of course cause poor running but the spark should still be pretty regular because the crank and flywheel have a lot of inertia that help to smooth out any misfires.
-
I take it idles pretty roughly then! You could try the timing light on other spark leads especially the one that fires at the same point as number 1 to see if they are erratic as well....
-
Ha mine was what appears to be the normal weld used to attach the rear bracket to my stainless system. It rusted through and luckily broke at slow speed so not too much damage done!
-
Dolly 1850 single rail gearbox in to mk3 GT6
johny replied to Graham C's topic in Gearbox & Overdrive
Looks like the end of the saga is in sight but I dont think I'll be going down the same route anytime soon! Going back to the question of the tube I think you did the right thing sealing it as Im not sure the gearlever rod has o-rings as was suggested. It looks like it just runs through holes in the ends of the main casing with no form of sealing..... -
Really what you need is an oil testing service! You send them a sample and they can check its level of degradation and contamination including which metals are present to let you know what components are wearing. Complete peace of mind and it cant be that expensive, can it?
-
Agree especially as our oils are usually subjected to much more contamination from fuel and combustion products than a modern engine and which no filter or oil, no matter how good they are, will protect against.
-
yes apparently its the smoothness of the surface finishes that comes into it as well. Now that these are machined smoother compared with the old days surfaces can run closer together without the microscopic peaks coming into contact so clearances can be smaller and oil films thinner. Rougher surfaces have to be held further apart so a thicker oil film is needed and this is achieved by using a higher viscosity oil....
-
GT6 diff/gearbox oil specs and recommended brand(s)
johny replied to richhl's topic in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
think its like engine oils (eg 20/50) as its got the viscosity of an 80 when cold and a 90 when hot rather than having the temperature/viscosity curve of a monograde..... -
its the internals that are the important bit and its always a gamble but at 20 quid you want a new box? You can pay a lot more and have no more guarantee other than its been cleaned on the outside.....
-
If anyone is interested theres what I believe to be an 1850 3 rail gearbox (unfortunately non OD) for sale used on ebay in Bideford. Its listed as a 'Triumph Herald gearbox' and has failed to sell at 20 pounds previously but is collection only. I think its is the same as a late GT6 type and by changing the bell housing can be used directly in any GT6 or Vitesse 2L giving the benefits (and this has to be confirmed) of the later quieter gears and larger synchro rings. Im nothing to do with the seller but it might do someone else a turn as unfortunately its too far for me......
-
+1 for new cheapy Landy m/c although I used mine to replace the brake one and yes does give more pedal pressure👍 Gave up on rebuilding old one.....
-
must have been tea time on the production line!
-
John, first lets confirm once and for all if yours is a ballasted system: measure the voltage to earth at the +ve side of the coil with the ignition on, engine off and points closed.
-
And I thought mine was a rant!🤣
-
you need a strobe to check the dizzy operation so that, with the vacuum pipe disconnected, when reving you should see the timing advance from the action of the weights (I think the WSM even has the correct advance at various revs). Also as Pete says a partially working fuel pump can produce fuel starvation when theres high demand and the only way Ive found of testing its two non return valves is by reversing blowing through each of them individually.....
-
What was the actual problem in the end Colin?
-
I took it the misfire was when driving in which case one test I always do is pull out the choke slightly when the engine does it. This is to discount the possibility thats its fuel related as weak mixture can cause symptoms similar to yours.....
-
so to recap, it ran ok to start with so you put a new coil on and it random misfired? You then put the old coil back and changed the plugs and it now misfire at high revs? If so its now pointing to a problem with the plugs or you disturbed something with the ignition leads when changing plugs/coil. I would go back to the old plugs and have a close check of the leads and dizzy cap.....
-
well I think I might have been another victim of false news as I cant find any mention anywhere of plans for the UK to have centralised, government operated MOT testing stations so I take my rant back🤐
-
I suppose you have to ask yourself Bob how much hassle in the past has normal brake fluid been in terms of bleeding the brakes and paint damage from leaks/spills....
-
Yes luckily my Vit won't start from cold without choke even in summer so I can spin it for as long as I like👍
-
Still worth checking them isn't it? If they do loosen off it doesn't help keep these boxes dry.....
-
I'd also add checking the tightness of all the gearbox bolts as mine always seem to be loose. I should probably replace all the spring washers to stop this happening....
