johny

Maybe I need to spend a bit more on QH items - at least the price difference isnt as great as with u/js and presumibly theyll last longer?

Right now that we've sorted out the u/js can we move on to manufacturers of top ball joints with internals that arent made of cheese?

I always think counterfeits are only worth making (including all the packaging etc) when its an item with some value AND in high demand. I just cant see it being worthwhile in China or India going to all the trouble of copying something like our u/js just to sell a few of them. Of course I believe sometimes its the actual factory making the originals that makes a few more to sell off on the cheap but in that case your probably getting a bargain!

Looking good Clive, just one last thing and I'll be satisfied as Im not quite as suspicious as Badwolf! Are they the bigger diameter under the caps?

Yes please Clive as its one thing paying more for a better quality item and another when you pay more for the same quality one! I suspect that GKN have stopped manufacturing the HD version of this u/j so apart from old stock now the standard one (which may be fine for our needs) will have to be used by all......

it gets worse as the GKN website says a U050 (as Colin's pic) is the correct u/j for TVF100000 whereas the HD item is U049 and that doesnt appear in the catalogue.... Need to check that the ebay item picture is actually whats supplied as theres usually a disclaimer somewhere that says 'photo for representation purposes only'.

And the warranty on the 4 pound one is 2 years as opposed to 1 on the genuine. Although how the warranty works I dont know....

hmmm looking at the LRDirect site now and the Land Rover items are 100 pounds each so maybe I will stick with the cheapies....

Great news Charlie. One question: what pipe did you use as there are problems with some new rubber not being able to handle the ethanol content of petrol supplied these days, in fact it might have been the reason the original pipe failed......

hey someone has deleted a critical word out of the quote from my post! Im going to speak to my lawyers....

well first have a good look round the engine and try to identify where the smell is strongest. Run your hands along the fuel lines right from the fuel pump (LH side) round to the carbs (RH side) and under the carbs themselves to try to find liquid fuel (trouble is a small leak evaporates quickly so doesnt leave a damp patch). My carbs (strombergs) overflow into the airfilter box so unless it drips out the bottom its not easy to see but your carbs might be different and Im not sure where the overflow is....

Strange as I use a syringe + plastic pipe and even that has enough pressure although I do poke a fine wire in the grease nipple beforehand to ensure the ball is well freed up....

its true anyone taking u/js out just to grease them has probably got too much spare time on their hands and needs a wife (or husband of course)🤣

well mine was definitely fuel onto engine, no doubts, but its so embarrassing that I dont want to go into details😬 Now I wouldnt drive any car that had an unexplained strong smell of petrol.....

Not joking Doug, self ignition temp of petrol is 250+deg and that's quite possible apart from sparks! I had a Maestro go up very easily from a split petrol pipe....

Hi, this is something you need to look at urgently as leaking fuel is not good. Could be a fuel pipe or a carb float sticking so that the carb overflows (in this case I would have thought the car wouldnt run very well) but either way it could be near the exhaust manifold or other ignition source....

of course greasing isnt just about lubrication as its also helps keep contaminants out of bearings by pushing it back out of seals and leaving a good barrier against its re-entry👍

It is worth investigating all possibilities but I must admit Ive never heard pinking when just reving an engine at standstill - its normally under load like a hill or hard acceleration that it presents itself and then I think its more of a tinkling sound than a rumble.....

let us know what you find as its common problem....

have you got a g clamp big enough to try compressing a u/j on its cups to see if a feeler gauge will then go in?

True, its a difficult call as I think underneath is quicker but certainly more hassle and easier to cock up, for example the front seal block needs a bit of care or it'll leak afterwards....

I think it depends on laden or unladen however I know more toe out increases oversteer which our cars do not need....

Yes although Ive only done a 6 from underneath I believe the 4 is very similar. Obviously you can check the play beforehand but even if its within spec its worth having a look at the thrusts as I found mine pitted for some unexplained reason. Your biggest problem working from underneath, apart from access, is keeping everything clean and this is essential.....

yes Dave the dynamo is earthed through the engine block and its earth lead. When you touch the +ve to the small terminal of the field coils a current will flow through them to earth so producing a magnetic field. This leaves a enough residual magnetism so that when the armature is spun it can produce a small amount of current which is fed back to the field winding via the contacts in the voltage regulator box. The magnetic field increases so the armature makes more current and so on until the output voltage supplied to the reg. is greater than the system voltage and it can be connected to recharge the battery.

I would minimise running of the engine now as theres a risk of metal to metal contact on the crank which means it would need a regrind whereas at the moment you should be able to get away with just replacement std bearings. Of course really the crank needs to be accurately measured for ovality because the new bearings wont last long if the crank isnt within spec. Also while the engine is open its worth checking the condition of the oil pump and crank thrust bearing.....