johny

Yes the bulb holders pull out of the back of the speedo and you also have to undo the drive cable. There might also be a trip meter reset cable and voltage regulator to disconnect plus earth wires on the fixing studs. Take a photo where everything is if you can...

Yes a single rail OD box will be 4 inches longer than a 3 rail non OD so a Spitfire 1500 non OD 37 inch prop should be the right one...

Single rail and 3 rail levers are not interchangeable. In both cases the OD version has a hole drilled length ways from the end with an exit hole a short distance down so the wiring can get to the knob switch. In all other respects OD and non OD are the same so if you want a remote switch the latter will work and is easier/cheaper to source like this 1500 Spitfire one on ebay...

However if as Pete said earlier the bezel is really well stuck then yes the tabs have to prised back but very carefully as they can break off...

erm no prising bezels, it rotates (if not well stuck on) until its tabs (these made need loosening a little) disengage with the main case and it lifts off. Then its the reverse to put back on. All shown in the videos👍

Needs to be a light oil and any Wd 40 type spray will do although as I say you dont want to get it everywhere so possibly spray some into a cap and then run it into the bearings on a thin screwdriver?

Plenty of good videos online of dismantling Smiths instruments👍

The complete unit has to come out from the front of the dash once the rear clamps are undone and wiring/cable disconnected. Then the bezel and glass removed so that when the retaining screws in the back of the case are undone the internals including dial etc just lift out. Thats it though and there shouldnt be any more dismantling necessary...

Unfortunately unless theyve been replaced the rubber seals around the glass will almost certainly be in a bad state and need replacing. In fact they can have gone so sticky that the bezel/glass becomes difficult to remove! There are kits available on ebay and elsewhere with the different seals.. Access to the internals is pretty easy once the speedo is disassembled so have a good look at all the springs and components to make sure theyre ok. Dont get oil on the face and treat that very gently as by now its paint can flake off☹️

not one of these is it?

Its a hell of a lot of wear and I wonder if a PO drove with his hand pushing on the gearlever all the time, either that or drove backwards a lot😁

Yes that sounds right. I dont know if keys are still available but I think I can see the necessary number stamped on the square shaft in the first pic...

Oh it could be an off centre pin you have to knock out. You can just see it in this pic to the bottom left of the square hole halfway along the assembly...

You need to get the handle to this stage and then I think theres a spring loaded latch that holds the barrel in place...

Interesting, what washer did you use?

I believe the valves are in the upper body so these need to be checked in any replacement....

Which method did you use to unscrew the trunnion? Theres another thread on here about stub axle changing that might be of interest...

Yes connected to a convenient fastener will be fine as its low current (relay coil). The gearbox is well earthed through the engine front earth strap which is sufficient for the much higher current flow from the OD solenoid👍

I think when I do mine if the rubber seal is too thick I'll look for some o-ring cord just slightly thicker than the top hat rim and make a seal from that...

Think all have the washer to have a nice flat face for the outer dust seal to sit against but maybe the distance between them was changed as theres been reports of some being tighter than others. As I say think I read that initially the sealing wasnt good enough so Triumph opted to squeeze the rubber between two dust seals...

Some people have found it tight to get both inner and outer dust seals in place so the old method would give a bit more room. Also I cant see how one width of rubber seal works perfectly for both set ups so the one in the kit might, as you found, really be too wide for use with double dust seals...

Ah that might be why theres a deeper inner dust seal in the kit to suit the earlier arrangement shown in Jon's manual...

Try Chic Doig John...

Is that with Jims credit card hook suggestion? Suppose its a balance between finding something flexible enough to go in to the right position but then rigid enough to be able to operate the catch... Another possibility is to drill a small hole in the middle, bottom of the glovebox and then feeding a length of thick wire with a right bend at the end. Get this into position on top of the catch and pull down to release it from the latch (again while pushing on the door). Plug the hole later with a grommet or similar...

Not sure what paint I used now but nothing special and the transfers were definitely water slide....