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johny

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Everything posted by johny

  1. johny
    I think some moderns still come with jacks and for those that dont its more because they dont have a spare wheel in an effort to save weight, costs and fuel. However its true these jacks are not the safest of tools and great care is needed using them to change a wheel especially as its usually done under awkward circumstances (by the roadside, in the dark, on uneven surfaces?). I always keep the spare wheel under the car while jacking so if the worst happens theres something to stop it crashing onto the ground.....
  2. johny
    Ive always found bottle jacks to have a very limited travel so for our cars with the swing axles there can be a problem getting the rear wheels off the ground.....
  3. johny
    Certainly dont think an oil change would be a bad idea.....
  4. johny
    Doesnt the OD get held in by hydraulic pressure that is directed to its operating mechanism by the solenoid valve? The required oil pressure is only produced when the car is driving along so if its engaged with the car stationary I would have thought theres a major problem with the OD internals.....
  5. johny
    Maybe the tickover has been set too low and then when the engine gets hotter it drops further, as it normally does. to a point where it stalls. Once the engine is up to temperature the tickover should be between 800 - 900rpm. Is it worth returning to the professional with the problem?
  6. johny
    Hi, you need to tell us a bit more about the model of GT6, year and carbs fitted. A photo of the engine and its carbs might also be useful....
  7. johny
    I can confirm that the SX1000 was labelled Inductive Discharge and the SX2000 Reactive Discharge but the SX4000 is just a common or garden electronic points system and hence its cheapness. I think I fancy the SX5000 with built in adjustable rev limiter....
  8. johny
    I think the idea with these systems, inductive and capacitive, was that power was stored up in the bit of kit (SX1000 or 2000) to be discharged through the coil when triggered by the points so giving a better spark. They actually changed the way the coil was being used from inducting the spark due to collapsing its magnetic field by cutting the current flow through the points to inducting it by a rapid discharge of current through it. Anyway the idea seemed to fall out of favour (not sure if Pertonix still use it though) and we went back to the original simpler/cheaper arrangement but with electronics used to cut the flow of current rather than points (SX4000, Lumenition and Accuspark etc).
  9. johny
    Ive heard it called knocking, pinging and pinking (think the last one is just a derivation of the previous) and theyre just names that try to describe the noise it produces. Our engines will always do it at some point and its perfectly acceptable as long as its not excessive. The criteria I use is that in 4th gear on the flat if I floor the accelerator the engine will pink (rattling/tinkling that sounds quite mechanical) until I reach 2000rpm when it should stop. If its produced at any other time somethings wrong and you risk damaging the engine so, as I say, if everthing else is correct with the engine the two options are to increase fuel octane or reduce timing advance.
  10. johny
    The great thing on here is that you usually get loads of answers and if they all agree you can be 99.999999% sure its right😂
  11. johny
    For a dog I think its got to be a GT6 as the 'boot' area would suit a small to medium sized one. I certainly used to get a mate in there many moons ago, laying on the flat area, but even I wouldnt have put him in the boot of a Spitfire😲
  12. johny
    If I remember right your hesitancy was produced at higher speeds whereas knocking/pinking tends to be worst when accelerating at low revs in a high gear. I think its a really noticeable sound but some people seem to find it hard to diagnose perhaps mistaking it for something mechanical.....
  13. johny
    Result! Cant explain exactly why too advanced did that except the timing is set up so that the explosion starts before TDC and allows enough time for the combustion to produce the maximum pressure just at the right moment ie. after TDC. If you now have pinking (knocking) the mixture is igniting in another area of the combustion chamber because its too explosive and being set off by the pressure wave from the initial spark induced ignition. The best solution is to decrease the ignitability of the fuel by increasing its octane or a poorer alternative is to reduce the advance of the igntion timing....
  14. johny
    +1 for VSPe which I found reduced run on and pinking although now that I have the engine running cooler both have improved a lot just on standard 95 and I save the additive for longer, higher speed runs.
  15. johny
    Hi Craig, great choice of car but you do need to be fairly nimble getting in and out of them😂 Unfortunately the price of these, especially with the desirable overdrive, has shot up just recently so be prepared to pay a considerable sum if you want a restored one. They are now getting close to some TR6 prices which seem to have fallen back possibly due to an influx of ex USA models. Let us know what your plan is as you'll certainly get loads of tips and info on here....
  16. johny
    Maybe theres a bit more movement than on my diff but the noise is certainly very similar. I too had oil leaking from the front seal but cleaned out the vent jiggle pin and luckily its now not longer worth worrying about👍
  17. johny
    I know its a pain but if it hasnt been done recently I would also recommend a compression and valve tappets adjustment check so that they can be discounted.....
  18. johny
    I see in the original post the timing is 'set 2 - 3 degrees more advanced than the white line' and I wonder why this is? Presumibly the white line was marked by the previous owner to indicate the standard timing position to use a strobe and if correct I cant see that it should ever be set more advanced than that. Normally you set the timing to this point and then retard it progressively to get any knocking to an acceptable level....
  19. johny
    The gear levers seem to be hard to come by but do come up on ebay from time to time but obviously arent cheap. Why not try some experimenting with the clutch before replacing everything. You can also check under the master cylinder rubber covers for a leak and then carefully watch the level in the reservoir while an assistant presses the pedal (if it increases at all then the mc has a problem).....
  20. johny
    yes keep on knocking them down - remember its all part of the fun and one day will give you stories to bore the grandkids with🤣
  21. johny
    only one pump for all Heralds at 16 pounds from Paddock or repair kit 8.75. VAT and postage on top....
  22. johny
    A clutch thats not disengaging fully is certainly something which could produce symptoms like yours although I would expect it to give problems in all gears especially 1st when stationary. Theyre not adjustable but obviously you should check the clutch reservoir fluid level if you havent already done that and also try pumping the clutch pedal a few times quickly before selecting or disengaging a gear. Its possible you have a seal in the system thats not doing its job properly (getting worse with use/temperature) and by pumping you can temporarily get sufficient pressure for the clutch to separate enough to allow the gear change. Let us know if this works and if not we'll have a think as to what else it could be.....
  23. johny
    theres two in each mechanical pump, both of which have to seal well and they come in the repair kits but are a bit fiddly to change. You can test them individually by removing the pump filter cover then blowing back through the outlet pipe and next sucking on the inlet. In neither case should air flow but I bet in yours as in mine it will so the easiest option for me was a replacement pump which has worked perfectly although Ive seen recent posts complaining that some produce too much pressure.....
  24. johny
    That sounds perfectly normal although the drain back on the engine side should only reach the same point in the fuel line as the level in the tank. It happens because the carb float chamber has a vent to atmosphere through the air filter which allows air out when filling the chamber plus overflow if the float valve doesnt close properly. I dont think a tap in the line is necessary as if the non return valves in the fuel pump are good it should quickly refill the carbs but its true a higher level in the tank will help....
  25. johny
    believe the flinger is very easy to move and in some cases has opened up so much it wont stay put. If youve got everything else right just tap it along evenly up to the housing....
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